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Can't find my Honda Service Manual to answer this question. Too much clutter in the shop!
I don't see any adjustment nut on the brake lever. I have adjustable levers, but I need to tighten the clutch cable itself. With the clutch fully disengaged (lever pulled to the bars) I get a slight engine noise which I know to be the clutch slipping.
And, another question: Is the threaded rod attached to the shift pedal anything more than a fine-adjustment for the lever position itself?
Inquiring minds want to know...
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Your clutch and brakes are both hydraulic, there is no adjustment, similar to a cable. You say the clutch is slipping with the lever pulled to the bars? (no comment) What kind of engine noise are you hearing? Do you have the proper free play at the lever? If not, it's possible the master cylinder has a blockage that is preventing the clutch from fully engaging and causing it to slip (when the lever is not pulled to the bars).
And, another question: Is the threaded rod attached to the shift pedal anything more than a fine-adjustment for the lever position itself?
Yes.
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Dave said what needs to be said. I am curious to know about the noise you are hearing, clutch slipping on idle? If your bike is on the center stand and you drop it in first gear is the wheel creeping (or just plain turning), and if yes is it different then when in neutral? Unfortunately I've changed my levers so they are both definitely adjustable, I don't remember what the original ones were like.
Also, I know that I wasn't able to change the position of the gear pedal regardless of the the fact that there is a threaded rod and it's common sense that it should be adjustable.
'14 CB1100 STD 5 speed
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(09-22-2021, 03:30 AM)Dave_imp Wrote: Your clutch and brakes are both hydraulic, there is no adjustment, similar to a cable. You say the clutch is slipping with the lever pulled to the bars? (no comment) What kind of engine noise are you hearing? Do you have the proper free play at the lever? If not, it's possible the master cylinder has a blockage that is preventing the clutch from fully engaging and causing it to slip (when the lever is not pulled to the bars).
And, another question: Is the threaded rod attached to the shift pedal anything more than a fine-adjustment for the lever position itself?
Yes.
The adjustable lever has five possible positions. Numbered 1-5. Position #1 moves the lever closest to the handlebar (the shortest possible reach for my hand) but there isn't that much difference among the five choices. However, due to rapidly increasing osteoarthritis in my left hand, I need any advantage available. In position #1, when I have squeezed the clutch lever all the way to my handlebar, the engine "noise" is a noticeable small surge that cycles about once per second. With zero throttle input. The bike will move ahead slowly in first gear without the brakes being applied. If I move the adjustable lever from #1 to #2 the problem disappears, but it is very uncomfortable for my hand. So my hypothesis is: In position #1, the clutch isn't completely disengaged because of the shorter travel distance. That goes away with the "longer pulls" of #2 through #5. "IF" there were an adjustment in the clutch itself then my problem would be solved.
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The adjustable lever has five possible positions. Numbered 1-5. Position #1 moves the lever closest to the handlebar (the shortest possible reach for my hand) but there isn't that much difference among the five choices. However, due to rapidly increasing osteoarthritis in my left hand, I need any advantage available. In position #1, when I have squeezed the clutch lever all the way to my handlebar, the engine "noise" is a noticeable small surge that cycles about once per second. With zero throttle input. The bike will move ahead slowly in first gear without the brakes being applied. If I move the adjustable lever from #1 to #2 the problem disappears, but it is very uncomfortable for my hand. So my hypothesis is: In position #1, the clutch isn't completely disengaged because of the shorter travel distance. That goes away with the "longer pulls" of #2 through #5. "IF" there were an adjustment in the clutch itself then my problem would be solved.
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If position #1 does not allow the clutch to disengage fully. and you can't reach the lever comfortably in another position, there is no further stock adjustments that can be made. Do you by chance have non-original grips that may be fatter, thus limiting the lever throw when pulled in fully?
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I put on the Honda heated grips years ago. I don 't recall if they included new rubber, or not. This arthritis thing wasn't an issue then.
Since #2 allows the clutch to completely disengage, I will have to adjust to that. And shift less frequently. Or get an Africa Twin DCT of 750-DCT.
But I love my CB!
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(09-22-2021, 06:25 AM)Olyrider_imp Wrote: I put on the Honda heated grips years ago. I don 't recall if they included new rubber, or not. This arthritis thing wasn't an issue then.
Since #2 allows the clutch to completely disengage, I will have to adjust to that. And shift less frequently. Or get an Africa Twin DCT of 750-DCT.
But I love my CB!
The heated grips are always a bit fatter. It's trading one discomfort for another.
since there is only a little difference between adjustments 1 & 2, you may be able to cheat a bit.
Even with a hydraulic clutch, there is some freeplay, more than the lever adjustment, about 5/8" -3/4" at the ball end. There always needs to be some freeplay, but with hydraulics, it doesn't vary like a cable, so you could fine-tune it a bit. If you effectively "lengthen" the rod that the lever engages, it would take up some freeplay.
If you were curious enough to experiment a bit, you could put little wads of aluminum foil in the hole of the brass lever pivot barrel, and it would space it out. Sounds weird, but it is easily done, easily reversible, and costs nothing.
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(09-22-2021, 06:25 AM)Olyrider_imp Wrote: I put on the Honda heated grips years ago. I don 't recall if they included new rubber, or not. This arthritis thing wasn't an issue then.
Since #2 allows the clutch to completely disengage, I will have to adjust to that. And shift less frequently. Or get an Africa Twin DCT of 750-DCT.
But I love my CB!
I'dont know if you'll be able to find it, but a bigger master cylinder for the clutch will require less lever stroke to get the same clutch travel on the other end.
Less travel will mean more force, as total work must be constant.
(Work = Force x Distance).
Shorter travel will also mean a more abrupt clutch engagement
It's easy to calculate the effect of changing from one MC diameter to another (in terms of stroke and force). Ask if you need help.
The hard part might be to find a compatible MC for your CB. Don't know about this...
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pekingduck has the right idea, I have seen this used a few times to good effect.
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(09-22-2021, 05:40 PM)jtopiso_imp Wrote: (09-22-2021, 06:25 AM)Olyrider_imp Wrote: I put on the Honda heated grips years ago. I don 't recall if they included new rubber, or not. This arthritis thing wasn't an issue then.
Since #2 allows the clutch to completely disengage, I will have to adjust to that. And shift less frequently. Or get an Africa Twin DCT of 750-DCT.
But I love my CB!
I'dont know if you'll be able to find it, but a bigger master cylinder for the clutch will require less lever stroke to get the same clutch travel on the other end.
Less travel will mean more force, as total work must be constant.
(Work = Force x Distance).
Shorter travel will also mean a more abrupt clutch engagement
It's easy to calculate the effect of changing from one MC diameter to another (in terms of stroke and force). Ask if you need help.
The hard part might be to find a compatible MC for your CB. Don't know about this...
I'dont know if you'll be able to find it, but a bigger master cylinder for the clutch will require less lever stroke to get the same clutch travel on the other end.
Less travel will mean more force, as total work must be constant.H
(Work = Force x Distance).
Shorter travel will also mean a more abrupt clutch engagement
It's easy to calculate the effect of changing from one MC diameter to another (in terms of stroke and force). Ask if you need help.
The hard part might be to find a compatible MC for your CB. Don't know about this...
All true. This brings us back to the 2017 EX's lighter clutch pull, care of the assist clutch. That would be the perfect combination, but would likely require a bit more finesse though. There is added info at:
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=16721
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=15179
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