10-08-2022, 03:03 AM
Some very good advice there PD, since the old fluid is usually darker in the clutch system i also tend to expel the old stuff by c clamping and compressing the slave piston ( which has a spring ( 11 ) behind it to take up any slack ) all the way in and replace the fluid in the line first before releasing the piston slowly thereby filling the slave cylinder with fresh fluid.
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...rear-cover
Also provides for a chance to check for any fluid leaks and corrosion development.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08cxqnaWn84
Also found that removing the bleednipples and applying some BLUE ( NOT red ) loctite on the threads prevents air and fluid escaping when the nipple is opened ( only a quarter of a turn ) to pass fluid, speedbleeders are doing the same, the loctite makes for a good seal during this job and still allows for movement, afterwards i also put a brake cleaner straw into the nipple, put a rag around it and clear all brake fluid out to prevent corrosion in that area before replacing the rubber cap on the nipple..
Other things to consider are to protect the cavity of the slave cylinder with a suitable grease like silicon paste against fluid which can creep past the seal and collect inside that cavity, same with the area under the rubber boot where the pushrod is behind the master cylinder.
Both areas can get messy if left unchecked but silicon grease can help protect the mostly aluminum surfaces and steel circlip over time.
Partsfish can be very helpful in finding out what the parts look like inside before working on them;
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/l/hon...a-ac-parts
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon...rear-cover
Also provides for a chance to check for any fluid leaks and corrosion development.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=08cxqnaWn84
Also found that removing the bleednipples and applying some BLUE ( NOT red ) loctite on the threads prevents air and fluid escaping when the nipple is opened ( only a quarter of a turn ) to pass fluid, speedbleeders are doing the same, the loctite makes for a good seal during this job and still allows for movement, afterwards i also put a brake cleaner straw into the nipple, put a rag around it and clear all brake fluid out to prevent corrosion in that area before replacing the rubber cap on the nipple..
Other things to consider are to protect the cavity of the slave cylinder with a suitable grease like silicon paste against fluid which can creep past the seal and collect inside that cavity, same with the area under the rubber boot where the pushrod is behind the master cylinder.
Both areas can get messy if left unchecked but silicon grease can help protect the mostly aluminum surfaces and steel circlip over time.
Partsfish can be very helpful in finding out what the parts look like inside before working on them;
https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/l/hon...a-ac-parts