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Fork seals leaking @19,000 miles on ODO
#11
(03-14-2019, 11:12 AM)Frulk_imp Wrote: Left leaking a little more than the right. Just noticed it. Plan to order the parts and replace the seals and bushings with a buddy assisting. I might post pics and do a step-by-step pictorial for the Forum.

Frulk, do you mind if i ask how long you've had it? I'm closing in on 19k on the ODO myself and my fork seals are perfect. i'm wondering if i should be planning for this now or if it's got less to do with the mileage and more to do with the age.
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#12
I’ve owned the bike since new. Bought in 2015. #00021. The Tim Duncan tribute edition. I’m going to try the tool first and then see what happens. Appears that the probability is high that could fix it.
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#13
That could be telling. 2015 vs. 2017. that means i should be on the lookout for my seals to go in about 2 years. thanks for that.
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#14
(03-14-2019, 08:37 PM)GoldOxide_imp Wrote:
(03-14-2019, 03:20 PM)pekingduck_imp Wrote:
(03-14-2019, 01:03 PM)Flynrider_imp Wrote: Hey Frulk,

Before you go replacing the seals I'd strongly recommend trying something like the Motion-Pro Sealmate. Leaking is often caused by dust and dirt getting into the seal. The Sealmate is a thin but rigid piece of plastic that you insert between the fork seal and the fork tube. You slide it all the way around and the hook shape at the end helps pull out the grit.

A few years ago I did a lot of dirt roads on my CB11 and both forks started leaking (around 21K miles). 15 min. with the Sealmate and they haven't leaked a drop since. Same thing happened with the left seal on my CB750. I'd already replaced the seals a few years earlier, so I suspected the cause was just dirt. Sure enough, the Sealmate did the trick again.

If your seals are truly cracked, it's not going to help, but I've found that most leaking seals are just dirty. Definitely worth the small price to find out. I've actually made my own version out of plastic playing cards, using the original Sealmate as a pattern.

http://sealmate.net/

I am in agreement with Flynrider here. Seals almost never crack and wear out, but a little particle of metal debris can sometimes get stuck right at the seal lip and holds it open. I've popped the dust seal off, and using a .002" or .003" feeler gauge, slid it in down past the seal lip. As I rotate it around the fork tube, pulling upwards as I do, I've been able to draw the grit out. It has always worked for me.

Metal feeler gauge? I suppose one has to be a little careful not to damage the soft surfaces during the wedging procedure?

Metal feeler gauge? I suppose one has to be a little careful not to damage the soft surfaces during the wedging procedure?
GO, you would be amazed how easily it slides in. Usually it's not the dust and dirt that comes from the outside, it's the metallic particles in the fork oil from normal wear, and it's so intermittent and random, many GW riders have over 200k miles on original seals.
Make sure there are no dead bugs or dried mud on the fork tubes - waxing them helps, as does fork gaiters.
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#15
(03-15-2019, 04:19 AM)pekingduck_imp Wrote:
(03-14-2019, 08:37 PM)GoldOxide_imp Wrote:
(03-14-2019, 03:20 PM)pekingduck_imp Wrote:
(03-14-2019, 01:03 PM)Flynrider_imp Wrote: Hey Frulk,

Before you go replacing the seals I'd strongly recommend trying something like the Motion-Pro Sealmate. Leaking is often caused by dust and dirt getting into the seal. The Sealmate is a thin but rigid piece of plastic that you insert between the fork seal and the fork tube. You slide it all the way around and the hook shape at the end helps pull out the grit.

A few years ago I did a lot of dirt roads on my CB11 and both forks started leaking (around 21K miles). 15 min. with the Sealmate and they haven't leaked a drop since. Same thing happened with the left seal on my CB750. I'd already replaced the seals a few years earlier, so I suspected the cause was just dirt. Sure enough, the Sealmate did the trick again.

If your seals are truly cracked, it's not going to help, but I've found that most leaking seals are just dirty. Definitely worth the small price to find out. I've actually made my own version out of plastic playing cards, using the original Sealmate as a pattern.

http://sealmate.net/

I am in agreement with Flynrider here. Seals almost never crack and wear out, but a little particle of metal debris can sometimes get stuck right at the seal lip and holds it open. I've popped the dust seal off, and using a .002" or .003" feeler gauge, slid it in down past the seal lip. As I rotate it around the fork tube, pulling upwards as I do, I've been able to draw the grit out. It has always worked for me.

Metal feeler gauge? I suppose one has to be a little careful not to damage the soft surfaces during the wedging procedure?

Metal feeler gauge? I suppose one has to be a little careful not to damage the soft surfaces during the wedging procedure?
GO, you would be amazed how easily it slides in. Usually it's not the dust and dirt that comes from the outside, it's the metallic particles in the fork oil from normal wear, and it's so intermittent and random, many GW riders have over 200k miles on original seals.
Make sure there are no dead bugs or dried mud on the fork tubes - waxing them helps, as does fork gaiters.

Metal feeler gauge? I suppose one has to be a little careful not to damage the soft surfaces during the wedging procedure?
GO, you would be amazed how easily it slides in. Usually it's not the dust and dirt that comes from the outside, it's the metallic particles in the fork oil from normal wear, and it's so intermittent and random, many GW riders have over 200k miles on original seals.
Make sure there are no dead bugs or dried mud on the fork tubes - waxing them helps, as does fork gaiters.
I am ready to be amazed. It will happen! Smile
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#16
I bought the Sealmate per Flynrider at a local bike shop. Last one they had for $9.99. Sat on my driveway with the bike on centerstand and gently pried the dust covers up and out of the way and used the Sealmate as per instructions. I could almost swear I pulled out what appeared to be two grains of sand on the leaking fork. Pumped the forks a few times and put the dust covers back down snug. Was busy riding the Guzzi and XR yesterday so will run to my buddies coffee shop this AM on the CB and see if it did the trick. I’ll report back.
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#17
(03-16-2019, 11:39 PM)Frulk_imp Wrote: I bought the Sealmate per Flynrider at a local bike shop. Last one they had for $9.99. Sat on my driveway with the bike on centerstand and gently pried the dust covers up and out of the way and used the Sealmate as per instructions. I could almost swear I pulled out what appeared to be two grains of sand on the leaking fork. Pumped the forks a few times and put the dust covers back down snug. Was busy riding the Guzzi and XR yesterday so will run to my buddies coffee shop this AM on the CB and see if it did the trick. I’ll report back.

Fingers crossed Frulk.
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#18
(03-14-2019, 01:03 PM)Flynrider_imp Wrote: Hey Frulk,

Before you go replacing the seals I'd strongly recommend trying something like the Motion-Pro Sealmate. Leaking is often caused by dust and dirt getting into the seal. The Sealmate is a thin but rigid piece of plastic that you insert between the fork seal and the fork tube. You slide it all the way around and the hook shape at the end helps pull out the grit.

A few years ago I did a lot of dirt roads on my CB11 and both forks started leaking (around 21K miles). 15 min. with the Sealmate and they haven't leaked a drop since. Same thing happened with the left seal on my CB750. I'd already replaced the seals a few years earlier, so I suspected the cause was just dirt. Sure enough, the Sealmate did the trick again.

If your seals are truly cracked, it's not going to help, but I've found that most leaking seals are just dirty. Definitely worth the small price to find out. I've actually made my own version out of plastic playing cards, using the original Sealmate as a pattern.

http://sealmate.net/
Dig out a old 35mm negative film strip and use that to dislodge the debris.
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#19
(03-17-2019, 12:25 AM)DBM_imp Wrote:
(03-14-2019, 01:03 PM)Flynrider_imp Wrote: Hey Frulk,

Before you go replacing the seals I'd strongly recommend trying something like the Motion-Pro Sealmate. Leaking is often caused by dust and dirt getting into the seal. The Sealmate is a thin but rigid piece of plastic that you insert between the fork seal and the fork tube. You slide it all the way around and the hook shape at the end helps pull out the grit.

A few years ago I did a lot of dirt roads on my CB11 and both forks started leaking (around 21K miles). 15 min. with the Sealmate and they haven't leaked a drop since. Same thing happened with the left seal on my CB750. I'd already replaced the seals a few years earlier, so I suspected the cause was just dirt. Sure enough, the Sealmate did the trick again.

If your seals are truly cracked, it's not going to help, but I've found that most leaking seals are just dirty. Definitely worth the small price to find out. I've actually made my own version out of plastic playing cards, using the original Sealmate as a pattern.

http://sealmate.net/
Dig out a old 35mm negative film strip and use that to dislodge the debris.

Was thinking something similar, however, I started thinking that old plastic "jimmys" (or even old acetate negatives) become brittle with age and could splinter within the seal. I reckon you probably wish to use plastic (because it won't scratch metal surfaces) that is fresh enough that it won't splinter apart.
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#20
Rode about 15 miles one way to the coffee shop noticed no oil leaking. checked it back on my driveway and everything looks good. total of 30 miles. Appears to have done the trick for $10!!

Thanks Flynrider….Thumbs Up

The previously leaking fork:

[Image: 768ddc7d77ba27cb19d71f3c94390466.jpg]

Cup of Americano and a chocolate croissant hit the spot considering it was 32 degrees when I left the house.

[Image: 82dff35f9ceb5098ae19e6a3a2aa0dba.jpg]

I currently have the stock seat on the bike because I need to take the K&H seat in due to a seam coming apart. for around town jaunts the stock seat is tolerable.

[Image: 9bc8850be1a66b2213f25df131ddf7b2.jpg]
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