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Doubt this helps, but when looking at the service manual troubleshooting for the clutch--
Clutch will not disengage or motorcycle creeps with clutch disengaged
Air in hydraulic system
Low fluid level
Hydraulic system leaking or clogged
Loose clutch center lock nut
Oil level too high
Improper oil viscosity
Damaged clutch lifter mechanism
Clutch lifter piece installed improperly
Thats all I got
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Any chance the grip is a fatter than stock one, or a heated grip?
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If you look at the values of the measurements in post 7 how do they compare with your situation?
Especially the beginning of the clutch plates travel right after the freeplay is key here.
Very little point looking at the plates, you have to feel the movement with your finger ( WITH THE ENGINE OFF, I'm learning
) because it is very small in the beginning of the travel , all you want to do is establish at what point the travel starts.
I can see if i can somehow measure the total travel of my clutch plates if you wish.
On a sidenote; which engine oil has been used?
For instance my old cb550 shifts into neutral easier when the engine is cold; no idea why.
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(10-10-2022, 06:50 PM)max_imp Wrote: If you look at the values of the measurements in post 7 how do they compare with your situation?
Especially the beginning of the clutch plates travel right after the freeplay is key here.
Very little point looking at the plates, you have to feel the movement with your finger ( WITH THE ENGINE OFF, I'm learning ) because it is very small in the beginning of the travel , all you want to do is establish at what point the travel starts.
I can see if i can somehow measure the total travel of my clutch plates if you wish.
On a sidenote; which engine oil has been used?
For instance my old cb550 shifts into neutral easier when the engine is cold; no idea why.
So does my CB1100.
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(10-10-2022, 12:50 PM)pekingduck_imp Wrote: Any chance the grip is a fatter than stock one, or a heated grip?
Yes, but I even took the grip off and have a bare handlebar at this time.
Youse guys are great hangin' with me with this. Garsh, Thanks
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On that happy note i measured the travel of my clutch, see picture;
Also used a borescope to make a video but in true chinese fashion it recorded a nice green screen on my tablet.
However i could clearly see the clutch plates moving closeup when looking at the tablet before the recording and found that the travel started indeed as soon as the pressure buildt up in the handle, remember this is very close-up and on a 10 inch screen and as mentioned before this initial movement can be clearly felt by my little finger.
The travel measured close to 1.8 mm on my calipers, i had to find the right spot with the stem of the calipers and rest the calipers base in the filler opening so they would be steady enough to read both readings on the scale as i pulled the lever in.
What more can i say?
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... nice floating Vernier caliper effect max?
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Some serious training went into that trick GO.
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(10-11-2022, 02:36 PM)max_imp Wrote: Some serious training went into that trick GO.
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OK, latest attempt in between life getting in the way. I took off the slave cylinder, clamped it lightly in a small vise and pushed the piston all the way in. I can move it by hand btw. All seems to be in good shape, it springs back to "home" position. I then held the cylinder on a bench higher than the master and vacuum bleed again.
No change, still drags like crazy. I put it in gear motor not running, pull the clutch and I can barely move the wheel but looses up as I rotate it. I wonder if previous owner warped the plates or I made it worse but I'm not sure.
Just guessing, it looks like the pressure plate moves about the same 1.8mm distance as Max reported.
I may be going in or looking for a larger diameter master. I have never had so much issue with this issue before. Hmmmm, TM
