Trailer loading question.

[ride4now_imp]

I have a drop gate utility trailer that I use for the occasional trailering of my bikes. I plan on trailering my CB to Georgia later this month to get it in to postion for the NC 'rally' in May. I will probably trailer another one of my bikes back to Florida so I have something here to ride. I'm just not 'up' to riding 500 miles to Atlanta on a Saturday and then 500 miles back to Fla. on Sunday. My problem is... I don't like the angle of the drop gate. The trailer is level and the gate is not short, but the angle of accent (more importantly, the decent) is still too much. I've done it... but with lighter bikes like my KLR and my daughters SV650. I'm scared to death to do it with my Harley and a bit concerned with the CB. But I was thinking, if I had a small low ramp... a way to lift the rear of the tow vehicle by about 4-5 inches, it would effectively lower the rear of the trailer and ease the incline. I could build something like this with a few pieces of wood...

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It would be 3 to 4 two by sixes or two by tens nailed together in such a way to form a ramp UP and then a ramp DOWN. And I'd put some form of 'non-slid' material in the bottom to grip the asphalt when pressure is applied.

Any thoughts? Or... perhaps you know exactly what I'm trying to do and already have a better idea?? Thanks in advance!!
My little diagram above wants to slide to the left... in theory there is also a 'ramp' on the left, like you see on the right above.

 

[NightRider_imp]

My thought is there is a lot to go wrong here and the damage will cost more than a proper trailer. Whatever you use to prop up the rear of the tow vehicle could slip, could damage the tow vehicle and it would hurt should it slip while you were loading. I also am concerned the 2 x 6 or 10s will actually break since they are designed to bear loads on edge and not flat, they are weak laying flat as in a ramp application. You likely can see plenty of Youtube misfortunes while loading bikes on 2x6s. I think you should keep the equipment and tow vehicle in their normal attitudes and have a better metal trailer ramp built or buy a new trailer with a good ramp. I personally have used the flat U-haul trailers with front motorcycle wheel chocks and they are well suited for this. I also see lightweight trailers at TSC with great ramps and they should haul a bike just fine and have places for the tie downs. I know that's not the answer you are looking for but rigging something is asking for trouble and damage to a very expensive bike.

See you in May. :beerchug:

 

[emptysea]

Is there a reason that it would not be feasible to purchase a folding ramp that was long enough to decrease the angle to the point where you'd be more comfortable? It seems to me that there are better solutions than raising the height of the tow vehicle, but maybe I'm missing something.

 

[redbirds_imp]

There are some good folding ramps at Discount Ramps website. I purchased a non-folding ramp from them last summer and it works fine. I'm able to ride the CB and the V-strom onto the trailer without drama. You can buy ramps of different widths and lengths for your needs.

I bought this Full-Width Motorcycle Truck Ramps — Wide Motorcycle Ramps | Discount Ramps

 

[ride4now_imp]

Thanks Redbirds... I'll take a look.

 

[DGShannon_imp]

When I load my CB into my truck, I just backup to the curb, in my front yard. This drops the tailgate down to about 12 inches off the grass. I can easily sit on the bike and ride up the ramp, or roll backwards to unload. If you have a normal curb, it works great.

 

[ride4now_imp]

What do you think?

I measured out my plan for the 'lift'... 2x10's. Do you think 2 boards (4 inches high) or 3 boards (6 inches high) are needed. Per my original note, I want to lower the ramp angle on my trailer and this seems the easiest and safest way to do it.
My trailer is back in Florida so I can't 'test' it until next week. Your thoughts?










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I don't know... 4 inches might be enough.









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[ClassicVW_imp]

Around here we have driveway aprons, the "ramp" that's between the end of the driveway and the curb. I just back up my vehicle enough to put the end of the trailer ramp right up against the end of the driveway and I'm good to go. The rear wheels of the trailer are just low enough to almost make it a level ride into the trailer.

 

[Cormanus]

Can't wait to hear how you get on ride4now.

 

[JustPassinThru_imp]

If you put your machine onto a trailer that doesn't have a level deck as you load it...you're asking for trouble.

Be better off to either use a folding ramp in addition to the gate-ramp; or find a place with a rise you can back the car/trailer up against, so the angle on the ramp isn't so steep.

If you're desperate, you could try letting the air out of the trailer tires. Knowing that the bead might come off, and you'll have a time getting the tire changed with a load on it.

 

[the Ferret]

I put a 2x4 laying wide side down on the ground under the back edge of the ramp, which changes the angle a bit. I had requested a longer tailgate when I ordered the trailer, but unfortunately it was delivered with the standard tail gate.

 

[ride4now_imp]

Around here we have driveway aprons, the "ramp" that's between the end of the driveway and the curb. I just back up my vehicle enough to put the end of the trailer ramp right up against the end of the driveway and I'm good to go. The rear wheels of the trailer are just low enough to almost make it a level ride into the trailer.

ClassicVW... My driveway in Ga has that apron too and we live on a cul-de-sac so we'd be good here... but my place in Florida doesn't. Hence the need for a solution that I can take with me...

 

[DGShannon_imp]

Around here we have driveway aprons, the "ramp" that's between the end of the driveway and the curb. I just back up my vehicle enough to put the end of the trailer ramp right up against the end of the driveway and I'm good to go. The rear wheels of the trailer are just low enough to almost make it a level ride into the trailer.

ClassicVW... My driveway in Ga has that apron too and we live on a cul-de-sac so we'd be good here... but my place in Florida doesn't. Hence the need for a solution that I can take with me...

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.

 

[ride4now_imp]

Around here we have driveway aprons, the "ramp" that's between the end of the driveway and the curb. I just back up my vehicle enough to put the end of the trailer ramp right up against the end of the driveway and I'm good to go. The rear wheels of the trailer are just low enough to almost make it a level ride into the trailer.

ClassicVW... My driveway in Ga has that apron too and we live on a cul-de-sac so we'd be good here... but my place in Florida doesn't. Hence the need for a solution that I can take with me...

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.
DG...if the trailer is not attached to the vehicle during loading, what keeps the trailer from 'flopping' down in the rear from the weight and then dropping back down in the front as the weight shifts?

 

[redbirds_imp]

I keep a couple of adjustable jack stands in my trailer for the rare occasion when I need load when not attached to my truck.

 

[DGShannon_imp]

Around here we have driveway aprons, the "ramp" that's between the end of the driveway and the curb. I just back up my vehicle enough to put the end of the trailer ramp right up against the end of the driveway and I'm good to go. The rear wheels of the trailer are just low enough to almost make it a level ride into the trailer.

ClassicVW... My driveway in Ga has that apron too and we live on a cul-de-sac so we'd be good here... but my place in Florida doesn't. Hence the need for a solution that I can take with me...

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.
DG...if the trailer is not attached to the vehicle during loading, what keeps the trailer from 'flopping' down in the rear from the weight and then dropping back down in the front as the weight shifts?

Your boards under the truck tires raises the tongue of the trailer, and lowers it's rear for loading. Consider loading while the trailer is not attached to the truck. With a tongue jack (install one if you don't have it now) you can raise or lower the back of the trailer as much as you like, without even having to bring the truck into the picture. That, and your solution is then built into the trailer, so you don't have to haul boards around everywhere you go. They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading.
DG...if the trailer is not attached to the vehicle during loading, what keeps the trailer from 'flopping' down in the rear from the weight and then dropping back down in the front as the weight shifts?
As I said... "They also make little adjustable outrigger gizmos that you could mount on the back of the trailer, to stabilize the whole setup in the upright and locked position for loading." Or, as Redbird says, you can just use jack stands.

 

[emptysea]

What do you think?

I measured out my plan for the 'lift'... 2x10's. Do you think 2 boards (4 inches high) or 3 boards (6 inches high) are needed. Per my original note, I want to lower the ramp angle on my trailer and this seems the easiest and safest way to do it.
My trailer is back in Florida so I can't 'test' it until next week. Your thoughts?










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I don't know... 4 inches might be enough.









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This post is what happens when the angel on my shoulder :angel: is really Metallyguitarded :banana: in disguse.

 

[ride4now_imp]

It works!!

Here's what the incline looks like before I rode over the 'ramp' with the truck..


Here's the 'ramp'...



Here's the incline after riding up the ramp...much less severe of an angle.



Success!!!!



Of course it's not tied down to transport, and I have to install my wheel chock, but it works. You just leave the bike in gear and no problem. The biggest issue is backing down... you have to feather the clutch in 1st because you can't rely on the front wheel braking...as the wight shifts it'll slide. So you have to put power to the rear very lightly. It worked well!




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[Cormanus]

Nice work, ride4now. Simple but effective.

 

[ride4now_imp]

Nice work, ride4now. Simple but effective.

Thanks... I thought about going with the extra 2", and I still might. But this seemed to work fine. I can keep my feet on the 'ground' the whole time.