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I know we've covered this before, but I wanted to add a little new information.
If you don't like the positioning of the horn/turn signal switch, you can do something about it
Honda had always put the turn signal switch above the horn button, until the last 7 years. After 40 years of riding Hondas, it's as instinctive to me as the shift pattern, and I can't get used to the horn above the turn signal.
The 2013 CB1100 had the "correct" pattern, and except for re-drilling the holes for the locating pins, is a bolt on for 2014 models. I also put a 2013 switch on my 2017, which required making an interim sub-harness that I explained in another thread. http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15089
With some late Honda models, I've tried some different things. I've used the NC700X DCT switch and rewired the down-shift button as a horn, (while retaining the original horn button too), as well as rewire the up-shift trigger as a high beam flasher.
On both a PCX150 scooter and a first generation Grom, I've had to add an additional horn button beneath the turn signal switch. I bought just the starter button portion of the switch off a PCX150 (35160-KYZ-901 SWITCH UNIT, STARTER) from Honda for $14. This has a hinged lever that presses on the contacts and has the right size and feel.
I first shortened the lever about 8-10mm and filed it smooth. I spliced wires from the original button to the switch. Then I flipped it over, and held it securely to the bottom of the switch with safety wire (or a zip-tie). I then used either black silicone sealant, or Suguru moldable glue to fill in any gaps or openings. As a final step, I put a dab of red paint to hide the starter symbol.
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Having the same pesky problem Pekingduck and i was looking at various handlebar switches too.
Don't want to interfere with your idea but just wanted to present another option, see what you think of it.
After some time it occurred to me that it only takes a fraction of a second to cancel the turn signals, so;
What if we had a delayed horn button?
The simplest way to do this is with a small pcb relay, a 330 ohm resistor and a 2200 uf capacitor across the coil of the relay ( my relay happened to be polarity sensitive, be aware ) the switch is pushed, the capacitor charges up and when it is at the 8 volt point it makes the contacts and sounds the horn, one horn draws 2 amps so 4 amps relay contacts would do it nicely.
So now i have over a second delay ( which is too long but it proves the point ) and i have not sounded the horn by mistake yet, the setup is plug and play and connects to the horn spade connectors ( 12v connector comes off, plugs into the delay and the other re-connects to the horn plus again, the negative 10 mA slips under the horn negative terminal and of course the whole thing can be removed quickly;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN5d8MERWj4
The horn test is at the end of the video at 3 minutes and it is installed on my cb1000r.
I rode the cb1100 today and beeped the horn 4 times, i need to make another delay for that one too, what a kerfuffle!
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I think that it makes more sense to have the indicator button close to your thumb as you (should !) use the indicator more often than the horn. For that reason I put the 2014 part on my 2013 , very easy to do.
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One of the first things I did was put the '13 switches on both sides of my '14- to make it look like it should have from the factory.
I cant stand that big ugly grey horn button.
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Put the 13 switch on my 14 dlx, and my 18 FJR has the same layout as the 13, so muscle memory works for both bikes.
I still blow the horn when turning on the 14 CB500X
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(09-19-2020, 02:09 PM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: I know we've covered this before, but I wanted to add a little new information.
If you don't like the positioning of the horn/turn signal switch, you can do something about it
Honda had always put the turn signal switch above the horn button, until the last 7 years. After 40 years of riding Hondas, it's as instinctive to me as the shift pattern, and I can't get used to the horn above the turn signal.
The 2013 CB1100 had the "correct" pattern, and except for re-drilling the holes for the locating pins, is a bolt on for 2014 models. I also put a 2013 switch on my 2017, which required making an interim sub-harness that I explained in another thread. http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15089
With some late Honda models, I've tried some different things. I've used the NC700X DCT switch and rewired the down-shift button as a horn, (while retaining the original horn button too), as well as rewire the up-shift trigger as a high beam flasher.
On both a PCX150 scooter and a first generation Grom, I've had to add an additional horn button beneath the turn signal switch. I bought just the starter button portion of the switch off a PCX150 (35160-KYZ-901 SWITCH UNIT, STARTER) from Honda for $14. This has a hinged lever that presses on the contacts and has the right size and feel.
I first shortened the lever about 8-10mm and filed it smooth. I spliced wires from the original button to the switch. Then I flipped it over, and held it securely to the bottom of the switch with safety wire (or a zip-tie). I then used either black silicone sealant, or Suguru moldable glue to fill in any gaps or openings. As a final step, I put a dab of red paint to hide the starter symbol.
Joe, this 2013 Honda PCX150 starter switch 35160-KYZ-901 is just the switch alone, so you made your own pig tail harness, correct?
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(09-19-2020, 05:06 PM)max_imp Wrote: Having the same pesky problem Pekingduck and i was looking at various handlebar switches too.
Don't want to interfere with your idea but just wanted to present another option, see what you think of it.
After some time it occurred to me that it only takes a fraction of a second to cancel the turn signals, so;
What if we had a delayed horn button?
The simplest way to do this is with a small pcb relay, a 330 ohm resistor and a 2200 uf capacitor across the coil of the relay ( my relay happened to be polarity sensitive, be aware ) the switch is pushed, the capacitor charges up and when it is at the 8 volt point it makes the contacts and sounds the horn, one horn draws 2 amps so 4 amps relay contacts would do it nicely.
So now i have over a second delay ( which is too long but it proves the point ) and i have not sounded the horn by mistake yet, the setup is plug and play and connects to the horn spade connectors ( 12v connector comes off, plugs into the delay and the other re-connects to the horn plus again, the negative 10 mA slips under the horn negative terminal and of course the whole thing can be removed quickly;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN5d8MERWj4
The horn test is at the end of the video at 3 minutes and it is installed on my cb1000r.
I rode the cb1100 today and beeped the horn 4 times, i need to make another delay for that one too, what a kerfuffle!
That's a very interesting idea, but delaying the horn's reaction is opposite what I want. It's the relative positioning of the controls that defies my muscle memory. But I'll have to store that idea away for use somewhere!
(09-19-2020, 09:21 PM)Houtman_imp Wrote: I think that it makes more sense to have the indicator button close to your thumb as you (should !) use the indicator more often than the horn. For that reason I put the 2014 part on my 2013 , very easy to do.
I don't disagree, the turn signal is certainly used more often, and that would be a more natural position. It's whatever is more comfortable and instinctive of you. Honda is using that switch pattern on all their new bikes except Gold Wing.
But I ride my V-Strom and Triumph and others more often than the CB1100, and am used to it. A while ago I had a succession of V11 Guzzis that all had that pattern, and I never got used to it because I had to switch back and forth between Japanese bikes. Something about old dog, new tricks.....
(09-20-2020, 12:17 AM)peterbaron_imp Wrote: (09-19-2020, 02:09 PM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: I know we've covered this before, but I wanted to add a little new information.
If you don't like the positioning of the horn/turn signal switch, you can do something about it
Honda had always put the turn signal switch above the horn button, until the last 7 years. After 40 years of riding Hondas, it's as instinctive to me as the shift pattern, and I can't get used to the horn above the turn signal.
The 2013 CB1100 had the "correct" pattern, and except for re-drilling the holes for the locating pins, is a bolt on for 2014 models. I also put a 2013 switch on my 2017, which required making an interim sub-harness that I explained in another thread. http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15089
With some late Honda models, I've tried some different things. I've used the NC700X DCT switch and rewired the down-shift button as a horn, (while retaining the original horn button too), as well as rewire the up-shift trigger as a high beam flasher.
On both a PCX150 scooter and a first generation Grom, I've had to add an additional horn button beneath the turn signal switch. I bought just the starter button portion of the switch off a PCX150 (35160-KYZ-901 SWITCH UNIT, STARTER) from Honda for $14. This has a hinged lever that presses on the contacts and has the right size and feel.
I first shortened the lever about 8-10mm and filed it smooth. I spliced wires from the original button to the switch. Then I flipped it over, and held it securely to the bottom of the switch with safety wire (or a zip-tie). I then used either black silicone sealant, or Suguru moldable glue to fill in any gaps or openings. As a final step, I put a dab of red paint to hide the starter symbol.
Joe, this 2013 Honda PCX150 starter switch 35160-KYZ-901 is just the switch alone, so you made your own pig tail harness, correct?
Joe, this 2013 Honda PCX150 starter switch 35160-KYZ-901 is just the switch alone, so you made your own pig tail harness, correct?
Hi Peter, I've included pics of the switch, which uses the 2-pin connector as used on some clutch and brake lever harnesses. On my PCX, I wasn't concerned about appearance, just function. It's ugly but functional.
On the Grom, I was able to use just the small flat Honda terminals, and packed the cavity with silicone sealant. I ran the wires directly up into the switch. I also used a moldable black glue called Suguru to encapsulate it, but could have done a better job.
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I’m trying to get used to this as well and am on the lookout for a 13 switch. Meanwhile since I was changing handlebars I just drilled the hole on the bar a few mm away so that the switch is rotated a little higher. So that Now my thumb reaches the blinkers Batra’s of the horn. Now I have to raise my thumb higher for the horn.
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You guys might find this funny. 7 years ago I put a 13 switch on my 14 dlx which matched the locations of horn and t/s on my 06 ST 1300, and then 5 years later matched my 2018 FJR. Turn signal middle/horn bottom.
NOW.. I have on order a 2021 Honda NC 750X DCT and guess where the buttons are? So now I am going to put my 2014 switch BACK ON my 14 DLX and will have to retrain my brain and thumb for horn middle and t/s bottom. But at least they will both match again.
I should have a well used 13 switch available in the not so distant future lol.
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Just put '13 switches (both sides) on ALL your bikes...as it looks the most like what should be on a motorcycle!
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