Free anywhere in the USA!  (Canada? Let's talk)

Just DM me. First DM gets it.

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

I have ridden 50,000+ miles on motorcycles on streets and highways. I do not have a clue how many miles I clocked on dirt, but it was my three-year apprenticeship before I purchased my first street ride. Along the way, I observed great riding habits from phenomenal motorcyclists and noted a few things to avoid from the flip-flop, helmetless daredevil on a superbike turning out 160 BHP. For your consideration, see below:

The Motorcyclist: I never ride when I am angry, distraught, stressed, exhausted, or distracted. If something happens while I am riding, I respond, find a place to park, take time to reset, and then continue riding calmly and with focus.

Gear Up: I always wear the full set of protective gear: boots, Kevlar-lined jeans, airbag, jacket, gloves, earplugs, and helmet. I know it sounds excessive, but like so many other things in my life, it has become an ingrained habit I do not even think about.

Pre-Ride Check: Like Gear, I thoroughly inspect my motorcycle. It does not take long. I pay particular attention to the drivetrain: wheels, tires, air pressure, chains, sprockets, and brakes. When it is time to go, I want to go. When it is time to stop, I want to stop.

Warm Up: When I start my motorcycle, I let it idle for 5 minutes while I slip on my gloves and helmet. Because a CB1100 is fuel-injected, it may seem like a quaint relic of the past that I should let go of. However, a CB1100 relies on oil to cool the motor. It needs to circulate before the engine spins at high RPMs. I also use this time to listen closely to the exhaust and engine. If something is broken, I want to know about it idling in front of my garage, not at 70 MPH on the highway.

Rolling: I take the first few stops and turns slowly. I want the tires to warm up and to confirm that nothing has vibrated loose. I also have to check for bonehead mistakes, like when I didn't properly clip my brand-new iPhone into the mount. Thankfully, at five miles per hour, it gently fell into my lap. Not sure what would have happened if I had gunned the motorcycle to get to 50 MPH.

Focus: There are many people on this Forum who are smarter and more experienced than I am. I know it is very common on group rides for people to use Intercoms to chat. Serious motorcycle tourers often listen to podcasts, music, and other content to make the journey more enjoyable. For me, when I ride, I only ride. I check the mirrors constantly, focus on the road rather than the instrumentation, and continually assess driving conditions (pavement, weather, vehicles, debris, animals). I rarely look at my speedometer or tachometer because I can tell how fast I am going by the sound of the exhaust and the gearing.

Trust: Or perhaps more accurately, I have no trust in anyone riding anywhere near me. I watch the wheels of nearby vehicles to gauge whether they might drift into my lane, and I avoid looking at drivers' faces to prevent target fixation. I assume no one will yield as they should. While scanning, I am also leveraging lane position to create a makeshift escape route if something terrible happens. Although some of you may find it unnecessary and even questionable, I ride with my fingers always on the clutch and brake levers. Many motorcyclists have asked whether my hands tire or cramp. They do not, but that might be because after 45 years, all feeling has given way to the comfort I take in knowing I am ready to react. When I see a problem developing, I act decisively. I almost always either accelerate to swerve to avoid a collision or apply the front and rear brakes to slow the motorcycle without causing the rear tire to slide. It is very rare that I swerve and brake. I practice throttle management and downshifting to help with braking.

Speed: If I am on a country road by myself, I always drive at the posted speed limit. Engineers factor in road geometry, sight distance, and clear zones when calculating a safe speed of travel. I follow that without exception. On an interstate, I sometimes have to choose between driving with the flow of traffic and the posted speed. In both scenarios, I give a wide berth to people driving U-Hauls, school buses full of screaming kids, and any vehicles that are so large they block my view of the road.

Turns: I slow down before entering a turn, set a line, accelerate through the turn, and use counter-steering to maintain balance. I am always looking ahead, exactly where I want to go. At low speeds, that may be 200 ft. On the highway, that may be 1,000 ft. I maintain my position even if a slightly impatient driver wants me to go faster. If he wants to pass me, so be it. But I am going to hold my line and enjoy leaning the motorcycle back up on the other side of that turn, safe and sound. If he waves the one-finger salute at me as he passes to let me know he finds my judgment suspect, I will find a way to cope.

Parking: When parking my motorcycle, I always look for a flat, level surface. The CB1100 weighs more than 550 LBS (250 KG) wet. If I park on an incline, the weight coupled with gravity can turn parking into a very bad day. I always park in gear if I am not using the center stand and always turn my front wheel toward the slope.

If you find anything I shared questionable, throw the flag and correct me. If you could add to this Thread by sharing other best practices or lessons learned, the rest of the Forum and I would benefit tremendously. Let’s help one another become better riders by drawing on our experiences on the road, not only in a parking lot under the watchful eyes of an experienced instructor. Two wheels down. David

Glad to have stumbled back into this joint

Hello,  
I bought a 2014 CB1100 DLX a few months ago and quickly realized the original owner replaced the original handlebars with lowered replacements,  They dd not install the weights and they are too low and vibrate too much for my liking.  
Do any of you have an original set for sale for a 2013-14 CB1100 ?  

Thank You !!!

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
   

Purchased a 2014 E with about 8k on it last August. Dealer told me it had “fresh oil.” A few days ago I went to change the oil and the drain plug was pretty tight. I got it to start loosening but now it just spins between loose and tight, not getting any lower. 

I’m thinking about replacing the whole pan, as a used one in good shape is around 50 dollars shipped. I can’t find a good step-by-step guide though. 

I know the gist of it would be: remove plug with downward pressure, drain oil, remove exhaust, remove bolts, wack with 2x4 or similar around seal, remove pan, clean mating surface on bike and new pan, apply sealant, apply bolts to torque spec and make sure new plug is torqued to 22 ft-lbs, add 4.1 quarts oil

Is there anything I’m missing/need to add/change? Should I ask a shop to install a helicoil instead of changing the pan? Thank you

Today, we mourn, remember, and honor the U.S. military personnel who died while serving in the armed forces. In my long career, I have traveled the world and seen the ravages of tyranny. I have been evacuated while the US Military remained on post. For all the problems and divisions we may have in this country, there remains at a minimum the possibility of life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. Brave men and women make that possible. Sadly, some never made it home.

The UK, Australia, New Zealand, Canada, and other Commonwealth nations also observe similar Remembrance Days, though at a different time of year. Heroism transcends national boundaries.

If you or your family served, or if someone dear to you paid the ultimate price to ensure freedom, may you find comfort on this day. David

With help from my incredibly supportive Honda Motorcycle Dealer, we reached out to Galfer, hoping they had already created a CB1100EX upgrade "kit" to replace the OEM rubber clutch and brake lines. Rubber lines degrade from UV exposure, heat cycling, and age — they swell microscopically under pressure and eventually crack. Braided stainless lines resist all of that, so performance stays consistent for years longer, possibly forever, if properly manufactured. Although Galfer recognizes that the CB1100 had a limited production run, they admire the motorcycle. They agreed to create a kit for zealots like me. Here is how it worked:

Step 1: We sent Galfer a brand-new set of OEM clutch and brake lines for my CB1100EX.

Step 2: They created a set of steel-braided lines after examining the OEM lines.

Step 3: They shipped a set of orange prototype lines.

Step 4: Sam (Parts Guy), Mike (Service Mechanic), and I partially disassembled my motorcycle and simulated a line installation, using zip ties to connect the prototype lines to the actual lines.

Step 5: Once "installed," we took pictures and returned them to Galfer, along with instructions on what needed to be adjusted to ensure everything works properly. Two of their prototype lines were too long.

Step 6: We removed the prototype lines and returned them to Galfer. We reassembled my motorcycle.

Step 7: Galfer will ship the production set of lines in 30 days, following our instructions and using the color and connectors I selected. They will also add the custom "set" to their part's catalog and make it available to their distributors.

Other than longevity, what I expect to gain from this exercise:

• A more direct, linear response when I squeeze the brake or clutch lever
  
• Better heat management of brake fluid, which reduces the risk of vapor lock and brake fade during aggressive or prolonged braking
  
• A more consistent riding experience (rubber behaves differently when it is very cold or very hot outside)
  

We all know the engineering, manufacturing, materials, and quality control that Mitsuyoshi Kohama used to build a motorcycle "that defies logic and just demands to be ridden." All CB1100 models adhere to this guiding principle. My 2017 CB1100EX is no exception. But as I approach my motorcycle's 10-year birthday, I find myself immersed in an engineering analysis bordering on obsession. I feel a kinship with Kohama and an obligation to the next owner of my motorcycle not only to maintain it but also to ensure its future.

The core of the bike — that air-cooled inline four — is arguably one of the most durable engine architectures ever used in a motorcycle. Air-cooled engines have fewer failure points than liquid-cooled ones: no water pump to fail, no radiator to corrode, no coolant hoses to deteriorate, and no head gasket sealing coolant passages. The CB1100EX engine is under-stressed by modern standards, producing modest power from a large displacement. That's exactly the recipe for extreme longevity. Honda's metallurgy in the cylinder bores, cranks, and transmission gears is excellent, and there's nothing in that engine that can't be rebuilt or re-machined.

The steel double-cradle frame is simple, robust, and repairable. Unlike aluminum frames that are difficult to weld without specialized equipment, a steel frame can be straightened, repaired, or reinforced by any competent fabricator indefinitely.

The wire-spoke wheels on the EX are another longevity advantage — individual spokes can be replaced, rims can be re-laced, and hubs can be refurbished. All good there.

Despite having earned the highest reliability rating possible, electrical components such as the fuel injection system, ECU, sensors, wiring harness connectors, ABS module, instrument cluster, etc., pose a long-term vulnerability for my CB1100EX. When those parts fail, they simply must be replaced. Although Honda sold the CB1100 in the United States for only three years, it had a much longer run in Australia, Europe, and Japan. Parts remain available. Capacitors on circuit boards degrade whether the bike runs or not. Storing critical spares in a humidity-controlled environment is a reasonable precaution. These parts had finite production runs and do not share many components with Honda's current motorcycle line. And with the help of my friends at Webike, I have started building a spare inventory for those parts I cannot source from my local motorcycle shop. It is manageable.

Rubber and plastic components — seals, gaskets, bushings, intake boots, body panels — all have finite lifespans and must be preserved or replaced with hardened alternatives. That said, new manufacturing capabilities catering to motorcycle preservationists are making replacement options increasingly available.

By choosing air cooling, a simple steel frame, wire wheels, and a conventional layout, Kohama made a bike that's inherently more rebuildable and sustainable than most modern motorcycles. I want my motorcycle to be ridden for 100 years. With some planning and help from the great people I have engaged and this Forum, I believe that goal is possible. Many original Honda CB750s are still running today. And with all due respect to arguably the most important motorcycle ever built, the CB1100 is better engineered and is made with far better materials. Until you tell me to stop, I plan to share how I go about extending the life of my motorcycle. I am not advocating that you do the same, but I do hope you will assist me even if you find it foolish. Thanks in advance for the assist.

EDIT: After trying a few other options (see comments) I have the answer.  I'm posting it up here for to make it easier for any time travelers from the future who might stumble across this in their quest to mount their own side racks.

You have to mount them outside of the rear rack. The stock screws are not long enough so you need to buy four new screws. They all need to be 8mm x 1.25mm. Two of them should be 90mm button top; two of them 80mm socket flat head.


I asked this in the comments of some old posts but I don’t know that it had the visibility I needed so I’m making the question its own thread.

I have a 2017. It is equipped with an OEM rear luggage rack. I love that rack and want to keep it. I am also shopping for detachable side cases and the C Bow system look good (and is kinda’ the only game in town).
https://www.motomachines.com/hepco-becke...mold-mount
https://www.ebay.com/itm/166036920040?_s...R_a9-YfJZw

Anyone know if the Hepco & Becker C Bow luggage mounts are compatible with the OEM Rear Rack?

Or, as a consolation, can someone who has the C Bows on their 2017 send me various angles of how they are mounted? The photos available via a google search are limited and I can't tell how things are mounted and spaced.

Thanks!    

1974 CB450 K7

17,814 miles
*Excellent Condition
*Title in hand.
*Paint is 9 out of 10 - (52 year old bike)
*No rips or tears in seat.
*All lights, horn, speedometer and tachometer and starter function.
*Points replaced by electronic ignition
*Forks rebuilt - new seals, oil and fork gaiters
*Carbs rebuilt - new rubber, kept original brass
*New front brake caliper, master cylinder and brake perch. Also hard line that goes into caliper
*New chrome tank trim (bottom of tank)
*Various oil seals replaced
*Oil change - Rotella T4
*Cam chain tension
*Valve clearances to OEM spec
*Tank cleaned by electrolysis
*New battery 10/23 - maintained on trickle charger
*New headlight lens and H4 bulb kit (halogen)
purchased from Common Motors
*NOS Rear crash bars (1)
*Sissy bar and pad (1)
*Front crash bar - purchased used from eBay
and rechromed by Dan’s Polishing Shop, TN
*New OEM front and right side mirrors
*New side cover screws
*Original owner’s manual
*Original dealer sales brochure
*No holes or rust on exhaust headers or pipes

(1) Purchased from a Honda dealer’s stock.
Had never been installed.

Why Selling? - have 2 other bikes

PRICE: $3,795
Located in Scott Depot, WV 

Check CycleTrader for detail pics.
https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/1974...5040691185