07-01-2019, 07:17 AM
OK, I easily removed the wheel and tire earlier today, took it to my favorite tire shop for removal of old tre and install of new.
The instructions in the Owners Manual are minimal at best. I digress.
I may have misinterpreted the manual, and removed the caliper AND its carrier as a unit, leaving only the caliper and pads hanging on a nylon strap to keep pressure off the brake hose and electrical wiring (to the brake light?)
1. Was I supposed to unbolt the caliper from the carrier before removing the rear wheel?
2. Is it possible to replace the pads without removing the axle and the caliper carrier? In other words can the wheel stay on the bike when changing rear pads?
It was difficult, but I was able to get the wheel/tire back under the fender, and able to align adjusters, spacers, and brake mount and caliper.
For some reason, the rear brake doesn't feel as powerful as before I started this operation. However, I can rotate the rear wheel by hand with bike on centerstand, and I hear no strange sounds. Rear rotor did feel considerably warmer than front rotors after a short ride.
Can I pull only the brake caliper and pads just to make certain everything is where it should be. On visual examination, pads seem to be where they're supposed to be ...... one to the left of the rotor, the other to the right.
Embarrassed to have to ask this question. I've been doing my own maintenance for 30 years, and never experienced an issue changing front or rear pads.
Bob
I did locate a couple of posts from Delphisa and LongRanger that made it look as though I'd really done it the hard way ..... that I should have unbolted the one 12mm bolt that holds the caliper to the mounting plate.
The instructions in the Owners Manual are minimal at best. I digress.
I may have misinterpreted the manual, and removed the caliper AND its carrier as a unit, leaving only the caliper and pads hanging on a nylon strap to keep pressure off the brake hose and electrical wiring (to the brake light?)
1. Was I supposed to unbolt the caliper from the carrier before removing the rear wheel?
2. Is it possible to replace the pads without removing the axle and the caliper carrier? In other words can the wheel stay on the bike when changing rear pads?
It was difficult, but I was able to get the wheel/tire back under the fender, and able to align adjusters, spacers, and brake mount and caliper.
For some reason, the rear brake doesn't feel as powerful as before I started this operation. However, I can rotate the rear wheel by hand with bike on centerstand, and I hear no strange sounds. Rear rotor did feel considerably warmer than front rotors after a short ride.
Can I pull only the brake caliper and pads just to make certain everything is where it should be. On visual examination, pads seem to be where they're supposed to be ...... one to the left of the rotor, the other to the right.
Embarrassed to have to ask this question. I've been doing my own maintenance for 30 years, and never experienced an issue changing front or rear pads.
Bob
I did locate a couple of posts from Delphisa and LongRanger that made it look as though I'd really done it the hard way ..... that I should have unbolted the one 12mm bolt that holds the caliper to the mounting plate.