Warped rotors?

I think I am on to something... Our rotor bolts have a "spring" between the bolt and the rotor. As I have never removed these myself, I don't know which way they go, but I can tell you they definitely have a right way and a wrong way. the way they came off (which is how the shop may have put them on if they took them off to mount a tire) they fit snuggly against the bolt and do not seem like they would "spring" at all. but if I turn them around and put opposite the way they came off, the they stick out at the outer edge and would certainly "spring" so long as the bolt bottoms out before they are squashed completely. So, does anyone here know? and could this be what caused the warped rotor feeling I was getting? It would make sense to me, since the rotors would not "float" at all I don't think if assembled the snug fitting way. Wow, I really hope someone knows! and if you have a shop manual, I'm going to need the precise torque value. (to keep from squashing the "springs") I know Honda spent some time and money on this bike, but this seems like a really cheap way of faking floating rotors...
think I found answer to torque = 15 ft lb
 
I can say that I have definitely experienced this. It happened to me as a consequence of trying to change my own tire and getting a bit rough with the wheel in the process. I ended up buying a rotor for about 25 bucks on ebay. fortunately it was only one of them.

i remember trying every suggestion in the book...clean the rotos, change the pads, scrub or sand them. ect ect. in the end that unmistakable oscillating feeling was definitely a warped rotor.
 
The springs actually rest against a collar. So, bolt, collar, spring, rotor. The manual says to install the springs as shown in the illustration. Bolt torque value is 15 foot lbs.

It does say to match the arrow mark on the rotor with the arrow on the wheel.

I don’t know how to describe the spring installation, but it looks like wider at the collar and narrow at the rotor. PM me your email and I will send you a pic of the manual page.
 
L P, I see what you mean. I was referring to the bolt and collar as "the bolt". And now that I've looked at it again having been away a bit, I see that so long as the collar surface is flat, it would really make little difference which way it was turned, it would actually spring the same. It is just not as apparent to the eye turned that way. I am curious to see the manual, but your description is actually pretty good. I think the way you describe it is the way mine came off.
 
peterbaron_imp said:
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Ferret, yeah, he was riding the brake and overheated the rotor.

I'd do first what Powerdubs said and then check the runout. Me though, I'd check the runout before getting the new pads :)
Click to expand...
IN GENERAL TO ALL:
STOP REPLACING PARTS PRIOR DIAGNOSIS..
IF ROTORS ARE WARPED = ONLY SOLUTION IS REPLACEMENT. PERIOD!!!

First, take a visual look at rotor, if it has baked in pad imprint or rusty spot line across rotor it will be vibrating upon brake application ( and mostly front). This may happen after long storage (and moisture) or after washing bike and not spinning it after to dry out brakes = rust just LOVE this condition. You may help to certain point by deglazing rusty spot...but if it is too much or no help = replacement.
Use a dial gauge to check run out... you can also check thickness of your rotors at several different spots by using micrometer...compare with specs = always
If rotor is overheated ( for whatever reason), find out why = cure it and replace rotor!!!!.
PRIOR REPLACING ROTOR = CLEAN CONTACT SURFACE AND TORQUE IT DOWN TO PROPER SPECS.
Cheers to all CB riders,
Peter
--------------------
'13CB, 42K
Click to expand...
Methodical Thinking and Troubleshooting
 
news flash!!!

DO NOT reuse rotor bolts!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

4d67448e89ca08b8c5dbf3792ecc67fa.jpg


any suggestions on how to now get broken off bolt out of wheel?

didn't even make it to 15 ft lbs!
 
it is not sticking out. tried speed out but bolt broke off so nasty it would not center punch and drill wouldn't go in straight either. just boogered it up worse and broke drill bit off in bolt! ordered a used wheel for $300. a rotor would have cost that. these rotors are fine though. put back on with just the 4 bolts to test slow speed stop, which is where the problem was. it's gone! flipping the springs that were backwards on the one rotor fixed it. now smooth as glass! wish I had test ridden after flipping the springs on the one side. the springs on the second side where bolt broke were on correctly!
I bet a lot of folk that think they have warped rotors really have springs on backwards!!
 
Well, you know, sometimes we learn the hard way to remember forever and be carful with pre-diag next time. This is called an experience.
S**t happens.
Buy yourself Honda CB1100 service manual if you like wrenching!
Check your PM
:beerchug:
 
The manual says to replace the bolts as they are ALOC bolts. Which means they come with a locker applied. Interestingly, the handlebar weight screws a ALOC screws and should be replaced. Yeah, I’m not doing that. I just put Loctite on them.
 
jimgl3_imp said:
it is not sticking out. tried speed out but bolt broke off so nasty it would not center punch and drill wouldn't go in straight either. just boogered it up worse and broke drill bit off in bolt! ordered a used wheel for $300. a rotor would have cost that. these rotors are fine though. put back on with just the 4 bolts to test slow speed stop, which is where the problem was. it's gone! flipping the springs that were backwards on the one rotor fixed it. now smooth as glass! wish I had test ridden after flipping the springs on the one side. the springs on the second side where bolt broke were on correctly!
I bet a lot of folk that think they have warped rotors really have springs on backwards!!
Click to expand...
Can you get the drill bit out?

If you have room, the best approach is to make a flat(ish) surface so you can punch a center, and as Peterbaron has said: drill a pilot and use an extractor (or Left hand tap).

If the bolt has thread-locker (loctite or whatever), you can break it loose with a heat-gun (could this warp the disc? mmm... :huh: )
 
problem is it's broken off down inside the threaded aluminum hole. so all my attempts to make a flattish surface resulted in gnarling up the aluminum threads. I know they want wheels and such to be light weight, but putting steel bolts in aluminum is just not good mojo. I once ended up using JB Weld to weld a motor mount up solid on GSXR 750 race bike because the frame slider bolt went into the engine case! If I had realized that I would have never put the frame slider in the first place. turns out frame sliders are not good for racing anyway. they hit curbing and launch your bike into the air. fiberglass race fairings are much better without frame sliders. they are tough and when they do crack you just drill and zip tie and go back out on the track. it's funny, the only progress I made at all, about a quarter turn, was from super gluing the broken off bolt and trying to turn it real easy. it did about a 1/4 turn then broke off the glue.
interestingly enough, after that, it would not stay glued at all.
 
I wanted to make a comment and see what kind of replies I got. IMHO, the rotors on modern motorcycles are made as thin as possible in the interest of saving weight, and of course cost. These thin rotors are very susceptible to damage due to an impact, and a very likely cause of an impact can occur during a tire change. I don't think many people today change their own tires - I remove my wheel from the bike and take the wheel and new tire to a shop to have the tire replaced. Who knows what happens behind closed doors when the mechanic is changing your tire? I had a rim severely scratched during a tire change one time. The guy at the counter agreed to have my rim re-powder-coated, but the manager stepped in and prevented this from happening. I refused to pay for the mount and balance, and they were happy that I didn't take the matter up with the owner. I am sure most of us on this forum have a favorite "mechanic story" they could share.
 
You'd figure by 2021 garages would be vigilant to apply precautions to protect customer's junk. Finishes are so precious these days. :-/
 
I made one last attempt to remove the broken bolt by putting a bolt in the drilled hole with JB Weld. that did not work either. the bolt simply came out of the JB Weld. I thought that stuff was strong...

anyway, I will be using the new wheel I got for $300. I will let anyone of you have the 2014 wheel with the broken off bolt for $150 plus shipping. pm me if you're interested.
 
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