Whitehouse K17 mods...

[Houtman_imp]

Smart Bazbro. Don't underestimate the rust.

RUST in England ???

 

[Bazbro_imp]

Smart Bazbro. Don't underestimate the rust.

RUST in England ???

RUST in England ???
.

And that's just the RIDERS !! :celebrate:

 

[tommymck]

You're a big tease Bazbro. When are we going to see the money shot???!!! That front end looks fantastic

 

[Bazbro_imp]

You're a big tease Bazbro. When are we going to see the money shot???!!! That front end looks fantastic

The tank needs assembling first! The tank cap comes as a separate item and the fuel pump has to be removed from the old tank and fitted to the new one. Then ... fitted to the 'bike!

So, soon, Tommy... soon!

 

[peterbaron]

Fitting Wyvern 4-into-4 exhausts/silencers, Part 2...

You'll remember that I had to pause fitting the middle two silencers because my jack was in the way.  I had to wait until I could refit the front wheel/mudguard (fender) and lower the front wheel to the ground, before I could remove the jack and finish the exhausts.
So.... here we go on Part 2.
Before fitting the 'H'-section joining the middle two exhausts, I needed to safely route the O2 Sensor's cables.  The right-hand one is OK, but the left-hand cable runs dangerously close to, and could be snagged by, the rear drive chain.
I cable-tied the two cables together as far as possible,  then secured them to the main stand spring  hook on the frame, now unused ('3' in the pic).  Other cable-ties were added, especially where the cable needed to be guided near the centre line of the 'bike ('2' in the pic) and then as it went into the cavity occupied by the chain ('1' in the pic).
Cable-tied Gaffer tape was added where the cable passed any sharp edges.

With foresight, this could have been done better maybe, with shrinkwrap tube or stout rubber tubing.  This is satisfactorily, though.

While under the 'bike, and before the exhausts were fitted, I put tape on the swing arm bearing, to prevent stone damage and subsequent corrosion - a great idea by Max on this Forum.  Thanks Max!  

The kit comes with a small 'adapter plate' that, when adjusted properly, keeps the sidestand from hitting the exhaust.  Neat!

The 'H'-section middle exhaust joiner was tightened (socket bolts and 10mm nuts) and the inner silencers fitted and bolted up.

Leftside done...

The right side...

And both sides!

That's enough for today.  Tidying up tomorrow; finishing off small bits I've left, checking tightness of all fasteners I may have touche and so on.  And then... starting on the tank (fitting fuel pump and filler cap, etc).
Thanks for the kind comments, guys - they're all appreciated.

Yup, GO... I envy the guys that live in a climate where the dreaded "rust" isn't an issue!

^^These two^^ pics I like the most

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

You're a big tease Bazbro. When are we going to see the money shot???!!! That front end looks fantastic

The tank needs assembling first! The tank cap comes as a separate item and the fuel pump has to be removed from the old tank and fitted to the new one. Then ... fitted to the 'bike!

So, soon, Tommy... soon!

The tank needs assembling first! The tank cap comes as a separate item and the fuel pump has to be removed from the old tank and fitted to the new one. Then ... fitted to the 'bike!

So, soon, Tommy... soon!

I kinda like this intermediate shot.

There is some sort of soul there - hard to see, but it can be felt. Savor this moment.

 

[Cormanus]

Nice work, Bazbro.

 

[Vic_imp]

The final fit of the modified CB750 front mudguard...

The excess of the brackets were cut off, buffed and shaped.  I decided to paint the brackets because of this scarring of the chrome.  But... silver or black paint??

The first coat of red oxide primer, ensuring that it gets into all the nooks and crannies where the brackets attach to the mudguard and where rust would otherwise form...

I decided,  while I was about it, to paint all the seams round the edge, underneath the m/guard, to properly rust proof it.  By not bothering to mask all of the underside, overspray will get all over the underneath of the m/guard, but I'm not worried about appearance - it's those cracks and seams where rust starts, that I need to cover and protect with paint.

Don't forget the cable guide that was cut off the strut... that needs the red oxide rust preventer, followed by a topcoat too.

Silver it is!  I have some 'Truck Bed Liner' spray, but that's a bit over-the-top, I think.  So a couple of passes of spray silver it is, maybe followed by a couple of coats of clear matte lacquer to make the brackets look nice.

The finished job...

wow! nice work Bazbro!

 

[Bazbro_imp]

.
TIME TO FIT "THE TANK"...

:celebrate:
Thanks guys.

Great pic, Vic! I shall keep that.

Have you noticed how Honda cleverly curved the CB 750 silencers INWARDS at the ends, preventing the "sticking out" appearance of the Wyverns? The CB750 looks much better from the rear than the Wyverns. But I'm not complaining!

 

[Lord Popgun]

Also, apparently the CB750 did not have a throttle. It had a “gas handle”

 

[the Ferret]

.
TIME TO FIT "THE TANK"...

:celebrate:
Thanks guys.

Great pic, Vic! I shall keep that.

Have you noticed how Honda cleverly curved the CB 750 silencers INWARDS at the ends, preventing the "sticking out" appearance of the Wyverns? The CB750 looks much better from the rear than the Wyverns. But I'm not complaining!

:rofl:

 

[Nachodaddy]

.
TIME TO FIT "THE TANK"...

:celebrate:
Tanks for the morning humor.
I don't think a German part is right for this application, though.

 

[Bazbro_imp]

Fitting the new 'Whitehouse' tank.

The Whitehouse kit (tank, side panels and headlamp 'ears') came beautifully packed in a stout box. 

The tank has the option of coming with a standard, 'original pattern' fuel cap, a modern fuel cap or a CB750 lookalike cap, the last two are at extra charge.  I chose the early pattern cap which is effectively 'free' (no extra charge).
So this is the first job - fit the fuel cap.  It's quite straightforward... follow the photos.

Turn the tank over, in order to fit the fuel pump.

First, remove the pump from the old tank.

CAREFULLY withdraw the pump, taking extra care not to...

...not to bend the level sensor float.

The instructions emphasise that you must insert the float right over to the right hand side of the aperture as you look down upon it, to ensure that it sits in the right position to be able to move.  Before you tighten anything, pick up the tank and shake it - you should clearly hear the float rattling inside.  If it doesn’t rattle,  take it out and try again until it does.  Then secure the six 10mm nuts.  I treated this like cylinder head bolts, going to opposite sides to avoid having uneven pull resulting in a leak.  This may not be necessary, but it's 'good practice' if you have a large number of fixings round an edge.

Before flipping the tank over, put a tiny drop of engine oil on the three spigots on the bottom of the tank - the fuel outlet, the tank breather and the tank overflow.
Flip the tank over, engage the curved brackets at the front of the tank, onto the rubber dampers on the frame, and wiggle the tank forwards until the hole at the back of the tank matches the corresponding thread in the frame.
Now hold the back of the tank up with a small piece of wood.

This is very tight but can be achieved with care...  First, push the 'special connector' onto the metal fuel outlet spigot.  Honda recommend fitting new parts to this - take advice from your dealer - different connectors were used for different years of production. Slide it on firmly until you hear a positive 'click'.
Then push on the two rubber pipes.  (Arrowed)

Fit the rubber vibration damper to the back of the tank and bolt down (12mm bolt and spacer) to the frame.

Finally, locate the socket and plug in the fuel pump connector.

The last job is to fit the side.panels, step back and admire...

(Photos tomorrow, when I can get the finished 'bike out into daylight - I hope it's sunny.)

 

[Houtman_imp]

Again , great pictures and advise .

 

[Nachodaddy]

Very well done. Surgical precision. Great photos. Thank you. Or, should I say "tanks?"

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Very well done. Surgical precision. Great photos. Thank you. Or, should I say "tanks?"

(+1) NachoD. Tanx Baz. Good show.

 

[tommymck]

Home stretch now! As you note, it's a tight squeeze working with the fuel line connector. Much easier to install than to remove though.

Can't wait to see the final result. The neat thing you will find with the fuel float is that it feels like you are getting the first 50 miles for free. You will read full on your fuel gauge until you have consumed the first gallon or so.

 

[Bazbro_imp]

Thanks guys.

Interesting, Tommy. I've not had a m/c with "modern electronics" before, so a whole new experience for me. The "seaside illuminations" when I switch on the ignition is a revelation... and the rev counter reading maximum revs and the engine not even running! Bizarre! :-/

 

[Bazbro_imp]

From this, sad, dejected, damaged, unloved...

To this... Cinderella, resplendent and ready to go to the Ball...!

Just a shame it wasn't a nice, sunny day. Later...

I'm away until next week, but then it will be taxed, insured and filled with fuel...

 

[outback_imp]

Looks nice Bazbro!