02-10-2018, 03:38 AM
Dave
I prefer top tier fuel, but it is not available on many of my remote rides.
Only 87 octane used. First street bike to use regular in a l o n g time.
We can have a discussion on regular versus premium, later.
For now, basically, premium/high octane no longer has better cleaning additives than regular
and premium fuel may actually contain less energy per unit volume than regular. Premium does have the potential for producing more power, if timing can be advanced (more burn time) to take advantage of the higher octane.
If you had water, it goes to the bottom of the tank as H2O is more dense than gasoline; and if it will run, it should burn off. The one time it happened to daughter 3#, her 92 Nissan Sentra barely made it home (from west Flagstaff to east Flagstaff, AZ) and I pumped out several gallons of water/gasoline.
On my 2016 Moto Guzzi V7II, one time I fueled at an ARCO (top tier) near home and as I pulled out of the station, it stumbled once (first thought was water, but this is a well trafficked station). I gave it throttle and it then ran fine.
I will pay the price to fuel at a more trafficked station than one with the cheapest price...reasoning that there is less chance of water in the fuel.
Maybe you had a some water, but doubt that is/was the issue.
On the Sportster forum, my focus was primarily on electrical, secondary on carb issues. I mention this so that you will understand that I do not easily dismiss electrical issues.
My concern remains a vacuum loss issue and a stuck/sticking purge valve is now at the top of my list. I do not want to sidetrack Max's tests with the smaller vacuum hoses, but I am very curious to know if blocking the vacuum hose from the purge valve to the throttle body assembly makes a difference. This test should be done on a fully warmed up engine.
I have little info on Honda's M/C system on the CB1100, but what I have been able to research indicates generally that
a. engine must be at operating temp
b. engine must be faster than idle speed
...for the ECM to operate the evap purge valve
You can google "purge valve stuck open for symptoms".
Here are a couple links:
https://www.samarins.com/glossary/purge-valve.html
https://cartreatments.com/vapor-canister-purge-valve/
The main point is that if a purge valve is stuck open, at idle, the engine runs rough/low idle. A small vacuum leak will likely cause a high idle. This could be a crack in a hose or fitting...or maybe the purge valve almost closed.
The CB1100 is electrical. Electric open, spring close. What I do not know is if the purge solenoid is variable position, in other words, is it 100% open/closed or does it partially open depending on ECM regulated voltage? Either way, if it is open at idle, there is a problem.
The basics, as best as I understand, are:
1. Charcoal canister absorbs fumes from fuel tank vent
2. Canister has a one way check valve to allow fresh air to enter canister when fumes are sucked out.
3. When purge valve operates, manifold vacuum sucks fumes from canister
This has been a week of aggravating distractions. In the emails with Max, Peter and Popgun, I have not been providing much, if any, input. I think, but not sure, that Max's tests are to prove out proper IACV operation. It seems well worth doing, but my thinking is to first prove or dismiss purge valve issues.
Hope to be back to regular posting by the end of next week. Will be off the grid Mon-Wed, but can see emails on wife's smart phone** at our Arizona ranch. Not a strong enough signal to log onto the Sportster forum and I have not tried on this forum.
**I use a flip phone, which I intended to modify with a .357 when I retired, but wife forbids that.
I prefer top tier fuel, but it is not available on many of my remote rides.
Only 87 octane used. First street bike to use regular in a l o n g time.
We can have a discussion on regular versus premium, later.
For now, basically, premium/high octane no longer has better cleaning additives than regular
and premium fuel may actually contain less energy per unit volume than regular. Premium does have the potential for producing more power, if timing can be advanced (more burn time) to take advantage of the higher octane.
If you had water, it goes to the bottom of the tank as H2O is more dense than gasoline; and if it will run, it should burn off. The one time it happened to daughter 3#, her 92 Nissan Sentra barely made it home (from west Flagstaff to east Flagstaff, AZ) and I pumped out several gallons of water/gasoline.
On my 2016 Moto Guzzi V7II, one time I fueled at an ARCO (top tier) near home and as I pulled out of the station, it stumbled once (first thought was water, but this is a well trafficked station). I gave it throttle and it then ran fine.
I will pay the price to fuel at a more trafficked station than one with the cheapest price...reasoning that there is less chance of water in the fuel.
Maybe you had a some water, but doubt that is/was the issue.
On the Sportster forum, my focus was primarily on electrical, secondary on carb issues. I mention this so that you will understand that I do not easily dismiss electrical issues.
My concern remains a vacuum loss issue and a stuck/sticking purge valve is now at the top of my list. I do not want to sidetrack Max's tests with the smaller vacuum hoses, but I am very curious to know if blocking the vacuum hose from the purge valve to the throttle body assembly makes a difference. This test should be done on a fully warmed up engine.
I have little info on Honda's M/C system on the CB1100, but what I have been able to research indicates generally that
a. engine must be at operating temp
b. engine must be faster than idle speed
...for the ECM to operate the evap purge valve
You can google "purge valve stuck open for symptoms".
Here are a couple links:
https://www.samarins.com/glossary/purge-valve.html
https://cartreatments.com/vapor-canister-purge-valve/
The main point is that if a purge valve is stuck open, at idle, the engine runs rough/low idle. A small vacuum leak will likely cause a high idle. This could be a crack in a hose or fitting...or maybe the purge valve almost closed.
The CB1100 is electrical. Electric open, spring close. What I do not know is if the purge solenoid is variable position, in other words, is it 100% open/closed or does it partially open depending on ECM regulated voltage? Either way, if it is open at idle, there is a problem.
The basics, as best as I understand, are:
1. Charcoal canister absorbs fumes from fuel tank vent
2. Canister has a one way check valve to allow fresh air to enter canister when fumes are sucked out.
3. When purge valve operates, manifold vacuum sucks fumes from canister
This has been a week of aggravating distractions. In the emails with Max, Peter and Popgun, I have not been providing much, if any, input. I think, but not sure, that Max's tests are to prove out proper IACV operation. It seems well worth doing, but my thinking is to first prove or dismiss purge valve issues.
Hope to be back to regular posting by the end of next week. Will be off the grid Mon-Wed, but can see emails on wife's smart phone** at our Arizona ranch. Not a strong enough signal to log onto the Sportster forum and I have not tried on this forum.
**I use a flip phone, which I intended to modify with a .357 when I retired, but wife forbids that.
