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| Riding in the Rain: A Pragmatic Response |
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Posted by: rdprdp01 - 04-18-2026, 11:07 PM - Forum: Motorcycle - Riding Techniques
- Replies (15)
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Recently, I rode my motorcycle downtown to pick up some fruits and vegetables. The skies were gray, and rain was in the forecast. But I rode anyway. It has been too long since I navigated a wet road. I needed the practice.
After I parked, a slight, gentle drizzle began.
When light rain starts to fall, it mixes with oil, grease, and dust on the road, creating a slippery, greasy film that makes driving much more difficult and dangerous. This light moisture acts as a lubricant, making the roads more slippery and significantly reducing traction. Unlike in heavy rain, this film remains constant. Tires on cars, motorcycles, trucks, and bicycles tend to spread it across the road until it evaporates or is washed away by heavy rain.
For those who might be returning to cycling after a break or for new owners of a CB1100, I assert this situation is arguably the most dangerous road condition we face while riding our 550+ LB motorcycle. I encourage you to
Recognize the "Slick" Period: Oils on the road mix with water, making the first 30 minutes the most dangerous.
Smooth Controls: Operate the throttle, brakes, and clutch with gentle, gradual inputs to avoid breaking traction.
Reduced Speed & Increased Distance: Slow down 5-10 mph and increase following distance, as braking distance doubles on wet pavement.
Keep Your Motorcycle Upright: Reduce lean angle in corners, as slick roads significantly decrease available traction.
Adjust Lane Position: Ride in the tire tracks of the car in front of you, as they often clear the water and oil.
Avoid Potential Hazards: Avoid painted lines, manhole covers, and metal expansion joints, which become extremely slippery.
I took a few pictures in hopes that my words could become a little more vivid:
![[Image: pkC08ru.jpeg]](https://i.imgur.com/pkC08ru.jpeg)
![[Image: cxwSEeF.jpeg]](https://i.imgur.com/cxwSEeF.jpeg)
![[Image: bAru88Y.jpeg]](https://i.imgur.com/bAru88Y.jpeg)
![[Image: xw1Uegv.jpeg]](https://i.imgur.com/xw1Uegv.jpeg)
I am pleased to report that I remained upright and in control of my motorcycle. When I returned home, I addressed the oil, film, and dirt that had accumulated.
![[Image: X9XJ7zE.jpeg]](https://i.imgur.com/X9XJ7zE.jpeg)
![[Image: WLSqa5r.jpeg]](https://i.imgur.com/WLSqa5r.jpeg)
![[Image: 9KxJRRL.jpeg]](https://i.imgur.com/9KxJRRL.jpeg)
I am a staunch supporter of ceramic coating, which I applied to my wheels, chromes, calibers, tank, and all other surfaces when I purchased my motorcycle.
Key Benefits of Ceramic Coating for Motorcycles:
Superior Protection: Shields paint and metal from UV damage, fading, oxidation, and corrosion.
Hydrophobic Properties: Extremely water-repellent, reducing water spots and allowing dirt, mud, and rain to wash off easily.
Enhanced Appearance: Provides a high-gloss, deep-shine finish that makes colors more vibrant.
Scratch Resistance: Forms a hard layer (up to 9H) that helps prevent light scratches and swirl marks from washing or minor debris.
Heat Resistance: Protects engine components and exhaust pipes from heat-related discoloration and buildup.
Versatility: Safe for use on glossy/matte paint, chrome, plastic, and carbon fiber.
It took less than 15 minutes to return the motorcycle to a proper state:
![[Image: oZTdXIj.jpeg]](https://i.imgur.com/oZTdXIj.jpeg)
![[Image: Om1UvOf.jpeg]](https://i.imgur.com/Om1UvOf.jpeg)
![[Image: RMSpOHv.jpeg]](https://i.imgur.com/RMSpOHv.jpeg)
If that road gunk is allowed to dry or harden, it can be quite difficult to remove. It can also corrode parts and damage finishes. If time allows, it is always best to remove it immediately following the ride. To help make that easy, I maintain a Chemical Guys' Shrine in my garage with easy access to anything I might need.
Be safe and careful. David
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| Booster Plug on an RS |
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Posted by: TheLegend - 04-18-2026, 01:56 PM - Forum: Mechanical & Technical
- Replies (6)
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I install two days ago a Booster Plug-Denmark on my 2017 RS; simple and intuitive plug and play gadget, no "check engine". First day I've noticed a smoothness at on/off throttle , some fuller acceleration, seems little less vibrations over 2500 rpm. Next day... it seems not anymore quite the same, I feel vibrations again and behave not so smooth at accel/decel; all test are in urban conditions. Is somebody here who install/use this gadget and knows more tips & tricks about how to proceed more effectively to make the ECU learn/understand the new way of reading more efficiently, apart from those presented in the manual?
https://www.boosterplug.com/shop/frontpage.html
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| ABS , speedometer and battery |
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Posted by: Walter - 04-12-2026, 03:51 AM - Forum: Mechanical & Technical
- Replies (10)
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Hello everyone,
My 2016 CB1100 sa has a strange problem. To me that is. When I start it, everything is perfect. De ABS light comes on, when I ride a little it goes out. The bike rides as smooth as can be and makes me happy. But after 20 km's or so, the ABS light starts blinking and my speedometer goes to zero.
Then I stop, wait a while and then everything is back to normal, but after 5 km's or so, it all starts again. Sometimes it goes away while riding.
The second last time, I came home and parked it in the garage. The day after, the bike wouldn't start. Flat battery. I replaced it with a new one and thought it was over, because the old battery was bulged. Searched what that could be and those things seem to happen. Battery was 4 years old and never charged during winter times becaus I ride it now and then. (read : I am lazy)
So I tested it again and the bike did it again. Stopped 3 times and the third time it wouldn't start. Acted as if the battery was flat again. Got myself home, don't ask how. Then got back to the bike with the battery of my NC 750 and got home. On that ride the bike did the ABS and speedometer fault once, but that stopped almost immediatly and I got home.
I measured the battery that got out of the bike (the new one that replaced the bulged one) and it measured 13 + volts.
Now I am confused. Why would't the bike not start if the battery is good?
I am going to find out what this is, because I will. But I thought it is an interesting issue to put on this forum.
The causes I think about are twofold : Maybe air in the ABS modulator part which confuses the solenoid valve of the ABS module if that is possible. Or else just a minus cable or a connection that is bad. But only when the bike is warmed up? Strange.
The reason I think this is that it all first began with only the ABS light flashing after a fluid change. Maybe some airbubble trapped. Afterwards the problem with the speedometer was added.
This bike does things to me. My wife doen't understand it. I said " the bike has to go, I don't like these kind of problems." She said it was understandable. When I came home i said : "this bike rides so good, I will never part from it" Now she thinks I am crazy and she is consulthing all kinds of doctors...
So guys and maybe girls, what do you think? About the bike I mean, not my wife.
Thanks.
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| FOUND - Thanks! |
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Posted by: ikehouserock - 04-11-2026, 10:42 PM - Forum: Archive
- Replies (5)
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Hey all! Excited to be part of this community. Just picked up a 2014 CB 1100 - it came with an Arrow exhaust but without the dB killer installed. I live in a very quiet neighborhood so would love to reduce the exhaust sound. Does anyone have the original exhaust, or a spare dB Killer that goes into the Arrow? Otherwise does anyone have recommendations on a universal baffle that has done well in reducing volume? Thanks so much!
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