05-08-2019, 06:10 AM
Houtman, simple answer is; replace both and see if the cel stays off.
What i found out in the mean time may make sense to you, the sensors do not get their 12 volt supply for the heater directly from the common rail supplied by the red engine cut out switch and it's relay, it is supplied from the ecm as is the 0volt return, it is "modulated" from the ecm to not overheat the heater element which draws 1.5 amps cold and reduces to 0.8 amps when it is a bit warmer but not yet at operating temperature, this is not according to what the electrical diagram shows you.
I started with a 1500 ohm resistor instead of the heater ( which is what is the eliminator is doing ) and that ( 5 times bigger ) value makes the ecm " happy " and the cel stays off, i then installed a 470 ohm resistor and have been riding with it for abt 200 km with good results, the "surging" has disappeared predictably.
The voltage on the resistor measures 1,5 volt and the voltage ACROSS the resistor is 0,14 volt which is a very low and safe voltage.
The ecm "knows" something has happened but is happy to supply a much reduced voltage to the heater supply.
At the same time the voltage on the sense wire to the ecm is a measured 0.45 volt, a nice "middle of the road" value so i have to do nothing about that, the ecm takes care of that side and should produce a good value for determining the fuel air mixture.
If you or someone has a voltmeter you may first check if the resistor is of the same value as the new ones, has broken/ bad solder joint or something else wrong compared to a new one ( the two pins opposite the locking clip).
Second maybe check the voltage from chassis to the resistor ( 1.5 volt in my case ) and across the resistor ( 0.14 volt in my case ), you may have to dig into the insulation to get access to the resistor wires when it is connected to the bike.
On my bike it seems the value of the resistor is not at all critical but it may be different on your model, you could have several different value resistors and experiment ( or have a trusted tech check these values for you ) to see if they have become critical on the newer model, it will be different from mine after all these years and twice the o2 sensors.
Cheers.
What i found out in the mean time may make sense to you, the sensors do not get their 12 volt supply for the heater directly from the common rail supplied by the red engine cut out switch and it's relay, it is supplied from the ecm as is the 0volt return, it is "modulated" from the ecm to not overheat the heater element which draws 1.5 amps cold and reduces to 0.8 amps when it is a bit warmer but not yet at operating temperature, this is not according to what the electrical diagram shows you.
I started with a 1500 ohm resistor instead of the heater ( which is what is the eliminator is doing ) and that ( 5 times bigger ) value makes the ecm " happy " and the cel stays off, i then installed a 470 ohm resistor and have been riding with it for abt 200 km with good results, the "surging" has disappeared predictably.
The voltage on the resistor measures 1,5 volt and the voltage ACROSS the resistor is 0,14 volt which is a very low and safe voltage.
The ecm "knows" something has happened but is happy to supply a much reduced voltage to the heater supply.
At the same time the voltage on the sense wire to the ecm is a measured 0.45 volt, a nice "middle of the road" value so i have to do nothing about that, the ecm takes care of that side and should produce a good value for determining the fuel air mixture.
If you or someone has a voltmeter you may first check if the resistor is of the same value as the new ones, has broken/ bad solder joint or something else wrong compared to a new one ( the two pins opposite the locking clip).
Second maybe check the voltage from chassis to the resistor ( 1.5 volt in my case ) and across the resistor ( 0.14 volt in my case ), you may have to dig into the insulation to get access to the resistor wires when it is connected to the bike.
On my bike it seems the value of the resistor is not at all critical but it may be different on your model, you could have several different value resistors and experiment ( or have a trusted tech check these values for you ) to see if they have become critical on the newer model, it will be different from mine after all these years and twice the o2 sensors.
Cheers.