16,000 Lumens Spot Lights to complement 2017 Led headlights

[peterbaron]

That moto camera business smells like Hollywood...and movie stars will soon pop up on the forum's red carpet = personal pics SVP

[17-CB-002]

Alain, I did not connect the manual switch and haven't decided if I'm going to connect the GPS so don't have to deal with those cables.

I also did not mount mine on the handlebars. I used the "put it in the tool box" option as I don't intend to watch the vids while riding. I can access them on the iPhone if I want to look at them.

Mounting the cameras--My bike has a Honda rack with a Givi box on the back and a Road Comet fairing on the front. For the rear camera I mounted the camera on the left side of the brake light-the chrome part, on the bevel line. After taking the light out for inspection, I put it back and drilled 1/16" holes and screwed the mount on. Yes, the screws are just long enough to go into the black part of the lens so I'll have to remove them to change a bulb.

In front, the fairing limits mounting options, in my case, so I ditched the camera "T-Mount" and use the handlebar mount for the display/recorder. I had to modify it slightly as the screw it uses does not work with the camera. So I drilled the non-threaded hole and the middle hole to fit the camera screw. I left the threaded hole alone so it can be used later if the needed. Then, I removed the 2 allen screws and reversed the mount on the handlebar mount. This was to keep the screw head on the outside of the bike so it would look better. I had to do that as I mounted the thing upside down. Then I mounted the handlebar mount on the right side of the bike on the base of the rubber part of the turn signal light. Then installed the camera on it.

Excess cable: I didn't have much excess camera cable after running them to the tool box and did not need to use the 2 meter cable. The power cable they supply is looong. For those not knowing, there is a little "power box" on the cable. One side has the power connections and the other has multipin plug for the display unit. Anyway, I cut the 3 wire side to length and the other I coiled up and it is pushed on top of the fuse panel under the frame cross brace. All the other excess is in the tool box with my small tool bag.

Connection power was easy in my case. Always on power (red wire) is connected to the + battery terminal. Ground and switched +12v I pulled from the accessory connector which is right under the tool box, under the fuse panel. As I have a connector kit, I pinned the 2 wires and plugged in the connector and tested it out. Tested good!!

I know you know this Alain. They also supply a power connecter with a USB port so you can power the unit on with a phone charger. That made it easy to play with the device and setting the options before mounting anything.

I did order the DashCam without the viewer screen (model B1M), however, it was backorder, plus the supplier upgraded to DV988 for the same price, a deal I cannot refuse. So being jealous of Peter Baron, I can have the "Rear View Mirror" option similar to his helmet
Great mind thinks alike! - I had the same intent to install the BlueSkySea B1N inside the toolbox and use the Iphone to view the video.

I strongly recommend to connect the manual switch since this will give you the option of taking pictures at will. My switch is mounted on my left side handlebar.

[mvk24_imp]

Hi MVK,
You already have the connector available there in the headlight bucket for that exact purpose. Other members bought the female connector to fit that "option" connector (there is a tread somewhere in this forum). This is is the supply power to your spot lights.
The headlight wire is required to power the switch side of the relay. - You do not want to leave the spot light "ON" by mistake and also to be legal with the law. - No spot light when on high beam.

This switch is also available without the M10 port.

Switch mounted to "Clutch Reservoir" clamp. (neat)

Very cool! I gotta try to find that switch. Do you happen to know what connector/wire im tapping off in the headlight bucket? Or pictures of how you did it yourself. I ordered the same lights as you this morning

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

[peterbaron]

Alain, I did not connect the manual switch and haven't decided if I'm going to connect the GPS so don't have to deal with those cables.

I also did not mount mine on the handlebars. I used the "put it in the tool box" option as I don't intend to watch the vids while riding. I can access them on the iPhone if I want to look at them.

Mounting the cameras--My bike has a Honda rack with a Givi box on the back and a Road Comet fairing on the front. For the rear camera I mounted the camera on the left side of the brake light-the chrome part, on the bevel line. After taking the light out for inspection, I put it back and drilled 1/16" holes and screwed the mount on. Yes, the screws are just long enough to go into the black part of the lens so I'll have to remove them to change a bulb.

In front, the fairing limits mounting options, in my case, so I ditched the camera "T-Mount" and use the handlebar mount for the display/recorder. I had to modify it slightly as the screw it uses does not work with the camera. So I drilled the non-threaded hole and the middle hole to fit the camera screw. I left the threaded hole alone so it can be used later if the needed. Then, I removed the 2 allen screws and reversed the mount on the handlebar mount. This was to keep the screw head on the outside of the bike so it would look better. I had to do that as I mounted the thing upside down. Then I mounted the handlebar mount on the right side of the bike on the base of the rubber part of the turn signal light. Then installed the camera on it.

Excess cable: I didn't have much excess camera cable after running them to the tool box and did not need to use the 2 meter cable. The power cable they supply is looong. For those not knowing, there is a little "power box" on the cable. One side has the power connections and the other has multipin plug for the display unit. Anyway, I cut the 3 wire side to length and the other I coiled up and it is pushed on top of the fuse panel under the frame cross brace. All the other excess is in the tool box with my small tool bag.

Connection power was easy in my case. Always on power (red wire) is connected to the + battery terminal. Ground and switched +12v I pulled from the accessory connector which is right under the tool box, under the fuse panel. As I have a connector kit, I pinned the 2 wires and plugged in the connector and tested it out. Tested good!!

I know you know this Alain. They also supply a power connecter with a USB port so you can power the unit on with a phone charger. That made it easy to play with the device and setting the options before mounting anything.

I did order the DashCam without the viewer screen (model B1M), however, it was backorder, plus the supplier upgraded to DV988 for the same price, a deal I cannot refuse. So being jealous of Peter Baron, I can have the "Rear View Mirror" option similar to his helmet
Great mind thinks alike! - I had the same intent to install the BlueSkySea B1N inside the toolbox and use the Iphone to view the video.

I strongly recommend to connect the manual switch since this will give you the option of taking pictures at will. My switch is mounted on my left side handlebar.

Hahaha, too late, from now on, I'll be riding just beside you to watch movies, news and riders behind us... 'cos I just bought the HJC new helmet without a rear view mirror, see below

[17-CB-002]

Alain, I did not connect the manual switch and haven't decided if I'm going to connect the GPS so don't have to deal with those cables.

I also did not mount mine on the handlebars. I used the "put it in the tool box" option as I don't intend to watch the vids while riding. I can access them on the iPhone if I want to look at them.

Mounting the cameras--My bike has a Honda rack with a Givi box on the back and a Road Comet fairing on the front. For the rear camera I mounted the camera on the left side of the brake light-the chrome part, on the bevel line. After taking the light out for inspection, I put it back and drilled 1/16" holes and screwed the mount on. Yes, the screws are just long enough to go into the black part of the lens so I'll have to remove them to change a bulb.

In front, the fairing limits mounting options, in my case, so I ditched the camera "T-Mount" and use the handlebar mount for the display/recorder. I had to modify it slightly as the screw it uses does not work with the camera. So I drilled the non-threaded hole and the middle hole to fit the camera screw. I left the threaded hole alone so it can be used later if the needed. Then, I removed the 2 allen screws and reversed the mount on the handlebar mount. This was to keep the screw head on the outside of the bike so it would look better. I had to do that as I mounted the thing upside down. Then I mounted the handlebar mount on the right side of the bike on the base of the rubber part of the turn signal light. Then installed the camera on it.

Excess cable: I didn't have much excess camera cable after running them to the tool box and did not need to use the 2 meter cable. The power cable they supply is looong. For those not knowing, there is a little "power box" on the cable. One side has the power connections and the other has multipin plug for the display unit. Anyway, I cut the 3 wire side to length and the other I coiled up and it is pushed on top of the fuse panel under the frame cross brace. All the other excess is in the tool box with my small tool bag.

Connection power was easy in my case. Always on power (red wire) is connected to the + battery terminal. Ground and switched +12v I pulled from the accessory connector which is right under the tool box, under the fuse panel. As I have a connector kit, I pinned the 2 wires and plugged in the connector and tested it out. Tested good!!

I know you know this Alain. They also supply a power connecter with a USB port so you can power the unit on with a phone charger. That made it easy to play with the device and setting the options before mounting anything.

I did order the DashCam without the viewer screen (model B1M), however, it was backorder, plus the supplier upgraded to DV988 for the same price, a deal I cannot refuse. So being jealous of Peter Baron, I can have the "Rear View Mirror" option similar to his helmet
Great mind thinks alike! - I had the same intent to install the BlueSkySea B1N inside the toolbox and use the Iphone to view the video.

I strongly recommend to connect the manual switch since this will give you the option of taking pictures at will. My switch is mounted on my left side handlebar.

Hahaha, too late, from now on, I'll be riding just beside you to watch movies, news and riders behind us... 'cos I just bought the HJC new helmet without a rear view mirror, see below

Hahaha, too late, from now on, I'll be riding just beside you to watch movies, news and riders behind us... 'cos I just bought the HJC new helmet without a rear view mirror, see below




Congrats - beautiful helmet & design

Regards
Alain

Also did you use a relay and fuse or did you just hardwire it to the switch?

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

Yes, will require separate fuse.
All power wires are available in the headlight bucket.

Hope it help
Regards
Alain Lee

Alain,

I have to ask about the hardware mounting your front camera to the mount. Mine did not come with a long screw and nut. Mine has a shorter screw that threads into one side of the camera clamp. Did yours come with that long screw?

Let me know of where you hide the extra long "Manual switch & GPS" wires.
I did hide mine behind the headlight bucket, but still looks ugly.
For the front camera, I riveted the lens base to the headlight bucket and
for the rear, I riveted it on the tail light lens cover.

Also, for the GPS "Time" setting, I selected the -4 hours for Toronto.

Do you have a write up for how you wired up the lights and switch? I've been wanting to add 2 fog/spot lights to my 2014 for awhile now

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

Hi MVK,
Since I installed quite a few accessories on the CB and I did not want to tamper with the factory wirings, I made an external "auxiliary" waterproof electrical box located between the rear shock and the air filter cover.

All my accessories (relays & fuses) goes through it.

Yes, will require separate fuse.
All power wires are available in the headlight bucket.

Hope it help
Regards
Alain Lee

Alain,

I have to ask about the hardware mounting your front camera to the mount. Mine did not come with a long screw and nut. Mine has a shorter screw that threads into one side of the camera clamp. Did yours come with that long screw?

Let me know of where you hide the extra long "Manual switch & GPS" wires.
I did hide mine behind the headlight bucket, but still looks ugly.
For the front camera, I riveted the lens base to the headlight bucket and
for the rear, I riveted it on the tail light lens cover.

Also, for the GPS "Time" setting, I selected the -4 hours for Toronto.

Do you have a write up for how you wired up the lights and switch? I've been wanting to add 2 fog/spot lights to my 2014 for awhile now

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

Hi MVK,
Since I installed quite a few accessories on the CB and I did not want to tamper with the factory wirings, I made an external "auxiliary" waterproof electrical box located between the rear shock and the air filter cover.

All my accessories (relays & fuses) goes through it. Very cool, i have looked into an external fuse box for my jeep in the past and now my Forester XT to clean up all the auxilary wiring running from the battery. This might be a good excuse to try it even though I only plan on running 1 pair of those 60w lights. I found them on Amazon for 41$ with prime shipping.

I suppose I will order one of those pre-made harnesses for 17$ to keep the relays and fuse nice and tidy as I've used them in the past on the subaru.

Did you use one of those handbag mounted switches?

I appreciate the advice above to run my power from the headlight bucket but I also don't want to mess with factory wiring.. (ask me how I know) damn jeeps lol

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

Yes, will require separate fuse.
All power wires are available in the headlight bucket.

Hope it help
Regards
Alain Lee

Alain,

I have to ask about the hardware mounting your front camera to the mount. Mine did not come with a long screw and nut. Mine has a shorter screw that threads into one side of the camera clamp. Did yours come with that long screw?

Let me know of where you hide the extra long "Manual switch & GPS" wires.
I did hide mine behind the headlight bucket, but still looks ugly.
For the front camera, I riveted the lens base to the headlight bucket and
for the rear, I riveted it on the tail light lens cover.

Also, for the GPS "Time" setting, I selected the -4 hours for Toronto.

Do you have a write up for how you wired up the lights and switch? I've been wanting to add 2 fog/spot lights to my 2014 for awhile now

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

Hi MVK,
Since I installed quite a few accessories on the CB and I did not want to tamper with the factory wirings, I made an external "auxiliary" waterproof electrical box located between the rear shock and the air filter cover.

All my accessories (relays & fuses) goes through it. Very cool, i have looked into an external fuse box for my jeep in the past and now my Forester XT to clean up all the auxilary wiring running from the battery. This might be a good excuse to try it even though I only plan on running 1 pair of those 60w lights. I found them on Amazon for 41$ with prime shipping.

I suppose I will order one of those pre-made harnesses for 17$ to keep the relays and fuse nice and tidy as I've used them in the past on the subaru.

Did you use one of those handbag mounted switches?

I appreciate the advice above to run my power from the headlight bucket but I also don't want to mess with factory wiring.. (ask me how I know) damn jeeps lol

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
What make/Model did you purchase - pictures?
Regards
Alain
So sorry MVK, I cannot find the tread mentioning the "option" 2-pin connector part number and where one can purchase it in the US.
I 've seen a few members mentioned it in this forum.
May be Lord Popgun, PB, The ferret or Cormanus can assist.

FYI, there are 2 "Option" connecter - one inside the headlight bucket and the second is located behind the left side side cover. (from memory this one is a 4 pin connector).

Regards
Alain

[Cormanus]

Popgun is the authority on where to get the connected and the tool to use.

[Lord Popgun]

I’ll post up the connector link later as I just got home. The 2010-13 model has 2 accessory connectors that are 2 pin. The ‘14 and later has a 2 pin accessory connector in the headlight shell and a 4 pin accessory connector back in the boot by the battery or behind the side cover. I’m not exactly sure on the ‘14 and above models. Have to look it up. If you are going to use that one you need (obviously) 4 pin shell even though you only need to use 2 pins.

You have to buy the shells, pins, rubber seals and some plugs for the unused pins and the crimp tool. And buy more pins than you need as they are kinda tricky to crimp properly and you will mess some up until you get the hang of it. They get crimped a couple of places. I think there are some photos on the site that show it. I think.

If you buy the kit it comes with everything—multiple shells, male and female pins, wire sealing plugs and unused pin hole sealing plugs and a pin release tool. The crimper is separate.
Here is a link to most of the connectors on our bikes. http://www.cycleterminal.com/hm-sealed-series-090.html

If you scroll down you can see the kit I bought. Or you can buy individual connectors. The crimp tool is not shown, but is listed toward the page bottom.

[peterbaron]

The set/box is the right answer.

[mvk24_imp]

I’ll post up the connector link later as I just got home. The 2010-13 model has 2 accessory connectors that are 2 pin. The ‘14 and later has a 2 pin accessory connector in the headlight shell and a 4 pin accessory connector back in the boot by the battery or behind the side cover. I’m not exactly sure on the ‘14 and above models. Have to look it up. If you are going to use that one you need (obviously) 4 pin shell even though you only need to use 2 pins.

You have to buy the shells, pins, rubber seals and some plugs for the unused pins and the crimp tool. And buy more pins than you need as they are kinda tricky to crimp properly and you will mess some up until you get the hang of it. They get crimped a couple of places. I think there are some photos on the site that show it. I think.

If you buy the kit it comes with everything—multiple shells, male and female pins, wire sealing plugs and unused pin hole sealing plugs and a pin release tool. The crimper is separate.
Here is a link to most of the connectors on our bikes. http://www.cycleterminal.com/hm-sealed-series-090.html

If you scroll down you can see the kit I bought. Or you can buy individual connectors. The crimp tool is not shown, but is listed toward the page bottom.

Very cool, so basically I would be making my own harness with a connector to just plug into the accessory plug thats already there?

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

[17-CB-002]

I’ll post up the connector link later as I just got home. The 2010-13 model has 2 accessory connectors that are 2 pin. The ‘14 and later has a 2 pin accessory connector in the headlight shell and a 4 pin accessory connector back in the boot by the battery or behind the side cover. I’m not exactly sure on the ‘14 and above models. Have to look it up. If you are going to use that one you need (obviously) 4 pin shell even though you only need to use 2 pins.

You have to buy the shells, pins, rubber seals and some plugs for the unused pins and the crimp tool. And buy more pins than you need as they are kinda tricky to crimp properly and you will mess some up until you get the hang of it. They get crimped a couple of places. I think there are some photos on the site that show it. I think.

If you buy the kit it comes with everything—multiple shells, male and female pins, wire sealing plugs and unused pin hole sealing plugs and a pin release tool. The crimper is separate.
Here is a link to most of the connectors on our bikes. http://www.cycleterminal.com/hm-sealed-series-090.html

If you scroll down you can see the kit I bought. Or you can buy individual connectors. The crimp tool is not shown, but is listed toward the page bottom.

Very cool, so basically I would be making my own harness with a connector to just plug into the accessory plug thats already there?

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

Very cool, so basically I would be making my own harness with a connector to just plug into the accessory plug thats already there?

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
That's correct, you have make a connector that will plug directly to the "option" plug inside the headlight bucket. (there's the "Power"(Black-Brown) and "ground" (Green) wire in that connector).
I've seen many members purchase only the 2-pin connector and they provided the 2P part number - you will have to search the Forum database.
Regards
Alain