....or the best that I can come up with lol.

There is a confusing and convoluted chart in the owners manual, page 21. I could draw out the chart for publication here, but I decided to take a pic of the one in the owners manual. I don't think this will violate any copywrited material issues, but will let Guth make that call. In the interest of clearing up confusion about these gauges I think showing the chart is necessary. It's a complicated and crazy system.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/image_zpsfjjur9vr.jpeg.html]

Lets follow the arrow on the diagram, shall we?

(all of this btw is controlled by the pushing the small black button on the left on gauge package under the speedometer on 2014 stds and 2014 dlxs).

Starting with our odometer which shows the total number of miles on the motorcycle [this can never be reset and will accumulate for the life of the motorcycle], in the case of Honda's diagram this motorcycle has 1225 miles on it....

Push the small black button once and you get Trip A

Honda's example shows you have gone 500 miles since the last time Trip A was reset. Press the button again and you get average fuel mileage since trip A was last reset..in this case 50 mpg. Press the button again and you get fuel consumption for Trip A since the last time Trip A was reset, in this case 10 gallons

[so in Hondas example, since the last time Trip A was reset, you went 500 miles , used 10 gallons of gas and averaged 50 mpg..ie: 500 miles divided by 10 gals of gas=50mpg].

Press the black button again and you get TRIP B

This shows the same exact information as Trip A only since the last time the Trip B button was reset. In Hondas sample Trip B was reset 250 miles ago. Press the button again and you get average fuel mileage on that 250 miles. Again on Hondas sample we averaged 50 mpg. Press it again and you get total fuel consumed on Trip B since it was last reset, in this case 5 Gals..

[so on the Trip B meter, it was reset 250 miles ago and in the last 250 miles you used 5 gals of fuel for an average of 50 mpg..ie: 250 miles on 5 gals of fuel =50 mpg]

[*Note unlike Honda's example, it is highly unlikely you will get the exact same ave mpg figure for Trip A and Trip B, in my experience, unless you reset them at the exact same time]

Press the black button again and you get current fuel mileage

Press it again and you will be back to the odometer and start the cycle all over again

Once you get down to 1 bar remaining on the fuel gauge, and that bar starts flashing, according to the chart the display moves to the available driving distance ie : how far you can go before pushing.

by pushing the black button again you will get amount of fuel remaining before pushing

According to the manual of the 14 std when the bar starts flashing you have .9 US gallons left. On the 14 DLX you have 1.1 US gallons left

OK.. so the TRIP A and TRIP B modes can be reset anytime, by going to that mode, and pushing and holding the left black button for approx. 2 seconds. This can be done separately and independently for each mode. You can zero Trip A and it won't affect Trip B or vice versa.

For example: I use trip A for my daily ride mileage which I record and then reset TRIP A every morning.

I use Trip B for total miles on a tank of gas which I reset only when I refill the fuel tank. I know from experience I can go over 220 miles on a tank of gas, so whenever I'm out riding and before the last bar starts flashing, I can check Trip B and know how close I am to really needing gas.

note: also..I would swear that my gauge flashes back and forth between available driving distance and odometer once it goes to the available driving distance mode. Now I have to go nearly run out of gas to verify lol

Sparky and I had the pleasure of meeting up with Motogeezer, his son and other cheerful traveling companions in McRae, GA. They're on their way to North Carolina for some fun in the mountains.

After some introductions at their hotel we dined at a local Mexican restaurant, El Patron. The food, service and adult beverages were fine and the splendid company of fellow riders could not have been better. Made us wish that we were traveling with them.

No CB1100's were to be seen as Motogeezer had decided to take his Yamaha and Sparky and I had arrived via cage, not wanting to face the long ride home on dark roads while watching for deer.











Margaritas were of an ample size for thirsty riders











It was a fine evening. Have a good trip.

Today we took a ride to an apple orchard and winery/distillery in southeast Wisconsin. We have taken this ride a few times over the past few years and I believe I have written about it here. This was a little different because one of our riding friends, Linda, would be leading her first (I think) group ride. The group was small; just Linda, her fiancé Scott, Cheryl, and myself. She designed a very nice route for us that included breakfast at Manny's Snack Shack in Twin Lakes (highly recommend this place, by the way), and a meandering route on the roads of Walworth, Jefferson, and Kenosha counties. Total distance was about 175 miles and we were back home mid-afternoon. The weather was absolutely perfect; sunny and about 75 degrees. That is not typical of this area at this time of year. Oh, and by the way, the Moto-Skiveez "adventure underwear" worked great. I will reserve a full report on that for after I do our fall color ride in mid-October.

Great ride with great people to a great destination on a great day....and I forgot my camera. So, here is the only picture I have from the ride and, in the end, maybe it's really the only picture needed.

So I was riding today, and for the first time I was on the last mark for the gas gage, and it started flashing. I take it to the gas station and only manage to get 2.7 gallons in her. Isn't the tank nearly 4 gallons? I thought it would take 3.4-3.7 gallons if it was low enough to flash.

I removed the seat and the luggage tray/toolkit bin. The next step says to disconnect the electrical connector for the tail light.

Can someone please point out where the electrical connector is? I see a bunch of wires and I'm sure it's located in that bundle (bottom left of the photo), but there's this clear rubber sheath that wraps around it. How to I remove that rubber sheath? Should I just cut it with scissors?

I took a pic:
Thanks in advance.

Exactly one year ago, today, I brought home my CB1100 Standard. What an exciting and happy day that was! My love for this motorcycle has only grown over the past year.

In preparation for tomorrow's Distinguished Gentleman's Ride, I gave the CB a good cleaning and safety check. In the one year since bringing her home, I've clocked 6005 miles on the odometer. That pales in comparison to some of the mileage you guys are putting up but I feel it's a respectable number. I look forward to surpassing that number this time next year.

Happy Birthday CB!

Today was a service day on my bike as it was due for an oil change. Right now it sits at 16,458 miles.



I have already done tutes on doing the 600 mile service of the 13 and the 14 dlx

[url=http://www.cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=202]http://www.cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=202

http://www.cb1100forum.com/forum/showthr...p?tid=2708

but while doing todays service, I took some additional pics I thought would be helpful to other forum members. Like I said the oil filter change has been covered before so I won't repeat that, but

EVAP TUBES

Whenever you do a service on your bike, there are two emissions evap tubes that need to be checked. One is down by the side stand on the lower left side of the motorcycle. When I checked it today it was clear. I have never actually found any fluid in this tube on my 1100, but I had to drain the tube on my 750 Nighthawk fairly often.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20011_zps4r4wdpgq.jpg.html]

However the drain tube near the bottom of the air box had fluid in in today, so I squeezed the spring clamp and removed the whole tube, rather than trying to drain it at the plugged end (tight fit between motor block, air cleaner and fi bodies and that bottom clamp and plug are TIGHT and hard to remove) and poured the fluid out. Then replaced the tube and the spring clamp. This was covered in the first 600 miles service tute, but today I could actually show some of the fluid that collects.


[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20008_zpsiswe34j1.jpg.html]

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20010_zpsyipatpnz.jpg.html]

BTW...This is the second time I have found some fluid in this tube.

CONDENSATION DRAIN HOLES

After changing the oil, I fired it up, made sure the oil light on the dash went out, which it did in less than a second, and verified condensation was dripping out of the drain holes in both pipes (on a dlx model), as evidenced by the puddles on the cardboard protecting the garage floor. These drain holes should be free and clear allowing moisture to escape and prevent rusting of the pipes from the inside. Someone had commented on this before (Chapomis?) so thought I would show the drain holes and the amount of fluid that can drip out)

drain hole

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20005_zpsu8zh33vd.jpg.html]

left pipe

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20012_zps3lh7vgh7.jpg.html]

right pipe

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20013_zpsonnzdapn.jpg.html]

OIL LEVEL

After a 4 minute warm up I shut it off, let it drain for 4 minutes and then checked the level. Right at the top line as you can see in the photo below. Now, as per my usual practice I had drained 4 ounces of oil into a cup from a fresh gallon of Honda GN4 10W 30, and had put the rest in the motor. So, I used 3 qts 28 oz of oil. Honda calls for 4.1 qts when changing the oil and filter. If I use a whole gallon my oil is over filled as evidenced by completely covering the site glass. So I start with less.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20007_zpslcpao9lu.jpg.html]

After I take it for a ride, I will pop it on the center stand in the same place, again let it sit for 4 or 5 mins, then check the oil level again. If it is low, I will add one ounce at a time keeping it level with the line on the side of the motor case. *Note others have used a whole gallon and been right at the line. Not sure why mine is different, but I have never had to use a whole gallon of oil even letting the old oil drain out for a couple of hours, like I did today.

CHAIN SLACK

This is my chain slack measuring tool. Wasn't my idea, I got it from someone else on this board over 2 years ago, then modified his idea a bit. Great idea! Simply a block of wood with a dowel mounted in it on an angle matching the chain run, and 2 small rubber bands.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20001_zpsz9nok7gd.jpg.html]

The rubber bands on mine I spaced 1 1/8" apart (1.125").

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20019_zpstiytblal.jpg.html]

This is adjustable by rolling the bands up or down the dowel. Spec for the slack on our bikes calls for 1"-1.4" measured halfway between the front and rear sprockets, at the tightest spot in the chain. What I do is after checking 4 or 5 places on the chain to see if one is any tighter than the other, place the tightest spot (if you have one..mine felt the same) in the center of the bottom run, slide the tool up against the chain until it meets the CENTER of the pins in one link. Then push up from the bottom of the chain next to the dowel, to see if the center of the pin on that link goes above or below the top rubber band. If it is above the band the chain needs adjustment, if it is below the top rubber band it is ok. Mine is still ok. It has not needed adjustment in 8,000 miles. I'm guessing next oil change it will need some tightening.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/Sept%202015%20020_zpspjmn5rm6.jpg.html]

BRAKES

Use a small mirror and a flashlight to help you gauge how much brake pads you have left. At 16,000 miles I was beginning to worry that my pads might be getting low. Checked both front and rear brakes This little visual trick eased my mind. Still plenty of pad left all around. Maybe at 20,000 or 25,000 miles? I already have them in my stock whenever they are needed (along with spark plugs, an air cleaner and several oil filters and crush washers).

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20016_zpsa1cmlbfq.jpg.html]

RECORD KEEPING

Be sure and record the mileage on any services done especially if the bike is under warranty, but for your own records as well... so you can look and tell immediately when the last oil change was, how many miles are on your tires, when you last replaced the front brakes, or battery or whatever (notice I now have close to 8,000 miles on my PR3s which I out on at 8,543 miles)

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20010_zpsxesxz0qz.jpg.html]

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/16458%20mile%20service%20011_zpsses0cifs.jpg.html]

Hope this helps someone who might be wondering.....



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Ch 219 pre race 7;30 race 8-9 am

Things are about to get real interesting

Marc Marquez obliterated his own record on the way to claiming his 7th pole of the season ahead of Jorge Lorenzo and Andrea Iannone.

Repsol Honda’s Marquez set the fastest ever lap by a MotoGP bike around the 5km MotorLand Aragon circuit as he claimed his 29th premier class pole position in a thrilling Q2 session. The Spaniard made the most of ideal conditions (Track temp. 38˚C) at the Gran Premio Movistar de Aragón to set a 1’46.635 on his first run to completely annihilate his own 2014 Pole Record (1’47.187) in the process by over half a second. The reigning MotoGP World Champion utilised a two-stop strategy and appeared to be going even quicker on his third run before he lost the front at turn 2, walking away unhurt.

Movistar Yamaha’s Jorge Lorenzo, who had earlier topped FP3 after dominating on Friday, was the only rider to get within 0.5s of Marquez. Lorenzo finished 0.108s off the pace of Marquez as he attempts to close the 23-point gap in the standings to his teammate Valentino Rossi. Lorenzo was the only other rider to break the 1’47 barrier as he claimed his 11th front row start of the season and 6th in a row.

Ducati Team’s Andrea Iannone pulled off the surprise of the day to complete the front row despite riding through the pain barrier. The Italian re-dislocated his left shoulder in a training accident after Misano but managed to set a time good enough to secure his fourth front row start of the season and first since Mugello. Incredibly though, he was over half a second off the pace off Marquez as 0.543s separated the top three riders.

Monster Yamaha Tech 3’s Pol Espargaro (+0.699s) put in a sensational lap to start from the front of the second row in fourth as the leading Satellite rider. This equalled the Spaniards best qualifying performance of the season at Jerez.

Repsol Honda’s Dani Pedrosa (+0.722s) had topped the earlier FP4 session but will start Sunday’s race from fifth. Pedrosa had found himself on the provisional front row after the first run but could only improve by three-hundredths of a second on his second run and will have to start from the middle of the second row.

Movistar Yamaha’s championship leader Rossi (+0.857s) was staring down the barrel of a third row start before he managed to respond on his final lap to set a time good enough for sixth. The nine-time World Champion found himself 0.749s off the pace off his closest rival Lorenzo in what was his worst qualifying performance since Indianapolis.

It's 60 degrees out and raining, so I suppose it's "SERVICE THE CB1100 DAY" lol (oil change number 5 @ 16,500 miles)

Wish I had a garage like redbirds.. unfortunately I have to lay on pads and rugs while my truck is parked outside getting wet

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/image_zpsvpxchwbb.jpeg.html]

will check chain tension, throttle play, check f & r tire pressure and drain both evap hoses while I'm at it.


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thinking about a f6b in addition to my cb, any comments?