tps evaluating for ii issues

[Lord Popgun]

I use the same stuff my bikes too. And both Honda generators I have.

[dave]

Dave,

In the outboards I’ve seen with water in the fuel, and it happens to people ALL the time, one or more carbs don’t work and thus idle drops or engine stalls. My friend doesn’t do too many FI engines as he doesn’t have diagnostic tools computer testing or cleaning injectors.

If water is in the fuel for any length of time then it gunks up carbs or can mess up fuel injectors. I don’t know exactly how the injectors fail, he sends them to a dealer for that. That water, oil (2-stroke), fuel and alcohol really turns into a mess in an outboard carb. And on 4-stroke carbs can be bad enough to require replacement due to the extremely small ports they have. Even no water can mess them up if old fuel is left in them for a time.

Thank you popgun.

If anyone would like to see the video of my bike at low idle and stalling, just PM me your email address and I will fwd it to you. I am unable to upload anything on my computer right now. Where has Max been? I haven't seen a post from him in several days now!

[Lord Popgun]

He’s been waiting for you to do a hose experiment. I did some tests and sent the data to the ‘team’ and he is waiting for you.

[dave]

He’s been waiting for you to do a hose experiment. I did some tests and sent the data to the ‘team’ and he is waiting for you.

Thank you popgun - I will do this ASAP. Been working 11 hour days.

[max]

He’s been waiting for you to do a hose experiment. I did some tests and sent the data to the ‘team’ and he is waiting for you.

Thank you popgun - I will do this ASAP. Been working 11 hour days.

Thank you popgun - I will do this ASAP. Been working 11 hour days.
Thanks popgun and congrats on the instrument cluster case ( not leaving Cormanus out either, nice job ).

Interim update; the tps has mostly been dis proven pending a longer test by Dave at a later date, so now we move on to the iacv, the remaining but more difficult to access part on the throttle body and we have developed some tests to check for proper operation prior to changing the thing altogether.

Take your time Dave, better a good test than a quick one, the team is watching.

max

[Cormanus]

Place is beginning to feel like an episode of Sherlock.

[dave]

Hi team, new update: Rode the bike about 10 miles on city streets last night. The low idle condition is now rearing its ugly head more often, and stalling is now becoming more common. The bike initially started normally, and had the normal cold / high idle condition as a normally running CB1100 should have. As soon as the engine warmed up and the cold / high idle returned to a normal, 1,050 RPM idle (approximately 2 miles of riding) the low idle condition began, (this was at the third or fourth stoplight). At the third stoplight after the low idle condition began (700 RPM, slow return to 1.050 RPM) the engine stalled. I restarted it, and it stalled again. I restarted it again, and gently revved the engine (up to 3,000 RPM) several times to keep it running, and then let it return to idle, which was 700 RPM. The RPM slowly returned to 1,050 by itself, and then almost as if someone flipped a switch, it returned to 700 RPM by itself. At this time the light changed and I rode off. I reached my destination about ½ miles later without stopping and turned the engine off. I restarted it approximately a half hour later, rode it another 5 miles before turning it off again, and it ran fine. I restarted it approximately 1 ½ hours later and rode home, deliberately riding a route with more stops, and it ran fine all the way home.

I am planning to perform the EVAP hose disconnect test this weekend. My thoughts are to disconnect the two outer tubes as shown by MAX, and connecting two blocked-off tubes to the throttle body nipples in their place and taking the bike for a ride. What do you think of this Max?

[max]

This is interesting;
>> which was 700 RPM. The RPM slowly returned to 1,050 by itself, and then almost as if someone flipped a switch, it returned to 700 RPM by itself.<<

I can understand the slow return to 1050 idle but i have a hard time explaining the instant drop to 700 instantly, we know the bike wants a warm idle of 1050, so if it is in the happy spot why would it change it's mind? you are not running it on pure vodka and it's just drunk is it?

The test with the vacuum hoses is meant to test if the iacv is working as it should, what you are in fact doing is creating a vacuum leak and we want to know if the iacv is able to adjust back to 1050 if the skinny hoses are both disconnected.

this should be done with the engine warmed up and idling nornally at 1050 on the side stand.
1 pull off both hoses and watch the rpm's, there should be a slight change quickly followed by a corrective action by the iacv.
2 put both hoses back and see if the rpm changes again.

Second test should be done in the same 2 steps except this time with the low idle ( 700 ) in progress.

The theory is that in the low idle the iacv is closed too much and not enough air is presented to the engine, by pulling both hoses off you present more air to the engine and assist in raising the rpm.

Just follow pictures 1 and 2 , picture 3 is just to show the hose partially pulled off, but during the test all 4 openings should be allowed to suck in air

Don't do this; >>and connecting two blocked-off tubes to the throttle body nipples in their place and taking the bike for a ride.<<

cheers max

[dave]

you are not running it on pure vodka and it's just drunk is it?

I wish it was this easy!


this should be done with the engine warmed up and idling nornally at 1050 on the side stand.

1 pull off both hoses and watch the rpm's, there should be a slight change quickly followed by a corrective action by the iacv.
2 put both hoses back and see if the rpm changes again.

Second test should be done in the same 2 steps except this time with the low idle ( 700 ) in progress.

Thank you Max. I will perform this test Saturday. Hopefully I can perform it in both the normal idle (1,050 RPM) mode, and when it starts experiencing the low RPM idle. I will do my best and report back.

Thank you again Max.

[dave]

Update – EVAP hose removal test: Performed the EVAP hose removal test tonight. Bike started normally (normal cold engine, high RPM idle), and I rode around the neighborhood to warm the engine up. Mostly low speed, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear only. After about 6 miles the low (700 RPM, slow return to 1,050 RPM) idle returned, so I immediately went home to perform the test. As I was getting the bike up onto the center stand the idle crept back up to 1,050 RPM. I pulled both the EVAP hoses off simultaneously, and the idle did a very, very slight increase (maybe 50 RPM) for only an instant (almost unnoticeable) change, and returned to 1,050 RPM. I blipped the throttle several times, and each time it returned to 1,050 RPM. Just 60 seconds earlier, before the EVAP hoses were removed, the idle would drop to 700 RPM each time I blipped the throttle. I plugged both hoses back in simultaneously, and the RPM change was the opposite from when the hoses were removed - this time the RPM dipped slightly (maybe 50 RPM), but quickly returned to 1,050 RPM. I blipped the throttle several times, and each time the engine returned to 1,050 RPM. I found this very interesting, because before I removed the EVAP hoses the RPM would drop to 700 RPM each time I blipped the throttle, but now it was not doing this. I repeated this exact, identical process four times, and each time the results were identical. I would have liked to have ridden the bike again but it was getting late. I will ride the bike tomorrow and repeat this test, and also ride it after removing the EVAP hoses.