OK, I easily removed the wheel and tire earlier today, took it to my favorite tire shop for removal of old tre and install of new.
The instructions in the Owners Manual are minimal at best. I digress.
I may have misinterpreted the manual, and removed the caliper AND its carrier as a unit, leaving only the caliper and pads hanging on a nylon strap to keep pressure off the brake hose and electrical wiring (to the brake light?)
1. Was I supposed to unbolt the caliper from the carrier before removing the rear wheel?
2. Is it possible to replace the pads without removing the axle and the caliper carrier? In other words can the wheel stay on the bike when changing rear pads?
It was difficult, but I was able to get the wheel/tire back under the fender, and able to align adjusters, spacers, and brake mount and caliper.
For some reason, the rear brake doesn't feel as powerful as before I started this operation. However, I can rotate the rear wheel by hand with bike on centerstand, and I hear no strange sounds. Rear rotor did feel considerably warmer than front rotors after a short ride.
Can I pull only the brake caliper and pads just to make certain everything is where it should be. On visual examination, pads seem to be where they're supposed to be ...... one to the left of the rotor, the other to the right.
Embarrassed to have to ask this question. I've been doing my own maintenance for 30 years, and never experienced an issue changing front or rear pads.
Bob
I did locate a couple of posts from Delphisa and LongRanger that made it look as though I'd really done it the hard way ..... that I should have unbolted the one 12mm bolt that holds the caliper to the mounting plate.
Here is a flick (also available here at the Forum) in regards to the front pad replacement. Appears straightforward. There might also be a rear brake pad video somewhere (not quite sure), but maybe the approach is similar.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNoMGVII...e=youtu.be
Removing the caliper/pads from the caliper bracket to change the rear tire makes it a little easier to reassemble, but is not really necessary.
Changing rear brake pads can be done with the wheel and axle in place, without loosening the axle.
Loosen the small pad retaining pin first, remove the caliper bolt with a 12mm head, pivot it open on the front mount, take the retaining pin out, and change pads.
After you change tires, it often seems (or sounds) like the brakes aren't working as well. We often gauge hard braking by hearing the tires chirp and skid as they are locking up and regaining traction. With a stickier new tire, it isn't as prone to break traction, hence less audible clues we associate with braking.
Ohio do a search for " rear brake pad replacement " there is a good step-by-step with pictures by long ranger that may be good to read.
Lots of self-help available through the search function at the top of each page here.
(07-01-2019, 07:17 AM)ohiorider_imp Wrote: [ -> ]OK, I easily removed the wheel and tire earlier today, took it to my favorite tire shop for removal of old tre and install of new.
The instructions in the Owners Manual are minimal at best. I digress.
I may have misinterpreted the manual, and removed the caliper AND its carrier as a unit, leaving only the caliper and pads hanging on a nylon strap to keep pressure off the brake hose and electrical wiring (to the brake light?)
1. Was I supposed to unbolt the caliper from the carrier before removing the rear wheel?
2. Is it possible to replace the pads without removing the axle and the caliper carrier? In other words can the wheel stay on the bike when changing rear pads?
It was difficult, but I was able to get the wheel/tire back under the fender, and able to align adjusters, spacers, and brake mount and caliper.
For some reason, the rear brake doesn't feel as powerful as before I started this operation. However, I can rotate the rear wheel by hand with bike on centerstand, and I hear no strange sounds. Rear rotor did feel considerably warmer than front rotors after a short ride.
Can I pull only the brake caliper and pads just to make certain everything is where it should be. On visual examination, pads seem to be where they're supposed to be ...... one to the left of the rotor, the other to the right.
Embarrassed to have to ask this question. I've been doing my own maintenance for 30 years, and never experienced an issue changing front or rear pads.
Bob
I did locate a couple of posts from Delphisa and LongRanger that made it look as though I'd really done it the hard way ..... that I should have unbolted the one 12mm bolt that holds the caliper to the mounting plate.
I pulled the caliper, and played hell getting the tabs on the front ot the pads to stay seated on the front of the caliper. Finally thought I had it right and refastened the 12mm bolt that holds caliper to hanger, and the 8mm that holds the pads in place. Rotated the wheel by hand, and it didn't feel like it was in any sort of bind. But after 3 short trips abound the block, I noticed that the rear brake wasn't functioning as strong as I remembered it, and so put bike up on center stand once again and rotated wheel. No apparent issue, but when I touched the rotor, it was extremely hot. Front rotors warm to the touch. Something is happening.
If youre unsure about the new pads you could put the old ones back to check that the system itself is functional.
Are the pads positioned properly at the forward support end and have some downward pressure from the flat spring plate at the top?
I usually remove the rear " sliding" bolt out just like pekingduck suggested, tilt the caliper up and swap the pads, was the piston nice and clean and the caliper slides freely sideways?
New pads do need to bed in so the surfaces mate optimal but should not heat up the disk too much.
ohiorider,
I thought you only replaced the rear tire only, not the brake pads. If brake pads were replaced with OEM from Honda, they may need to bed in just a little bit too. If they are not OEM, they may indeed have a different feel.
(07-01-2019, 10:16 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: [ -> ]ohiorider,
I thought you only replaced the rear tire only, not the brake pads. If brake pads were replaced with OEM from Honda, they may need to bed in just a little bit too. If they are not OEM, they may indeed have a different feel.
Correct, this was strictly a rear tire replacement, not a pad replacement. The original rear pads looked fine, as though they had lots of miles left. I typically use the rear brake more as a trailing device, not as a major force to stop the bike.
Bob
Last time I changed the rear wheel on the 650L I mixed up the spacers (wrong side). I imagine if you do the same on the CB it could cause a brake problem.
Keep in mind, these bikes will make you feel foolish from time to time.
But it takes a computer to really rub it in and make you feel like a complete idiot.
(07-01-2019, 09:48 AM)ohiorider_imp Wrote: [ -> ] (07-01-2019, 07:17 AM)ohiorider_imp Wrote: [ -> ]OK, I easily removed the wheel and tire earlier today, took it to my favorite tire shop for removal of old tre and install of new.
The instructions in the Owners Manual are minimal at best. I digress.
I may have misinterpreted the manual, and removed the caliper AND its carrier as a unit, leaving only the caliper and pads hanging on a nylon strap to keep pressure off the brake hose and electrical wiring (to the brake light?)
1. Was I supposed to unbolt the caliper from the carrier before removing the rear wheel?
2. Is it possible to replace the pads without removing the axle and the caliper carrier? In other words can the wheel stay on the bike when changing rear pads?
It was difficult, but I was able to get the wheel/tire back under the fender, and able to align adjusters, spacers, and brake mount and caliper.
For some reason, the rear brake doesn't feel as powerful as before I started this operation. However, I can rotate the rear wheel by hand with bike on centerstand, and I hear no strange sounds. Rear rotor did feel considerably warmer than front rotors after a short ride.
Can I pull only the brake caliper and pads just to make certain everything is where it should be. On visual examination, pads seem to be where they're supposed to be ...... one to the left of the rotor, the other to the right.
Embarrassed to have to ask this question. I've been doing my own maintenance for 30 years, and never experienced an issue changing front or rear pads.
Bob
I did locate a couple of posts from Delphisa and LongRanger that made it look as though I'd really done it the hard way ..... that I should have unbolted the one 12mm bolt that holds the caliper to the mounting plate.
I pulled the caliper, and played hell getting the tabs on the front ot the pads to stay seated on the front of the caliper. Finally thought I had it right and refastened the 12mm bolt that holds caliper to hanger, and the 8mm that holds the pads in place. Rotated the wheel by hand, and it didn't feel like it was in any sort of bind. But after 3 short trips abound the block, I noticed that the rear brake wasn't functioning as strong as I remembered it, and so put bike up on center stand once again and rotated wheel. No apparent issue, but when I touched the rotor, it was extremely hot. Front rotors warm to the touch. Something is happening.
Just in case: check fluid level. It might be too high now that you have new pads, so maybe you have to remove some fluid.