Handlebar control symmetry

[Uncle Sixer]

So I was meticulously checking the alignment/spacing/etc of everything on my handlebars...

Bar end weights, grips, clutch and brake lever mounts are all symmetrical.... and the control housings for turn signals/horn and starter/kill switch are not symmetrical.

I wish that kind of stuff didn't bother me, but the 1/4 inch of white throttle control tube showing stands out like a sore thumb (and was the reason I started measuring so obsessively) and now that I know, I find it pretty annoying.

Since the control housings are pinned I am trying to figure what the most practical solution is (and at the same time I am thinking about going to a slightly thicker set of grips that might absorb more buzziness than the hard stock grips).

Anybody know approx size of the pin holes in the bars?  I am thinking of drilling an additional hole 1/4 inch further, but not if it would significantly weaken the handlebar.

Just use some end-cutters to cut the pin off and then mount the housing where I want it nice and snug?

Either way, I assume part of the problem is that the throttle tube is 1/4 inch too long as well, right?

If I am being dumb and missing something, let me know.

[pekingduck]

In what way are the left and right control housings not symmetrical?   Distance to their respective master cylinders?  Or rotationally?

The white of the throttle pipe shows because grips are usually 120mm or 130mm long, and those are shorter aftermarket ones.

The pins are about 4mm diameter, but I would avoid cutting them because they are truly necessary to prevent rotating the switch in actual use - the screws won't tighten the housing enough to prevent rotation.  It's perfectly safe to drill new locating holes.

[Cormanus]

The gap between the throttle grip and the switch housing on my bike was bigger than the gap between the left grip and the switch housing. One very hot day when I was a long way from home, I gave it a mighty twist to move it in a bit and managed to break one of the throttle cables. I live with it now.

[Uncle Sixer]

In what way are the left and right control housings not symmetrical?   Distance to their respective master cylinders?  Or rotationally?

The white of the throttle pipe shows because grips are usually 120mm or 130mm long, and those are shorter aftermarket ones.

The pins are about 4mm diameter, but I would avoid cutting them because they are truly necessary to prevent rotating the switch in actual use - the screws won't tighten the housing enough to prevent rotation.  It's perfectly safe to drill new locating holes.

Side-to-side symmetry... 

left side: between control housing and clutch lever mount there is more space and grip is snug to controls.

right side: 1/4 inch less space cont housing to brake lever mount and gap between grip and controls


I assumed the grips were stock, but I believe you now that I am looking at them again, but they do measure just a hair over 5 inches end-to-end (closer to 130mm than 120)

---

The gap between the throttle grip and the switch housing on my bike was bigger than the gap between the left grip and the switch housing. One very hot day when I was a long way from home, I gave it a mighty twist to move it in a bit and managed to break one of the throttle cables. I live with it now.

Wow, yeah, I don't need a problem like that!

[the Ferret]

If the rubber on the throttle tube contacts the housing like on the clutch side the throttle will hang up and not return.

[Uncle Sixer]

If the rubber on the throttle tube contacts the housing like on the clutch side the throttle will hang up and not return.

Well, I wouldn't try jamming it up "interference-tight"... but I just never saw that much gap there on any other bike.  And give-or-take a little wiggle room, that gap matches the 1/4 inch the controls are offset compared to other side...

But, for the sake of practicality for the remainder of summer, I think I may be able to live with it if I can get a wrap of electrical tape in the gap or maybe just go over the white plastic with some black sharpie.

[pekingduck]

On the left side, if the gap is too large between control housing and clutch lever mount, why not slide the clutch master cylinder outboard a bit to match.

I measured my right side gip, and it is about 125mm too.  I suspect the previous owner couldn't slide the grip inward enough on the white throttle tube, and the grip is overhanging the tube on the right.  Do you have pics of both bar weights to be sure they're stock too?  

[Uncle Sixer]

On the left side, if the gap is too large between control housing and clutch lever mount, why not slide the clutch master cylinder outboard a bit to match.

The clutch and brake lever mounts are already symmetrical, so I would rather not move either of them, but maybe I will split the difference just for the sake of my compulsion.

I measured my right side gip, and it is about 125mm too.  I suspect the previous owner couldn't slide the grip inward enough on the white throttle tube, and the grip is overhanging the tube on the right.  Do you have pics of both bar weights to be sure they're stock too?  

It really seems to me a combo of throttle tube 1/4 in too long and same controls pinned 1/4 inch too far inboard... but I have been wrong about things like that before.

I was looking at new grips and I have really liked ODI Rogue for my mountain bikes for many years... I see they make Rogue for MX as well... is it safe to assume MX grips are compatible with motorcycle handlebars?  Actually, I should just check with ODI directly I guess.

I will take pictures of bar ends later when I am doing some other wrenching (hoping to be plugging in a flashed ecu later today!!!)

[pekingduck]

On the left side, if the gap is too large between control housing and clutch lever mount, why not slide the clutch master cylinder outboard a bit to match.

The clutch and brake lever mounts are already symmetrical, so I would rather not move either of them, but maybe I will split the difference just for the sake of my compulsion.

I measured my right side gip, and it is about 125mm too.  I suspect the previous owner couldn't slide the grip inward enough on the white throttle tube, and the grip is overhanging the tube on the right.  Do you have pics of both bar weights to be sure they're stock too?  

It really seems to me a combo of throttle tube 1/4 in too long and same controls pinned 1/4 inch too far inboard... but I have been wrong about things like that before.

I was looking at new grips and I have really liked ODI Rogue for my mountain bikes for many years... I see they make Rogue for MX as well... is it safe to assume MX grips are compatible with motorcycle handlebars?  Actually, I should just check with ODI directly I guess.

I will take pictures of bar ends later when I am doing some other wrenching (hoping to be plugging in a flashed ecu later today!!!)

Well it's possible the installer of those grips couldn't slide the grip on far enough, and the outer end was overhanging the white throttle tube. In that case, the grip would rub against the bar end weight, and his solution was to move the right switch inboard, to add to his incompetence.

MX grips tend to be plugged on the ends, and cutting a nice clean hole in them isn't as simple as it seems.  Be sure they aren't too long or they will interfere with the bar end weights.

[Gone in 60]

I have a problem with handlebar asymmetry. On the Enfield and the Bonneville, the mirror mounting points are slightly different from right to left due to the other hardware on the same casting, like the mater cylinders. On the Enfield, one mirror is higher than the other. On the Triumph, one sits out further than the other. I know I can't do anything about it and don't let it get me down.