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Test condition: hydraulic circuit is sealed
1.Remove the slave cylinder (do not disconnect from hydraulic line) and lock it solid by a wise grip or clamp in a manner that its movement is 99.9% prevented
if not possible
2. Block your clutch hose as close as possible to the slave cylinder
3. Carefully applied your clutch lever, is it solid, soft, spongy, so-so, funny... or????
Note:
* do not press too hard on the clutch lever as you may damage something
* when you gain access to the clutch slave, check if any (3) of M6 loooong bolts is loose, stripped or something else in that area looks suspicious, is bent or damage, worn push rod or its seat ...maybe someone was there before you ??
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Just a thought, Sounds like the fluid is still partially pressurized in the system.
1. Drain the fluid from inside the master cylinder until you can see the base of the reservoir.
2. There should be a small (very tiny) hole (Compensating Port) on top of the piston bore.
3. Make sure that this compensating port (tiny hole) is not clogged with debris by pushing a very tiny drill or metal rod bit through.
Note:
This compensating port hole must be free of any dirt/debris so that the fluid can return back to the master reservoir.
Do not change the size of the Compensating Port hole diameter.
Careful not to damage the piston bore by cleaning it afterward.
Hope it helps.
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Thanks guys, but I'm not new at this, I have checked all those things. It's only got 15k on the bike, I flushed it shortly after buying it (2018) and all is very clean at present. I can see the piston going back and forth as I pump it, one attempt had bubbles coming back up through the port when wiggling the lever. That is an OLD trick. It improved from where I started on THAT attempt but it has never gone to good.
Still searching. Thanks to all. I looked up TSB's on this but nothing. Has anyone else had this much trouble??
TM
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I'll stand to be corrected STLTHSTA, but I don't recall reading about a problem like this on this forum.
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... I reckon when STLTHMSTA resolves the plight, the Forum will be even richer in knowledge for it.
Good mind share.
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I re-read the original complaint, and had overlooked the fact that he uses 2 fingers to activate the clutch. The straight, full length design of the lever blades means that 2 presumably gloved fingers are trapped underneath, preventing the lever from coming within 3/4" of the bar. Perhaps the bike is functioning as designed.
Shorty levers, or possibly dog-leg levers may be an answer. With RLETs of course.
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(10-19-2022, 07:35 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: I re-read the original complaint, and had overlooked the fact that he uses 2 fingers to activate the clutch. The straight, full length design of the lever blades means that 2 presumably gloved fingers are trapped underneath, preventing the lever from coming within 3/4" of the bar. Perhaps the bike is functioning as designed.
Shorty levers, or possibly dog-leg levers may be an answer. With RLETs of course.
Have we seen such an animal here at the Forum?
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Oh I'll be telling everyone what the solution is when I find one. Even if it's me that is the problem. It's such a simple system I can't understand what the catch is. But we'll all know. Thanks for hangin' in with me on this.
TM
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I replaced my clutch hose with a braided one. It took A LOT of pumping and vacuum to get the system bled properly. I pumped it with the top off about 20 times, then let the vacuum pull fluid through. I had to do this many times before I got good pressure.
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Geeez, who would have thought just bleeding a clutch woulda caused so much conversation?? Thanks to everyone who hung in there with this. I made some progress I believe, but I've been fooled before, LOL.
I installed a speed bleeder valve and bled some more, a lot more.3 masters full more. Feels a little better and I did get some bubs out the top but just a few. When the weather perks up a little this w/e I'll give it a try.
I'll report back with the outcome. TM
