Clutch Cover Removal - How To Break Goo Seal ???

[markT_imp]

Hi Guys,
The finish on my clutch cover is not quite right.
Honda have sent a new one out for me to swap over.

Got all the 8mm bolts off fine - but there is no gasket holding it to the crank case - only black sealant.

How do I break that sealant joint without damaging either casing or cover please??

Can't see any pry point & anything which would dissolve the sealant will probs affect finish of other parts.

What does the factory service manual say you should do?

Would heating the joint with hot air gun soften the goo enough?

Is there a factory puller tool?

Anyone succeeded (how) or anything to avoid from failed attempts.

Many Thanks from Mark

[the Ferret]

I've not pulled one, but you might try a nylon hammer tapping around the edge, or a rubber mallet. I wouldn't stick anything in there to pry it off with.

[2017EX_imp]

Mark, The Shop Manual just says loosen bolts in a criss cross pattern in two or three steps, then remove bolts, wire clamps, and clutch cover. Then it says remove any sealant from clutch cover mating surfaces ( be careful not to damage mating surfaces ). ( Use a plastic scraper) That is all the book gives you.

What I have done in the past to break those kinds of seals loose, is a rubber mallet, striking downward on the top edge of the cover. It usually does not take very hard hits, more like taps. The head surface of the mallet should be absolutely clean and smooth, with no embedded dirt or grit. I usually will tape off the surface I am going to hit with blue painters tape just as an ounce of prevention. If the painters tape does not hold up to being hit, I then use duct tape, but that requires going back later with non abrasive white GOJO hand cleaner jell to remove the tape adhesive residue. Remove the oil filler cap before starting with the mallet.

Just take your time, and be careful. I use my free hand to support the bottom of the cover in case it suddenly pops off, so it wont hit the floor, while using the mallet in the other hand. The cover does not show any locating pins, just bolts.

[markT_imp]

Thanks Chaps,

Good reassurance there.

I eventually got it loose at rear lower edge and it peeled off fine.

Quite a fiddle to smear the new black goo all round the mating surface in a thin even line !!!

Anyhow it is all back together with the new cover in place - left to harden over night before I put the oil back in and see if I am still leak tight.

Honda gave me a list of the torque settings but I can't see the one for the 10 or so 8mm head flanged bolts that hold the cover down.

I went for 10 n/m as a reasonable starting torque.

Can anyone spot the definitive figure in case I need to nip them up a bit more please?

Thanks for looking.

[Lord Popgun]

There is no specified value for those bolts. Read this post for explanation, and the imgur link in the next post for the standard torque value table.

http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread....#pid204074

[2017EX_imp]

As other have said, no torque specified specific to the clutch cover bolts. The Standard torque Vales table in the front of the Shop Manual shows 6mm flange bolt ( 8MM head, SMALL flange ) at 10 N.M.... those are like the handle bar clamps for the master cylinders. The clutch cover bolts are 6mm flange ( 8mm head, LARGE flange ), and the table shows 12 N.M torque for those.

[markT_imp]

Thanks Guys
Good info & images as usual.

Did anyone else get a kind of tide mark in the silver finish on their clutch covers??

I was wondering if the finish had reacted with the protective sticker that goes on there from factory.

Any thoughts??

I will try & put a pic up - of how mine came.



. . . and no it don't polish out !!! I tried :-( :-(

[Nortoon_imp]

Thanks Chaps,

Good reassurance there.

I eventually got it loose at rear lower edge and it peeled off fine.

Quite a fiddle to smear the new black goo all round the mating surface in a thin even line !!!

Anyhow it is all back together with the new cover in place - left to harden over night before I put the oil back in and see if I am still leak tight.

Honda gave me a list of the torque settings but I can't see the one for the 10 or so 8mm head flanged bolts that hold the cover down.

I went for 10 n/m as a reasonable starting torque.

Can anyone spot the definitive figure in case I need to nip them up a bit more please?

Thanks for looking.

I learned after re-assembling a couple of BSA motorcycles how to spread a clean case seal. In my case it was Red Hermetite for the crankcase halves.

The tool is a artist's brush about 1/4 inch wide with stiff bristles cut flat. The first pass of the sealant is very thin and may have some bare streaks in it. Leave it to get tacky, as it just to give the second coat something to grab onto. The second thin coat will be smooth with no streaks. Leave it to get tacky before pushing the cases together.

By using two thin tacky coats, the sealant will not squish out onto the cases.

[tuareg_imp]

Thanks Guys
Good info & images as usual.

Did anyone else get a kind of tide mark in the silver finish on their clutch covers??

I was wondering if the finish had reacted with the protective sticker that goes on there from factory.

Any thoughts??

I will try & put a pic up - of how mine came.



. . . and no it don't polish out !!! I tried :-( :-(

This is the old clutch cover, right?
I guess it's just a bad paint job, markT. Probably clearcoat was too thin at places and the dull basecoat layer is showing through. I can't see from the picture if the waterline edges are smooth or not, but if they're smooth it's thin clearcoat. If rough, the sticker ripped away -or reacted with- some clearcoat. In any case it should be good as new with some light sanding and spraying anyway.

[BayAreaRick_imp]

This is an excerpt from Motorcycle Consumer News. Just two pages, hope it helps - It's their article on Clutch Inspection.

-Rick