Does my 2013 CB100 REALLY have no clutch adjustment?

[jtopiso_imp]

I put on the Honda heated grips years ago. I don 't recall if they included new rubber, or not. This arthritis thing wasn't an issue then.

Since #2 allows the clutch to completely disengage, I will have to adjust to that. And shift less frequently. Or get an Africa Twin DCT of 750-DCT.

But I love my CB!

I'dont know if you'll be able to find it, but a bigger master cylinder for the clutch will require less lever stroke to get the same clutch travel on the other end.

Less travel will mean more force, as total work must be constant.
(Work = Force x Distance).
Shorter travel will also mean a more abrupt clutch engagement

It's easy to calculate the effect of changing from one MC diameter to another (in terms of stroke and force). Ask if you need help.

The hard part might be to find a compatible MC for your CB. Don't know about this...

I'dont know if you'll be able to find it, but a bigger master cylinder for the clutch will require less lever stroke to get the same clutch travel on the other end.

Less travel will mean more force, as total work must be constant.
(Work = Force x Distance).
Shorter travel will also mean a more abrupt clutch engagement

It's easy to calculate the effect of changing from one MC diameter to another (in terms of stroke and force). Ask if you need help.

The hard part might be to find a compatible MC for your CB. Don't know about this...
Forgot to add:
Also, instead of increasing the diameter of the Master cylinder, you can reduce the diameter on the slave cylinder.

I don't know how the mechanisim is on the clutch side. I guess the slave hydraulic piston acts on a lever that acts on the clutch. If this is the case, shortening that lever will also reduce the stroke required at the master side.

[pdedse]

I put on the Honda heated grips years ago. I don 't recall if they included new rubber, or not. This arthritis thing wasn't an issue then.

Since #2 allows the clutch to completely disengage, I will have to adjust to that. And shift less frequently. Or get an Africa Twin DCT of 750-DCT.

But I love my CB!

The heated grips are always a bit fatter. It's trading one discomfort for another.
since there is only a little difference between adjustments 1 & 2, you may be able to cheat a bit.

Even with a hydraulic clutch, there is some freeplay, more than the lever adjustment, about 5/8" -3/4" at the ball end. There always needs to be some freeplay, but with hydraulics, it doesn't vary like a cable, so you could fine-tune it a bit. If you effectively "lengthen" the rod that the lever engages, it would take up some freeplay.

If you were curious enough to experiment a bit, you could put little wads of aluminum foil in the hole of the brass lever pivot barrel, and it would space it out. Sounds weird, but it is easily done, easily reversible, and costs nothing.

Reason no.17 why I really enjoy this site...you get so many practical tips for improving, maintaining, fixing our CB1100s.

[Obleo]

I still am amazed at the wealth of knowledge that available here. I greatly enjoy the discussions , and have learned a lot from you folks. I am so glad I discovered this forum 8 years ago.

[pekingduck]

I put on the Honda heated grips years ago. I don 't recall if they included new rubber, or not. This arthritis thing wasn't an issue then.

Since #2 allows the clutch to completely disengage, I will have to adjust to that. And shift less frequently. Or get an Africa Twin DCT of 750-DCT.

But I love my CB!

I'dont know if you'll be able to find it, but a bigger master cylinder for the clutch will require less lever stroke to get the same clutch travel on the other end.

Less travel will mean more force, as total work must be constant.
(Work = Force x Distance).
Shorter travel will also mean a more abrupt clutch engagement

It's easy to calculate the effect of changing from one MC diameter to another (in terms of stroke and force). Ask if you need help.

The hard part might be to find a compatible MC for your CB. Don't know about this...

I'dont know if you'll be able to find it, but a bigger master cylinder for the clutch will require less lever stroke to get the same clutch travel on the other end.

Less travel will mean more force, as total work must be constant.
(Work = Force x Distance).
Shorter travel will also mean a more abrupt clutch engagement

It's easy to calculate the effect of changing from one MC diameter to another (in terms of stroke and force). Ask if you need help.

The hard part might be to find a compatible MC for your CB. Don't know about this...
Forgot to add:
Also, instead of increasing the diameter of the Master cylinder, you can reduce the diameter on the slave cylinder.

I don't know how the mechanisim is on the clutch side. I guess the slave hydraulic piston acts on a lever that acts on the clutch. If this is the case, shortening that lever will also reduce the stroke required at the master side.

I'dont know if you'll be able to find it, but a bigger master cylinder for the clutch will require less lever stroke to get the same clutch travel on the other end.

Less travel will mean more force, as total work must be constant.
(Work = Force x Distance).
Shorter travel will also mean a more abrupt clutch engagement

It's easy to calculate the effect of changing from one MC diameter to another (in terms of stroke and force). Ask if you need help.

The hard part might be to find a compatible MC for your CB. Don't know about this...
Forgot to add:
Also, instead of increasing the diameter of the Master cylinder, you can reduce the diameter on the slave cylinder.

I don't know how the mechanism is on the clutch side. I guess the slave hydraulic piston acts on a lever that acts on the clutch. If this is the case, shortening that lever will also reduce the stroke required at the master side.
The clutch slave cylinder is on the left side of most Japanese bikes, pushes a long thin pushrod that goes through the forward transmission shaft, and pushes against a plate that has been compressing the clutch together with springs. No lever used.

But you bring up an interesting point about the slave cylinder. Almost all of the Honda clutch slave cylinders look alike, with the same offset 3-bolt mounting pattern since the mid-'80s. All made by Nissin.

And many of them on other Japanese brands are also the same pattern, which suggests that there is a lot of interchangeability. Never explored that route, but a good idea.