Power Commander / Autotune trims

[Aussieflyer]

I think Beardy is on the money WRT calibrating the software to register 0% - 100%, an easy task.

Have been tinkering with my PCV and Autotune for a little while now. Since installing the Pipe-Masters 4 into 2 and straight through mufflers the bike developed a low end stutter just above idle. It was necessary to specify an air fuel ratio in the sub 5000 RPM range of 5% throttle position. To experiment I started with a safe AFR of 13.2 and the Autotune has definitely kicked in to feed more fuel to the engine. Appears that the exhaust had really leaned out the bottom end so the extra fuel has now eliminated the stutter. Below are a few photos showing the installation and fuel tables / maps that are currently loaded.

All neatly tucked away in the under seat storage compartment. Still has just enough room to hold my Stop and Go puncture repair kit with the mini air pump.



Some black electrical tape on the switch gear and a few paint dots aligned to the 10-20-40-60-80-100% throttle positions. Helps to hold a throttle position and let the RPMs climb so that the Autotune can do its thing.



Laptop connected to the PCV reading the fueling data.



My target air fuel ratios. Not as much thought put into it as you PowerDubs, think I'll apply some your targets and see what I get.



The adjustments made by the Autotune after a short test ride. Must do some more riding but it's uncomfortably cold this time of year.



The final resultant fuel map with the Autotune adjustments accepted. Showing some weird very rich fueling at 1500-1750 RPM in the 10% throttle position. Another ride and review of the data will show if it gets further adjustment by the Autotune



All good fun if you're interested in this aspect of the bike. None of it absolutely necessary and bike tune could be quickly dialed in at a dyno tune facility but I never do things the easy way

[PowerDubs_imp]

I think Beardy is on the money WRT calibrating the software to register 0% - 100%, an easy task.

Have been tinkering with my PCV and Autotune for a little while now. Since installing the Pipe-Masters 4 into 2 and straight through mufflers the bike developed a low end stutter just above idle. It was necessary to specify an air fuel ratio in the sub 5000 RPM range of 5% throttle position. To experiment I started with a safe AFR of 13.2 and the Autotune has definitely kicked in to feed more fuel to the engine. Appears that the exhaust had really leaned out the bottom end so the extra fuel has now eliminated the stutter. Below are a few photos showing the installation and fuel tables / maps that are currently loaded.

All neatly tucked away in the under seat storage compartment. Still has just enough room to hold my Stop and Go puncture repair kit with the mini air pump.



Some black electrical tape on the switch gear and a few paint dots aligned to the 10-20-40-60-80-100% throttle positions. Helps to hold a throttle position and let the RPMs climb so that the Autotune can do its thing.



Laptop connected to the PCV reading the fueling data.



My target air fuel ratios. Not as much thought put into it as you PowerDubs, think I'll apply some your targets and see what I get.



The adjustments made by the Autotune after a short test ride. Must do some more riding but it's uncomfortably cold this time of year.



The final resultant fuel map with the Autotune adjustments accepted. Showing some weird very rich fueling at 1500-1750 RPM in the 10% throttle position. Another ride and review of the data will show if it gets further adjustment by the Autotune



All good fun if you're interested in this aspect of the bike. None of it absolutely necessary and bike tune could be quickly dialed in at a dyno tune facility but I never do things the easy way

My target map is continuously changing. Especially now with my pod display letting me see what is going on in real time.






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[beardyweirdy@me.com_imp]

Nice Post Aussieflyer,

Similar ground to what I've been covering.
I too had a stutter between 1500-3000rpm, which I've been working on. Much better now, due to TPS reset and Target AFR's tin the lower TPS and RPM range.

Those massive Autotune Trims in the 10% column are really odd and probably not right. If you've put a new pipe on, it could be the less restrictive muffler letting air back down the pipe on the overrun and making the O2 Sensor miss-read.

Esp. if the bung for the sensor is closer to the end of the pipe than previously.

I did a track day just after fitting my Autotune, and took the laptop along, as I thought it would be a great place to set it up.

After every session I'd apply the trims and on the way home, dawdling at low revs, it was bogging down. Insanely rich. I popped into a service station and reset the AT to the original map and it was perfect again.

General consensus was that as I was thrashing it, at max revs and heavily rolling off the throttle (Slamming it shut really), the pipe was drawing air back in and foxing the O2 Sensor.
Sounds fair enough to me, and although not proven, did sound plausible.

Just mentioning it as I'd watch out for wild trims that pop up randomly. I now ignore anything over 20 and set them back to 0. Then keep an eye on it next time...
Hey Josh, the TPS calibration is fairly straight forward. You just connect the laptop and choose TPS Calibration from the top menus.

Reset it and roll the twist grip from open to closed.

There is some chat, on forums, that you should have the engine running to do it. Not sure why and there is a bit of disagreement. I've done it both ways, with no noticeable difference.