BackroadsRider_imp
First service completed
Thread starter
Have 9K on my 2013. Just curious how many if any had valves that needed adjustments on their first check? I'm about to have mine checked.
Valve Check On 2013
- Thread starter BackroadsRider_imp
- Start date
itstuantran_imp
Running like a top
Mine is RS 2107 and is almost 25k km within 10 months 
. Still no sign for valve clearance adjustment. If it aint broke, why fix it 
. Still no sign for valve clearance adjustment. If it aint broke, why fix it BackroadsRider_imp said:
BackroadsRider_imp
First service completed
Thread starter
Well broke could be quiet expensive if I wait on it to happen. I do think the norm is these bikes aren't needing adjustments. I was curious as how many have needed an adjustment on here so far? I'm liking what I hear on yours.
flynrider
Road warrior
I think this thread is what you're looking for.
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8882&highlight=valve
http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=8882&highlight=valve
BackroadsRider_imp
First service completed
Thread starter
Thanks
kennyw
Road warrior
I did my first check at 44.5K miles and still within spec.
max
Road warrior
Valve clearance check performed yesterday, mainly peace of mind and this is roughly what happened.
Even without changing shims it took the best part of the day, tank, coils, heatshield, pair valve all have to be removed.
Had a hard time disconnecting the fuel connection from the tank because didn't know how to operate the coupling, the heatshield needed bending and was a bit difficult, valve cover took some time and came free after pulling the wire harness up for a little more clearance.
The ecm was not disconnected but layd back and the tray removed ( it moves back )
There was some light rust developing on the inside of the tank where the paint was very light, i used some clear lacquer to stop this getting any worse, you can see clearly how the plastic blue lock works to disconnect the fuel line and how the rubber keeper sits underneath the wings to prevent unintentional disconnection.
It took about an hour to get the bike ready for clearance checks and the inside was in perfect shape, no oil residue anywhere, nice shiny camlobes and buckets which retain some oil between them and this will reduce wear at startups greatly.
this shows the wear pattern and how the buckets rotate constantly when the engine runs.
Had feeler gauges with 0.01 mm increments so i could have a close look at the gaps, i did not loosen the tensioner and rotated the shaft clockwise during the process.
here are the findings;
spec; ex 0.28 in 0.15 +/- 0.3 mm.
#1 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .16,.17
#2 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .15,.16
#3 - exhaust .27,.27 intake .18,.18
#4 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .16,.15
No adjustment needed.
Had a look if the camshafts were timed correctly and should have checked if all the bolts holding the shafts were tight but that's for next time.
was very happy with the lack of oil residue from using full synthetic oil in the engine.
Cleaned the gasket and surface and put a light smear of black sealant on both sides and a little dot in all the corners for the round hole covers before putting the valve cover back, tightening the 8 bolts and putting the bike back together which went a lot better than taking it to bits, i ended up greasing the little boots on the coils on the iside because it made it easy to slip them over the little plastic ridges and prevent water getting onto the terminals, you can connect 3 terminals with the coils outside the frame and the last one once they are inside the frame, honda spent some time getting this right.
so here is how it looked after the work was done;
Here you can see the discussed earth terminal on the frame.
A better insight of how the bike works was achieved and the tank put back on with checking for ( the absence of ) fuel leaks after the pump primed the system and the engine started as if nothing ever happened.
More coffee; max
Even without changing shims it took the best part of the day, tank, coils, heatshield, pair valve all have to be removed.
Had a hard time disconnecting the fuel connection from the tank because didn't know how to operate the coupling, the heatshield needed bending and was a bit difficult, valve cover took some time and came free after pulling the wire harness up for a little more clearance.
The ecm was not disconnected but layd back and the tray removed ( it moves back )
There was some light rust developing on the inside of the tank where the paint was very light, i used some clear lacquer to stop this getting any worse, you can see clearly how the plastic blue lock works to disconnect the fuel line and how the rubber keeper sits underneath the wings to prevent unintentional disconnection.
It took about an hour to get the bike ready for clearance checks and the inside was in perfect shape, no oil residue anywhere, nice shiny camlobes and buckets which retain some oil between them and this will reduce wear at startups greatly.
this shows the wear pattern and how the buckets rotate constantly when the engine runs.
Had feeler gauges with 0.01 mm increments so i could have a close look at the gaps, i did not loosen the tensioner and rotated the shaft clockwise during the process.
here are the findings;
spec; ex 0.28 in 0.15 +/- 0.3 mm.
#1 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .16,.17
#2 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .15,.16
#3 - exhaust .27,.27 intake .18,.18
#4 - exhaust .28,.28 intake .16,.15
No adjustment needed.
Had a look if the camshafts were timed correctly and should have checked if all the bolts holding the shafts were tight but that's for next time.
was very happy with the lack of oil residue from using full synthetic oil in the engine.
Cleaned the gasket and surface and put a light smear of black sealant on both sides and a little dot in all the corners for the round hole covers before putting the valve cover back, tightening the 8 bolts and putting the bike back together which went a lot better than taking it to bits, i ended up greasing the little boots on the coils on the iside because it made it easy to slip them over the little plastic ridges and prevent water getting onto the terminals, you can connect 3 terminals with the coils outside the frame and the last one once they are inside the frame, honda spent some time getting this right.
so here is how it looked after the work was done;
Here you can see the discussed earth terminal on the frame.
A better insight of how the bike works was achieved and the tank put back on with checking for ( the absence of ) fuel leaks after the pump primed the system and the engine started as if nothing ever happened.
More coffee; max
max
Road warrior
You need a bit of room to get your hands under the tank ( wooden block ), then slide back the black rubber keeper away from the blue clip with the black tab, then you can press on the two "wings" on the blue clip to unlatch the black hose connector and slide the hose straight off the tank.use2b_imp said:
The electrical connector lives under the left side cover and the overflow hose comes off easyer with needle nose pliers.
here is a closeup of the hose connector with the two slots that lock into the blue connector wedges, the seal is pretty much a clever o ring that pushes on and releases easy but seals under pressure.
here is the blue connector with the rubber keeper in place, it prevents the blue lock from compressing and releasing the hose connector accidentally and poor out fuel under pressure!
so remove black safety lock, press the blue wings and pull the now unlocked hose straight off.
Do i have to stress how important it is to properly replace the black rubber safety and check for leaks?
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
To reinstall, the book shows putting the green thing in the line fitting and then putting the line on the tank line, with the black rubber safety in place.
Just for info, it also says to replace the green thing and the black rubber safety thing with new. Every time. Most of us don’t do that, but, just letting you know.
And the book says Do not use pliers.
Just for info, it also says to replace the green thing and the black rubber safety thing with new. Every time. Most of us don’t do that, but, just letting you know.
And the book says Do not use pliers.
peterbaron
Road warrior
I am ashamed 
and regret to say: my car has 240 K (shims) and CB 53 K and has never done any valve clearance check:huh: = do NOT copy this habit...
pb
and regret to say: my car has 240 K (shims) and CB 53 K and has never done any valve clearance check:huh: = do NOT copy this habit...pb
dbarkdoll_imp
Been there
So, I’m coming up on 8k on my 2013. I really would like to check the valves this spring, but do NOT want to pay to have it done. I don’t really have any experience with taking apart a motor/disassembling a bike to this extent. What I DO have is: a service manual, the internet (YouTube and y’all), and a very mechanically competent father. I haven’t asked him about this yet, but I’m pretty sure he’s done similar work on his bikes before, and is very skilled at turning a wrench and has an entire shop full of tools. Given that context, how would you rate this sort of procedure in difficulty for the two of us? (This question is for anyone kind enough to answer).
SportsterDoc
Road warrior
To only check, most of the work is getting to the point of removing the valve covers.
Using a feeler gauge, checking with each valve closed, is not at all difficult.
It is easy to simply eyeball the cam position, to know that the gap is maximum, when measured.
If adjustment is needed, then it gets more tedious.
Checking valves on all my recent bikes found every single valve within tolerance.
The were properly run-in, quality oil used and not abused.
From what I have gleaned from this forum, checking at 8,000 seems earlier than likely needed.
Using a feeler gauge, checking with each valve closed, is not at all difficult.
It is easy to simply eyeball the cam position, to know that the gap is maximum, when measured.
If adjustment is needed, then it gets more tedious.
Checking valves on all my recent bikes found every single valve within tolerance.
The were properly run-in, quality oil used and not abused.
From what I have gleaned from this forum, checking at 8,000 seems earlier than likely needed.
dbarkdoll_imp
Been there
Call it wishful thinking, but I’m anticipating everything to be in spec. This bike was broken in properly, always had Honda oil in it, and not ran TOO hard. I will admit that I have started playing around in the 4000-7000 rpm range more often, but I don’t believe I have ever redlined. All that being said, it would be good peace of mind to know for sure. And I’ve been hyper acute lately to the sound of the valves. It seems like they’re a bit noisier than before but I’m like 99% sure it’s just because I’m listening for it and being paranoid.SportsterDoc_imp said:
SportsterDoc
Road warrior
Most likely you are hearing the fuel injectors.
dbarkdoll_imp
Been there
Really? Are they louder than the valves?
SportsterDoc
Road warrior
Very much so.dbarkdoll_imp said:
Listen to a fuel injected motor with hydraulic valves.
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
At only 8k miles you have a much greater chance of causing a problem by checking the clearances than you do by just leaving well enough alone.
Houtman_imp
Road warrior
That is what my Honda mechanic said as well !PowerDubs_imp said:
