Chain Lube Type and Frequency?

[Houtman_imp]

hi, all CB110 fan i found this vdo is good.

Thanks !

[Django]

I installed a CLS chain oiler 2 month and > 5,000 km ago at my CBF1000F.



No more lubing, cleaning or maintenance. Just refill the small oil reservoir every approx. 10,000 km. The chain stays clean.

https://cls-evo.de/productinfo/cls-evo-tour/?lang=en

Feel free to ask, if you would like to see more about how I installed it.

[Stichill_imp]

Django, what a great chain oiler. I've been interested in the Scott Oiler but I can't accept the different oils needed for different temperature ranges, because the dividing point is in the middle temperature of my climate. I would always have "the wrong oil" in the system.

The CLS system uses a pump and claims that there is no temperature dependency on the oil type.

Looks like about US $260 since we don't pay the VAT. I'm going to look for US importers, but if there aren't any it looks like CLS EVO has a web shop.

[tory_imp]

I installed a CLS chain oiler 2 month and > 5,000 km ago at my CBF1000F.



No more lubing, cleaning or maintenance. Just refill the small oil reservoir every approx. 10,000 km. The chain stays clean.

https://cls-evo.de/productinfo/cls-evo-tour/?lang=en

Feel free to ask, if you would like to see more about how I installed it.

it very cool
Thanks

[kennyw]

I will be the outlier.

While I change my oil religiously- that is because I understand the tight clearances of rings to cyl and cam journals.

I have never and will never lube an O-ring chain. The rollers are the main friction point and are internally lubed and sealed from outside environmental interference. Any friction from the end plates or teeth is only going to be exacerbated by grit stuck into whatever substance you guys are adding.

Please explain to me how externally lubing a roller contacting a sprocket tooth is helping anything?

Any initial speed difference is going to spin the internally lubricated roller. Anything caught between the roller and tooth (your lube and stuck to lube grit) is going to get ground down- removing material from both the tooth and sprocket. Any lube and grit that manages to make it between the outer sideplate and inner link is again only adding friction and wear.

I'm pretty sure all this exists just to sell product, both in lube and chain/sprocket.

If I am wrong- then I only am out by a few thousand miles. Chain and sprockets are easy and cheap.

IMO- a waste of time, money, and mess.... modern marketing..

It is lubricating the contact surface between the roller and sprocket only. Most roller chains have a hardened surface and sprockets have a softer surface compared to the chain. The lube slows down the wear and tear on the sprockets. The dirt and grime gets in between the surfaces either dry or lubed. The difference is the contaminates are going to cause less wear with proper lubrication because there is a thin film of oil between the sprocket and grime as it is crushed between the surfaces.

You are correct that not using a lube will only cost a few hundred dollars in maintenance to replace the chain and sprockets early. How early depends on what conditions you ride in.

I ride in the rain and on gravel roads. My chain will wear out faster than average compared to someone who never lets there bike out in those conditions. However, I still get 25-30K miles out of my well maintained chain. A lot less if I ignore it.

[PowerDubs_imp]

I will be the outlier.

While I change my oil religiously- that is because I understand the tight clearances of rings to cyl and cam journals.

I have never and will never lube an O-ring chain. The rollers are the main friction point and are internally lubed and sealed from outside environmental interference. Any friction from the end plates or teeth is only going to be exacerbated by grit stuck into whatever substance you guys are adding.

Please explain to me how externally lubing a roller contacting a sprocket tooth is helping anything?

Any initial speed difference is going to spin the internally lubricated roller. Anything caught between the roller and tooth (your lube and stuck to lube grit) is going to get ground down- removing material from both the tooth and sprocket. Any lube and grit that manages to make it between the outer sideplate and inner link is again only adding friction and wear.

I'm pretty sure all this exists just to sell product, both in lube and chain/sprocket.

If I am wrong- then I only am out by a few thousand miles. Chain and sprockets are easy and cheap.

IMO- a waste of time, money, and mess.... modern marketing..

It is lubricating the contact surface between the roller and sprocket only. Most roller chains have a hardened surface and sprockets have a softer surface compared to the chain. The lube slows down the wear and tear on the sprockets. The dirt and grime gets in between the surfaces either dry or lubed. The difference is the contaminates are going to cause less wear with proper lubrication because there is a thin film of oil between the sprocket and grime as it is crushed between the surfaces.

You are correct that not using a lube will only cost a few hundred dollars in maintenance to replace the chain and sprockets early. How early depends on what conditions you ride in.

I ride in the rain and on gravel roads. My chain will wear out faster than average compared to someone who never lets there bike out in those conditions. However, I still get 25-30K miles out of my well maintained chain. A lot less if I ignore it.

I've yet to see anything other than speculation on that.


I clean and lube my dirtbike chains but that is a complete different animal.

On the street bike, I see no need to add something which traps abrasive material.

I'm probably wrong.. but it doesn't matter either way. Just like some people won't accelerate because they want to save gas and tire life. To each their own...

[redbirds_imp]

I hit mine with a bit of Tirox chain lube every 300-400 miles just to provide lube on the rollers and sprockets. I like the Tirox because it does not attract dirt or grit.

[Stichill_imp]

Tirox looks interesting, redbirds. I'll have to try it out!

[Toddman_imp]

I'll chime in. I did somewhat of a test on an old 2003 ZX12R that I purchased new. Since the chain is o-ring sealed, I carried a 35mm plastic film case with plain jane bearing grease. I used WD40 to clean the chain and bearing grease for the lube. When the chain showed dry, a one inch section was dabbed with very little grease. It will distribute on it's own. I got 23k miles out of that chain. The ZX12 has a lot of power and i used the power regularly. I thought 23k was decent. The links started binding/seizing but the sprockets looked very good.

[Nortoon_imp]

Bought some Tirox Chain Wax as recommended in this thread. Canada's Fort Nine had it for $12.22 plus postage for the 14.8 ounce (420 gram) spray can. It was in my mail box the day after I ordered it.

Took the bike for a brief ride to warm the chain. Cleaned the chain and rear sprocket of all the old chain lubricant. Sprayed the Tirox on all sides of the chain. It worked as described drying quickly with a slight white colour. The rear wheel and chain turned freely.

Spent the next hour cleaning the old sticky style of lubricant off the rear rim and all those pretty spokes. Hopefully this will be the last time I will have to do this after every chain lube.

The spray can comes with pair of nitrate gloves and lots of warnings suggesting you don't breathe it, get it in your eyes, or on your skin or clothing. It contains heptane and isobutene. I took the warnings seriously and worn my safety glasses and the nitrate gloves. I usually wear nitrate gloves anyway while working on the chain and surrounding parts just to keep my hands clean.