Front suspension?

[CIP57_imp]

It seems there's binding in the triples, it's a very easy adjustment. I don't have my shop manual so we need someone to chime in here. You need to loosen the triple to relax the forks and get them back into alignment. If i remember correctly you also have to loosen the bolts on the wheel.

I have a shop manual, but it's over at my other garage, so can't refer to it right away. If you have a minute, would you mind explaining for the suspension illiterate (i.e., myself) the relationship between the binding you're talking about and the fork compression?

I have a shop manual, but it's over at my other garage, so can't refer to it right away. If you have a minute, would you mind explaining for the suspension illiterate (i.e., myself) the relationship between the binding you're talking about and the fork compression?
Sure, when the bike comes from the factory both fork tubes are in alignment through the upper and lower (brackets) triple trees. My guess is that when the bike was dropped against the wall one of the two fork tubes twisted therefore causing a binding. When this happens they work against themselves and would cause the problem your having. You just need to relax the front end ( loosen everything up )and with compression strokes like you just did will put the front end back into alignment.

[pechorin75_imp]

Interesting...thanks for the explanation. I'm relieved that it's just a problem with my bike, and not a characteristic of the CB in general! I'll grab my shop manual a bit later and have a look.

[CIP57_imp]

Put bike on the center-stand. Loosen the lower triple on both sides (see photo) and the two bolts (see photo ) both sides. I would also loosen the axle bolt two turns not sure if this is necessary. Take the bike off center-stand and with force compress the shocks. See if the reading now comes closer to ferrets at about 2 3/4 with compression backed out to four lines showing. If all is well put bike back on center-stand tighten everything up with a torque wrench to spec. I believe you tighten all the bolts before the axle bolt, refer to manual.

[Red Mist_imp]

Remember to work safely and don't do anything beyond your skill level. Leave those jobs to a qualified mechanic!

That said (you've been warned), the quick and dirty way is to leave the top triple clamp bolts torqued, and then (after lifting the front of the bike off the ground with a suitable stand or jack) to loosen the front axle and lower pinch bolts on the triple clamps. This will hopefully relieve any gross tension but it's not really doing it up right.

To really be sure everything is as it should be, you should disassemble the entire front fork assembly. A few of us have done this, which is necessary in order to change the fork oil. By doing the whole shebang you're ensuring it's right.

You'd basically be removing the handlebars and front wheel, along with the brake calipers, to have both fork tubes unencumbered. You'll need a good stand or jack to lift the front end free of the floor, of course. Once both tubes are freed up, you'll be wanting to loosen the bolts on the upper and lower triple clamps (so named because they clamp the two fork tubes to the steering stem, 1,2,3). Slide each fork out of its side of the clamp and inspect it, clean it, and reinstall. Make sure when you slide it back into the clamps that it slides freely with no binding. Also be certain to get those forks aligned to the same height as they were, so take note of this by inspecting the top of the triples for an indexing reference before you remove them.

Reassemble by indexing the fork tube to the correct height, with enough torque on the bolts to hold it in place as you fine-tune it (a buddy can be helpful here). Then torque those pinch bolts to the correct specification (don't guess on this!). Get the specs from your dealer or maybe someone here has 'em.

Reinstall the front wheel and brake calipers. You'll need four new caliper bolts, that will run ya about 20 bucks, but better do it the right way.

You do this right, that front end should be stiction-free and nice and smooth. Set your preload and you should be good to go.

[lola_imp]

preload does not change fork travel. that is why you still have the same findings.

[pechorin75_imp]

So it sounds to me like CIP57 is describing basically the same "quick and dirty" method you discuss, Red Mist--right?

I'm inclined to go the full monty and take it all apart. That said, I need to ponder whether I really want to attempt it myself. I'm reasonably mechanically inclined, and have a fair bit of experience working on engines and carbs, but suspension stuff is uncharted territory.

Thanks for the detailed info, by the way.

[CIP57_imp]

Red Mist is correct, do not touch the upper triple unless you have the equipment and knowledge to disassemble the front end, having said that try the so called dirty way i have explained. If the bike just leaned over in the garage it my solve your problem. They usually don't move in the upper triple unless something is bent.

[Red Mist_imp]

So it sounds to me like CIP57 is describing basically the same "quick and dirty" method you discuss, Red Mist--right?

I'm inclined to go the full monty and take it all apart. That said, I need to ponder whether I really want to attempt it myself. I'm reasonably mechanically inclined, and have a fair bit of experience working on engines and carbs, but suspension stuff is uncharted territory.

Thanks for the detailed info, by the way.

Right!

[air charlie_imp]

You might want to try MORE. preload. When the forks settle too much under your weight the forks ride to low and the compression valving from the fork fluid will make the forks feel harsh. Try increasing the preload to the second mark and see if that helps. We are about the same weight and that has worked for me.

[the Ferret]

Ran over to my brothers to watch the MotoGP race, but while driving I remember there was something different about my 12 DLX's forks than the 13s forks. Um, springs and fluid levels maybe?

wonder if someone with another 13 could check for Pechorin.