LED Flasher Relay

[Lord Popgun]

Well Hardy, here is why.

I decided to do a little investigation so I removed my left front turn signal bulb.

I then selected the left blinker. I got hyperflashing.

I then metered the voltage on the socket. With the turn signals off and just running lights on the voltage measured 4.5v. When blinking it would go to a much higher level. A digital meter does not respond fast enough to see the exact voltage before it goes off and on while blinking. I’d need to put my scope on it. My meter would only show 8.5 or so volts before the off part of the blink cycle.

So what is happening to you is that there is ~4.5v all the time and your LEDs aren’t running right on that. Then when the relay starts switching the 12v they do.

And now we know that if any of us, including me, had been smart enough to just LOOK, we could have seen the running lights are less bright than when signaling.

[E11even_Hunnit]

My understanding is:
-He who does not desire running lights as a function, should tap into the rear indicator harness for "off-when-not-activated" signal (2 wire socket)
-He who wishes to have his blinkers operate as DRL's, should tap into the front indicator harness for "always on dim+Brighter setting" signal (3 wire socket)

The question was: Why is one to more beneficial over the other one, besides personal preference which is entirely subjective..

[Cormanus]

The answer may lie somewhere in the fact that, as I understand it, it is a legal requirement in the US that every motorcycle's front indicators should be also be running lights and therefore be on at all times except when they are acting as indicators. Exercising the option to turn them off may be rewarded with a fine.

[Lord Popgun]

E11, just keep in mind that our bikes do not have 3 wire sockets in the front.

Cormanus, you are correct, but actually getting a ticket is not really likely. What would be more likely, but not a sure thing, is failing a state safety inspection. And not all states have those.

[Lord Popgun]

Ok, just for giggles I'm going to put a scope on the front socket and see how the voltage swings look. I'll do that tonight or tomorrow.

[GoldOxide_imp]

Ok, just for giggles I'm going to put a scope on the front socket and see how the voltage swings look. I'll do that tonight or tomorrow.

That would be wonderful and constructive to all watching.

Lord P.

[Lord Popgun]

Gold, My initial results are perplexing so before I do a good test and post some pics of the scope presentation I have to redo my test setup.

My initial test setup try ended up blowing the turn signal fuse. I then ran the test with the left front bulb removed. With ignition on, and thus the running lights on, I did not get the 4.5v. Instead it was a pulsed 12v. Interesting. With the Left signal selected I got the hyper flashing, but was a pulsed 12v as you would expect. And obviously a lot faster. 0v to 12v then back to 0v for non electronic guys. It appears that the running light intensity is not controlled by lowering the voltage, but by pulsing the 12v. Changing the duty cycle to about .5 Half on half off. We’ll see when I post scope pics.

I want to do the test with the lights operating normally so I am going to have to open up the headlight so I can get to the left signal connection for the 12v connection and have the bulb installed. Then there will be no hyperflashing and I can get exact operation.

[Lord Popgun]

Gold, new test setup is done and everything works properly. I’ll finish the project tomorrow, get the pics transferred to Photobucket (yeah I pay for it—sue me) and get them here.

Just so non techs know, I will explain how to read an o’scope so you can understand what you are seeing. It is NOT rocket science. Easy really. Heck, I can do it

[GoldOxide_imp]

Gold, My initial results are perplexing so before I do a good test and post some pics of the scope presentation I have to redo my test setup.

My initial test setup try ended up blowing the turn signal fuse. I then ran the test with the left front bulb removed. With ignition on, and thus the running lights on, I did not get the 4.5v. Instead it was a pulsed 12v. Interesting. With the Left signal selected I got the hyper flashing, but was a pulsed 12v as you would expect. And obviously a lot faster. 0v to 12v then back to 0v for non electronic guys. It appears that the running light intensity is not controlled by lowering the voltage, but by pulsing the 12v. Changing the duty cycle to about .5 Half on half off. We’ll see when I post scope pics.

I want to do the test with the lights operating normally so I am going to have to open up the headlight so I can get to the left signal connection for the 12v connection and have the bulb installed. Then there will be no hyperflashing and I can get exact operation.

Sounds like the circuit is behaving like in a variable pulse width modulated mode. That can control perceived illuminator brilliance, and in the case of some high-tech LEDs, colour or colour temperature (measured in Kelvin).

Gold, new test setup is done and everything works properly. I’ll finish the project tomorrow, get the pics transferred to Photobucket (yeah I pay for it—sue me) and get them here.

Just so non techs know, I will explain how to read an o’scope so you can understand what you are seeing. It is NOT rocket science. Easy really. Heck, I can do it

Sounds exciting LPG (not Low Pressure Gas).

Makes me wonder a bit how Honda did back in the early 1980s?

[Cormanus]

Oh .. Liquid Petroleum Gas then.