2014 Start - Cutoff Switch Question

[flynrider]

My 2014 CB1100 died this weekend while taking it out for a short test ride. I was coming up to a stop sign about 2.5 miles from my home when the engine died and would not restart. I had power, lights, etc, but it nothing happened when I hit the start switch. Couldn't hear the fuel pump come on when I turned the key.

I called a friend who suggested that the starter switch and or cutoff switch might have taken on moisture. (He knew that I have to store my bike outside under a cover during the winter.) He suggested holding down the starter switch while toggling the cutoff switch on and off. This technique may have worked because eventually I was able to get it started again. When I got the bike home, I sprayed the switches with WD-40. The battery checked out OK.

Wondering if anyone has had this experience and if so ... was it moisture in the switch? If that was the case, are there any other things I can do to guard against this. (Besides get a garage.: )

I had this problem a few years ago. Here's the thread :

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....t=stranded

The short version is that my kill switch was indeed the problem. When the shop disassembled and cleaned the contacts, they also applied some dielectric grease to the contacts. Dielectric grease is specifically made to prevent corrosion on switch contacts, so that's probably the best thing to use. I've had no issues with the switch since then.

The switch problem came as a surprise to me, as my bike is always kept in the garage (and I live in the dry desert). It also also rarely ridden in the rain. I know at least one other forum member has had the same issue with this switch.

Lastly, near the end of my thread above, I made a list of the symptoms that you'll see when the kill switch is activated and the key is turned on. It's for a '13, but I think it will also apply to the '14.

[GoldOxide_imp]

My 2014 CB1100 died this weekend while taking it out for a short test ride. I was coming up to a stop sign about 2.5 miles from my home when the engine died and would not restart. I had power, lights, etc, but it nothing happened when I hit the start switch. Couldn't hear the fuel pump come on when I turned the key.

I called a friend who suggested that the starter switch and or cutoff switch might have taken on moisture. (He knew that I have to store my bike outside under a cover during the winter.) He suggested holding down the starter switch while toggling the cutoff switch on and off. This technique may have worked because eventually I was able to get it started again. When I got the bike home, I sprayed the switches with WD-40. The battery checked out OK.

Wondering if anyone has had this experience and if so ... was it moisture in the switch? If that was the case, are there any other things I can do to guard against this. (Besides get a garage.: )

I had this problem a few years ago. Here's the thread :

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....t=stranded

The short version is that my kill switch was indeed the problem. When the shop disassembled and cleaned the contacts, they also applied some dielectric grease to the contacts. Dielectric grease is specifically made to prevent corrosion on switch contacts, so that's probably the best thing to use. I've had no issues with the switch since then.

The switch problem came as a surprise to me, as my bike is always kept in the garage (and I live in the dry desert). It also also rarely ridden in the rain. I know at least one other forum member has had the same issue with this switch.

Lastly, near the end of my thread above, I made a list of the symptoms that you'll see when the kill switch is activated and the key is turned on. It's for a '13, but I think it will also apply to the '14.

I had this problem a few years ago. Here's the thread :

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....t=stranded

The short version is that my kill switch was indeed the problem. When the shop disassembled and cleaned the contacts, they also applied some dielectric grease to the contacts. Dielectric grease is specifically made to prevent corrosion on switch contacts, so that's probably the best thing to use. I've had no issues with the switch since then.

The switch problem came as a surprise to me, as my bike is always kept in the garage (and I live in the dry desert). It also also rarely ridden in the rain. I know at least one other forum member has had the same issue with this switch. ...
I gotta think the real problem is water infiltration. Electro-greasing is not a bad practice, but it doesn't address the real issue. Motorcycle switch gear is engineered for all weather (e.g. rain) riding - or parking.

I reckon desert dust is another issue. Any infiltration would gum-up with any type of grease.

I've had some pretty sorry lookin', sun faded and micro-cracked switch gear that sat out in rain-after-rain and never failed. Associated wires, tubes and gaskets were always sound.

[deltamark]

Thank you for sharing this, Flynrider. Definitely sounds like the same issue. So, now I'm wondering how easily (or not) that switch comes apart, or if it's something I should take to my local service shop, who I trust very much.

My 2014 CB1100 died this weekend while taking it out for a short test ride. I was coming up to a stop sign about 2.5 miles from my home when the engine died and would not restart. I had power, lights, etc, but it nothing happened when I hit the start switch. Couldn't hear the fuel pump come on when I turned the key.

I called a friend who suggested that the starter switch and or cutoff switch might have taken on moisture. (He knew that I have to store my bike outside under a cover during the winter.) He suggested holding down the starter switch while toggling the cutoff switch on and off. This technique may have worked because eventually I was able to get it started again. When I got the bike home, I sprayed the switches with WD-40. The battery checked out OK.

Wondering if anyone has had this experience and if so ... was it moisture in the switch? If that was the case, are there any other things I can do to guard against this. (Besides get a garage.: )

I had this problem a few years ago. Here's the thread :

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....t=stranded

The short version is that my kill switch was indeed the problem. When the shop disassembled and cleaned the contacts, they also applied some dielectric grease to the contacts. Dielectric grease is specifically made to prevent corrosion on switch contacts, so that's probably the best thing to use. I've had no issues with the switch since then.

The switch problem came as a surprise to me, as my bike is always kept in the garage (and I live in the dry desert). It also also rarely ridden in the rain. I know at least one other forum member has had the same issue with this switch.

Lastly, near the end of my thread above, I made a list of the symptoms that you'll see when the kill switch is activated and the key is turned on. It's for a '13, but I think it will also apply to the '14.

I had this problem a few years ago. Here's the thread :

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....t=stranded

The short version is that my kill switch was indeed the problem. When the shop disassembled and cleaned the contacts, they also applied some dielectric grease to the contacts. Dielectric grease is specifically made to prevent corrosion on switch contacts, so that's probably the best thing to use. I've had no issues with the switch since then.

The switch problem came as a surprise to me, as my bike is always kept in the garage (and I live in the dry desert). It also also rarely ridden in the rain. I know at least one other forum member has had the same issue with this switch.

Lastly, near the end of my thread above, I made a list of the symptoms that you'll see when the kill switch is activated and the key is turned on. It's for a '13, but I think it will also apply to the '14.

[Bazbro_imp]

So... the moral of the story is that the kill-switch appears to be a potential weak point; it could do with being disassembled and serviced with dialectric grease and reassembled carefully? I shall certainly do this.

[GoldOxide_imp]

So... the moral of the story is that the kill-switch appears to be a potential weak point; it could do with being disassembled and serviced with dialectric grease and reassembled carefully? I shall certainly do this.

Try to find the source of the infiltration before switch disassembly. Otherwise, an opportunity to learn something might be lost. Subsequently, pay close attention to any water "staining" inside as you pull it apart. Also look for anything that might resemble a marginal short/opens in terms of possible other internal debris and/or assembly housing fractures.

One more thing to consider: Check the switch wiring. I once had an unpredictable failing Kill Engine switch but I could not find the root cause. I too thought it was a seal breach, but found no evidence. It turned out the root cause was of a marginal open in the kill switch circuit wire and it was located in the steering stock area where the wiring cluster can sometimes get fatigued from steering cycles. Uncommon, but was sensible in the end.

[Bazbro_imp]

So... the moral of the story is that the kill-switch appears to be a potential weak point; it could do with being disassembled and serviced with dialectric grease and reassembled carefully? I shall certainly do this.

Try to find the source of the infiltration before switch disassembly. Otherwise, an opportunity to learn something might be lost. Subsequently, pay close attention to any water "staining" inside as you pull it apart. Also look for anything that might resemble a marginal short/opens in terms of possible other internal debris and/or assembly housing fractures.

One more thing to consider: Check the switch wiring. I once had an unpredictable failing Kill Engine switch but I could not find the root cause. I too thought it was a seal breach, but found no evidence. It turned out the root cause was of a marginal open in the kill switch circuit wire and it was located in the steering stock area where the wiring cluster can sometimes get fatigued from steering cycles. Uncommon, but was sensible in the end.

Try to find the source of the infiltration before switch disassembly. Otherwise, an opportunity to learn something might be lost. Subsequently, pay close attention to any water "staining" inside as you pull it apart. Also look for anything that might resemble a marginal short/opens in terms of possible other internal debris and/or assembly housing fractures.

One more thing to consider: Check the switch wiring. I once had an unpredictable failing Kill Engine switch but I could not find the root cause. I too thought it was a seal breach, but found no evidence. It turned out the root cause was of a marginal open in the kill switch circuit wire and it was located in the steering stock area where the wiring cluster can sometimes get fatigued from steering cycles. Uncommon, but was sensible in the end.
. Great advice, GO.

[flynrider]

Thank you for sharing this, Flynrider. Definitely sounds like the same issue. So, now I'm wondering how easily (or not) that switch comes apart, or if it's something I should take to my local service shop, who I trust very much.

My 2014 CB1100 died this weekend while taking it out for a short test ride. I was coming up to a stop sign about 2.5 miles from my home when the engine died and would not restart. I had power, lights, etc, but it nothing happened when I hit the start switch. Couldn't hear the fuel pump come on when I turned the key.

I called a friend who suggested that the starter switch and or cutoff switch might have taken on moisture. (He knew that I have to store my bike outside under a cover during the winter.) He suggested holding down the starter switch while toggling the cutoff switch on and off. This technique may have worked because eventually I was able to get it started again. When I got the bike home, I sprayed the switches with WD-40. The battery checked out OK.

Wondering if anyone has had this experience and if so ... was it moisture in the switch? If that was the case, are there any other things I can do to guard against this. (Besides get a garage.: )

I had this problem a few years ago. Here's the thread :

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....t=stranded

The short version is that my kill switch was indeed the problem. When the shop disassembled and cleaned the contacts, they also applied some dielectric grease to the contacts. Dielectric grease is specifically made to prevent corrosion on switch contacts, so that's probably the best thing to use. I've had no issues with the switch since then.

The switch problem came as a surprise to me, as my bike is always kept in the garage (and I live in the dry desert). It also also rarely ridden in the rain. I know at least one other forum member has had the same issue with this switch.

Lastly, near the end of my thread above, I made a list of the symptoms that you'll see when the kill switch is activated and the key is turned on. It's for a '13, but I think it will also apply to the '14.

I had this problem a few years ago. Here's the thread :

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....t=stranded

The short version is that my kill switch was indeed the problem. When the shop disassembled and cleaned the contacts, they also applied some dielectric grease to the contacts. Dielectric grease is specifically made to prevent corrosion on switch contacts, so that's probably the best thing to use. I've had no issues with the switch since then.

The switch problem came as a surprise to me, as my bike is always kept in the garage (and I live in the dry desert). It also also rarely ridden in the rain. I know at least one other forum member has had the same issue with this switch.

Lastly, near the end of my thread above, I made a list of the symptoms that you'll see when the kill switch is activated and the key is turned on. It's for a '13, but I think it will also apply to the '14.

I was on the road without tools when mine malfunctioned, so I just let the shop do it. I don't think it's very complicated as the mechanic took less than 1/2 hr. to disassemble, clean, grease and reassemble.