Warped rotors?
- Thread starter DAC
- Start date
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
On cars it is usually pad material on the rotors. I'd try cleaning them first, and new pads 2nd before spending money on new rotors.
the Ferret
Road warrior
I think Rboe had a rear rotor replaced under warranty, but if memory serves he was incidentally hitting his rear brake pedal. I don't recall anyone replacing front rotors for pulsation.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
Ferret, yeah, he was riding the brake and overheated the rotor.
I'd do first what Powerdubs said and then check the runout. Me though, I'd check the runout before getting the new pads
I'd do first what Powerdubs said and then check the runout. Me though, I'd check the runout before getting the new pads
peterbaron
Road warrior
IN GENERAL TO ALL:Lord Popgun_imp said:Ferret, yeah, he was riding the brake and overheated the rotor.
I'd do first what Powerdubs said and then check the runout. Me though, I'd check the runout before getting the new pads
STOP REPLACING PARTS PRIOR DIAGNOSIS..
IF ROTORS ARE WARPED = ONLY SOLUTION IS REPLACEMENT. PERIOD!!!
First, take a visual look at rotor, if it has baked in pad imprint or rusty spot line across rotor it will be vibrating upon brake application ( and mostly front). This may happen after long storage (and moisture) or after washing bike and not spinning it after to dry out brakes = rust just LOVE this condition. You may help to certain point by deglazing rusty spot...but if it is too much or no help = replacement.
Use a dial gauge to check run out... you can also check thickness of your rotors at several different spots by using micrometer...compare with specs = always
If rotor is overheated ( for whatever reason), find out why = cure it and replace rotor!!!!.
PRIOR REPLACING ROTOR = CLEAN CONTACT SURFACE AND TORQUE IT DOWN TO PROPER SPECS.
Cheers to all CB riders,
Peter
--------------------
'13CB, 42K
Django
Road warrior
Check, if there are rust scars in the rotor. That may happen during winter, when the sinter pads have contact to the rotors during long rest.
That was a disk from my beemer:
That was a disk from my beemer:
Incredible timing on this thread...I just picked my bike up yesterday from having the tires replaced, AND the front rotors, which were warped. I've been putting up with the situation for a year or so, trying to postpone parting with the cash to replace them (about $600 a pair!!!! Ouch!). So yes, it apparently does happen. I've got 20,000 miles on my '14 DLX, do not brake hard, never abuse the bike, it's never been dropped or anything like that. No idea how they warped; and I don't believe they were warped when I bought the bike with 1800 miles on it; seems like something I would have noticed. Oh well, it's only money, right? I will say that braking is smooth as silk (again), and the new Avon Roadriders are every bit as glorious as I remember them being on my old '07 T100...
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Sorry to say- but I doubt they were warped.
As Popgun says- it is easy enough to measure. If anyone is local, I would happily do so for you before you spend money on new rotors you didn't actually need. It doesn't take much on the surface of the rotor to give it a pulsation. A good cleaning works wonders.
As Popgun says- it is easy enough to measure. If anyone is local, I would happily do so for you before you spend money on new rotors you didn't actually need. It doesn't take much on the surface of the rotor to give it a pulsation. A good cleaning works wonders.
Just thought I would throw this out there: Did the warped brake rotor condition become obvious shortly after having a new front tire replaced? It's possible the mechanic installing the new tire accidently damaged the rotor. My CB1100 has not exhibited any bent brake rotor conditions, but I replaced two front brake rotors due to warpage on my 1998 VFR800 within 80,000 miles - the first occurring at about 35,000 miles.
EarsOnWheels_imp
Running like a top
Pretty sure my old CB had a pitted front rotor. Definitely had pulsing. Could hitting a giant pothole do it...?
the Ferret
Road warrior
If you hit a pot hole deep enough to bend a rotor, you would know it. YOu wouldn't have any teeth left and your spine would be permanantly jammed lol.
jimgl3_imp
Been there
first thing you might want to do is clean the pad retaining pins! and I mean with sand paper too, not just brake cleaner alone. cleaning those boys alone can make brakes feel brand new.
Motogeezer1949_imp
Road warrior
I went through 3 sets. First under warranty, second off the salvage CB that I bought, the third off eBay. If one rides hard, they're going to warp. If one rides like the bike is intended (owned and operated by old, fat, bald, white guys) they'll do just fine. Never do a track day or ride hard thru the Dragon or the like. Happy 4th !!!
Macduff_imp
Running like a top
My old Ktm1190adv suffered pulsing brakes . It was brake pad deposits caused allegedly by coming to a stop with hot brakes and not moving off or keeping the brake on so the pad and disk remain in contact whilst still hot and not getting cooled. The result was a visible copper coloured pad shaped deposit on the disks. This proved difficult to remove without skimming ( so new disk were used to cure it)
Blockhead_imp
Been there
"If one rides like the bike is intended (owned and operated by old, fat, bald, white guys) they'll do just fine."
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Haha...I wish I hadn't read that while taking a sip of coffee! :rofl:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Haha...I wish I hadn't read that while taking a sip of coffee! :rofl:
flynrider
Road warrior
This is something I watch out for any time I've done any hard braking. At a stop, I'll release the brakes and roll the bike a foot or so to keep the hot pad from causing a hot spot on the rotor.Macduff_imp said:
Similar threads
