Clutch Fluid

[Wagonpeddler_imp]

Time to change....Have a vacuum bleeder. Recommend removing the old fluid from the reservoir first, or just pumping the old fluid, then adding new?
Thanks.

[mvk24_imp]

This is prob gonna sound ridiculous but what fluid are you using for the clutch side? I'm literally starring at my brake and clutch reservoirs going "I should flush those"

I know how to do the brakes but have never flushed a hydraulic clutch? Mind doing a write up or taking some pictures when you do yours?

I have a Motive PowerBleeder for my car and LOVE it. Makes the job so easy. I'm tempted to buy the adapters to use it on the motorcycle reservoirs.

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

[mvk24_imp]

Time to change....Have a vacuum bleeder. Recommend removing the old fluid from the reservoir first, or just pumping the old fluid, then adding new?
Thanks.

I just Googled the forum cause the the search function in the tapatalk app never works.

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/archive/ind...-4655.html

Good write up minus pictures for the clutch flush. Seems simple enough like doing brakes.

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

[Wagonpeddler_imp]

Saw that thread too. Specifically...."Next, take your hand held bleeder and vacuum out all the fluid in the brake master. Do not pump the clutch handle as this may allow air to enter the system. Simply remove the contaminated fluid and refill the reservoir to the inner max level line with fresh DOT4 brake fluid".
Suggested removing the old fluid from the reservoir first....just wondering if that was the preferred method.

[peterbaron]

This is how I do by using synthetic DOT4 brake fluid for clutch and brake hydraulic circuits. I use suction machine as well.
Also, have ready some water to clean and rinse in case if one spills brake fluid >> corrosive and eats paint.
Before flushing, I always suck out the old fluid including sediment/black stuff, then filled up reservoirs and suck out again, now it's clean and ready for flushing. Engine and ignition OFF.
Providing there are no leaks and fluids were at the proper working levels*, I start sucking/bleeders crack open, the LF caliper then the RF while topping up the brake reservoir at least a few time, to ensure particular circuit received sufficient and fresh fluid flush.
Then, I continue flushing while pumping brake lever, LF>>RF caliper.
Final step and performance test: pump up brake lever a few times until "solid" then crack open and close bleeders, repeat 2-3 times. Test brake lever, cannot be spungee/soft when flushing is completed. Fluids are not compressible but perfect to transfer motion.
Very important with brakes: adjust reservoir fluid level to its pre-flushing stage* cos fluid level will very in accordance to pads wear, thinner pads = lower fluid level, new pads = level is at its max.
Similar procedure with the rear brake.

Clutch similar procedure, except "solid" stage and leave fluid level at its allowable max.

When completed, mandatory road test to check brake and clutch performance.



Before flushing - black colour





After flushing- light brown colour





These pics were taken when I did my white standard.
Soon will do my DLX.

[Nachodaddy]

Very nice, Peter. Thank you.

[GoldOxide_imp]

I should consider bleedin' my hydraulics one day. Last one done in '84.

[mvk24_imp]

I should consider bleedin' my hydraulics one day. Last one done in '84.

Haha and here i am worried that I missed the 2 year interval by 9 years

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

[GoldOxide_imp]

I should consider bleedin' my hydraulics one day. Last one done in '84.

Haha and here i am worried that I missed the 2 year interval by 9 years

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

Haha and here i am worried that I missed the 2 year interval by 9 years

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
I reckon if the fluid is black like tar, then for sure it should be replaced.

Most cages on the road have original hydraulic fluid from 10 or more years ago. Albeit, the volumes are much more significant than motorcycles. Nobody around my circle get their brakes flushed. Not sure why that is. Even garages are not eager to bother. Again, weird. Decades ago this was not the case.

[mvk24_imp]

I should consider bleedin' my hydraulics one day. Last one done in '84.

Haha and here i am worried that I missed the 2 year interval by 9 years

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

Haha and here i am worried that I missed the 2 year interval by 9 years

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
I reckon if the fluid is black like tar, then for sure it should be replaced.

Most cages on the road have original hydraulic fluid from 10 or more years ago. Albeit, the volumes are much more significant than motorcycles. Nobody around my circle get their brakes flushed. Not sure why that is. Even garages are not eager to bother. Again, weird. Decades ago this was not the case.

Haha and here i am worried that I missed the 2 year interval by 9 years

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
I reckon if the fluid is black like tar, then for sure it should be replaced.

Most cages on the road have original hydraulic fluid from 10 or more years ago. Albeit, the volumes are much more significant than motorcycles. Nobody around my circle get their brakes flushed. Not sure why that is. Even garages are not eager to bother. Again, weird. Decades ago this was not the case. Great point, now that I got the Motive powerbleeder I flushed my car twice in the last 3 years

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca