Cool.Dave_imp said:
tps evaluating for ii issues
- Thread starter max
- Start date
Doc, the loud noise I reported when I first turn on my key (that you asked me about) seems to have gone away. I still hear the sound of the fuel pump and (I think) IACV cycling when I turn on the key, but not as loud as it did on that one occasion.
[/QUOTE]
Doc, I have to take this answer back. After thinking it over carefully, and taking my bike for a spin tonite, I believe that the sound of the fuel pump and the IACV when I first turn on the key varies slightly, sometimes a little bit louder than other times. I believe that the post that you're referring to, when I stated the noise was louder, it had gotten louder than what was "normal" at that time (my bike was still pretty new), and I thought the louder sound indicated a problem. I believe that initially, when my bike was new, the sound was quieter, but now, the louder sound compared to when the bike was new is the new normal.
If only it will continue running this way!
[/QUOTE]
Doc, I have to take this answer back. After thinking it over carefully, and taking my bike for a spin tonite, I believe that the sound of the fuel pump and the IACV when I first turn on the key varies slightly, sometimes a little bit louder than other times. I believe that the post that you're referring to, when I stated the noise was louder, it had gotten louder than what was "normal" at that time (my bike was still pretty new), and I thought the louder sound indicated a problem. I believe that initially, when my bike was new, the sound was quieter, but now, the louder sound compared to when the bike was new is the new normal.
Cool.pdedse_imp said:
If only it will continue running this way!
max
Road warrior
Thread starter
Well Mr Dave that is the best news i have heard sofar and it is a relief to hear the good news.
As usual you come up with interesting and important bits of info in your post which i am mulling over.
i apologise to the audience for posting such a large picture which makes reading Dave's report difficult.
Please take your time to test and enjoy the bike as the states slowly get warmer.
max
As usual you come up with interesting and important bits of info in your post which i am mulling over.
i apologise to the audience for posting such a large picture which makes reading Dave's report difficult.
Please take your time to test and enjoy the bike as the states slowly get warmer.
max
It’s back, and with a vengeance. Rode the bike in town yesterday evening about 10 miles total, running an errand and going to dinner, and it ran perfectly. Rode it tonight on my normal 60 mile round trip to visit my mother-in-law and it ran perfectly all the way there, and 29 out of 30 miles on the way home. Trip is about 26 miles of freeway each way, which are a constant 70 mph on the way home. When I pulled off the freeway and stopped at the first light the idle dropped to 700 RPM, but quickly worked its way back up to 1,050 RPM by itself. This repeated at the next two stop lights, and when I reached my driveway, 1 mile away. Instead of pulling in I rode around the neighborhood, and at the second stop the engine stalled. I restarted it, and it stalled again. I restarted it again and it stalled a third time. The only way it would stay running this time is if I held the throttle slightly open. Normally, when this condition occurs, it drops to 700 RPM, and then slowly works its way back up to 1,050 RPM; it doesn’t usually stall. I rode home, about ¼ mile away, and when I reached my driveway it did the 700 RPM to 1.050 RPM routine. I turned the bike off and put it in the garage. I am going to unplug the TPS connection tomorrow and spray it with cleaner again, and work the connection off and on to try and clean any potential corrosion.
Max – I cannot open the picture on your post #98.
Max – I cannot open the picture on your post #98.
max
Road warrior
Thread starter
See if you can open this one.
one click opens in separate window and second click enlarges the view.
This is a picture from ebay, i don't have this throttle body.
Thanks to the good advice from sportsterdoc i have labelled the hoses for clarity.
The hoses are devided in two groups; the yellow ones are vacuum for the evap system and the blue ones are connected to the Manifold Air Pressure sensor.
What may be interesting to do is disconnecting both yellow outside ones that are easy to get out.
I can start my bike with the hose disconnected and dangling free ( i have only one of these and no evap system ) and idle it with very little effect, hot or cold that is;
------------ my iacv will correct the idle rpm to maintain 1050.----------
If your bike does the same thing then the iacv is doing it's job, and normally that would be the case.
However if you have a low idle in progress, you unplug the two outside hoses and the idle rpm goes up that would mean the iacv is closed and by unplugging the hoses you bypass the iacv to try and help it by doing it's job to achieve 1050 rpm .
This should be easy to try, see if you can pull the hoses off and push them on only halfway to make it easy to pull them out.
The fact that you told us that the idle slowly comes back to 1050 could be that the valve has difficulty in opening and closing ( stuck ) and the ecm eventually gets the job done.
max
one click opens in separate window and second click enlarges the view.
This is a picture from ebay, i don't have this throttle body.
Thanks to the good advice from sportsterdoc i have labelled the hoses for clarity.
The hoses are devided in two groups; the yellow ones are vacuum for the evap system and the blue ones are connected to the Manifold Air Pressure sensor.
What may be interesting to do is disconnecting both yellow outside ones that are easy to get out.
I can start my bike with the hose disconnected and dangling free ( i have only one of these and no evap system ) and idle it with very little effect, hot or cold that is;
------------ my iacv will correct the idle rpm to maintain 1050.----------
If your bike does the same thing then the iacv is doing it's job, and normally that would be the case.
However if you have a low idle in progress, you unplug the two outside hoses and the idle rpm goes up that would mean the iacv is closed and by unplugging the hoses you bypass the iacv to try and help it by doing it's job to achieve 1050 rpm .
This should be easy to try, see if you can pull the hoses off and push them on only halfway to make it easy to pull them out.
The fact that you told us that the idle slowly comes back to 1050 could be that the valve has difficulty in opening and closing ( stuck ) and the ecm eventually gets the job done.
max
Suggestion AS TO PCSV only
Make a long test short::
1* test condition:: engine hot/normal operating temp and NORMAL RPM (1050)
2* disconnect vacuum hose **that goes from PCSV to Th. body/intake manifold - NOT to canister = this will create vacuum leak or as if PCSV were stuck in open position (normally closed) and register RPM change. Please
3* Do not bother any other tests with EVAP/PCSV for now.
** careful, not to break nipple to PCSV
pb
[/QUOTE]
Hi peterbaron. Please excuse my ignorance. What is "AS"? PCSV = Purge Control Solenoid Valve, correct? Max is recommending that I disconnect the two EVAP system hoses (hoses identified with yellow marks in previous post), and I assume that this is the same thing as the PCSV? This seems like a pretty simple test that I can do. If my bike is running fine (1,050 RPM, warm idle) and I pull off these hoses what should I expect? I believe that Max is saying that if I pull these hoses off when experiencing a low idle condition and the idle speed increases, then this could point to a defective or sticking IACV, is this correct? Doc has suggested that I unplug the connection to the EVAP purge control solenoid valve (PCSV). Will doing this test achieve the same results as unplugging the two EVAP system hoses? This sounds like a pretty simple test that I can do also. Thank all of you guys for your continual support.
Make a long test short::
1* test condition:: engine hot/normal operating temp and NORMAL RPM (1050)
2* disconnect vacuum hose **that goes from PCSV to Th. body/intake manifold - NOT to canister = this will create vacuum leak or as if PCSV were stuck in open position (normally closed) and register RPM change. Please
3* Do not bother any other tests with EVAP/PCSV for now.
** careful, not to break nipple to PCSV
pb
[/QUOTE]
Hi peterbaron. Please excuse my ignorance. What is "AS"? PCSV = Purge Control Solenoid Valve, correct? Max is recommending that I disconnect the two EVAP system hoses (hoses identified with yellow marks in previous post), and I assume that this is the same thing as the PCSV? This seems like a pretty simple test that I can do. If my bike is running fine (1,050 RPM, warm idle) and I pull off these hoses what should I expect? I believe that Max is saying that if I pull these hoses off when experiencing a low idle condition and the idle speed increases, then this could point to a defective or sticking IACV, is this correct? Doc has suggested that I unplug the connection to the EVAP purge control solenoid valve (PCSV). Will doing this test achieve the same results as unplugging the two EVAP system hoses? This sounds like a pretty simple test that I can do also. Thank all of you guys for your continual support.
What is "AS"?
Ok, I went back and reread this and I believe I understand it now. "AS" is not an acronym, it's the word "as", correct?
In the Honda parts break-down, the PCSV is part number 36162-PLC-003. Will unplugging the connection have the same effect as disconnecting the two hoses recommended by Max, and will disconnecting the one hose connection on the PCSV have the same effect? I will perform each of these tests, if necessary. Thank you.
Ok, I went back and reread this and I believe I understand it now. "AS" is not an acronym, it's the word "as", correct?
In the Honda parts break-down, the PCSV is part number 36162-PLC-003. Will unplugging the connection have the same effect as disconnecting the two hoses recommended by Max, and will disconnecting the one hose connection on the PCSV have the same effect? I will perform each of these tests, if necessary. Thank you.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
Dave, ‘as’ is a word in his useage.
Unplugging the electrical connection will not be the same thing as removing the hoses.
Right now we are not sure when the purge valve is activated. As Max and Peter do not have one, I may play with that this weekend by just using a multimeter and trying to see when the voltage shows up to energize the PCSV.
I can also hook up my OBD tool and remove the hoses and see how the engine responds.
I’ll report my findings to Max (and Peter and Sportsterdoc) as he is pretty much the front man in our efforts here.
Unplugging the electrical connection will not be the same thing as removing the hoses.
Right now we are not sure when the purge valve is activated. As Max and Peter do not have one, I may play with that this weekend by just using a multimeter and trying to see when the voltage shows up to energize the PCSV.
I can also hook up my OBD tool and remove the hoses and see how the engine responds.
I’ll report my findings to Max (and Peter and Sportsterdoc) as he is pretty much the front man in our efforts here.
peterbaron
Road warrior
Dave,
"AS" forget about this...it should be written ..."as" far as to PCSV....
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1* test condition:: on center stand, engine hot/normal operating temp and NORMAL RPM (1050)..if for any reason is not within specs, wait until it stabilizes within..
2* disconnect THICK/YELLOW vacuum hose end **that goes from PCSV to Th. body/intake manifold = this will create vacuum leak or as if PCSV were stuck in open position (normally closed) and register RPM change....it may very, so watch it for a while..
** careful, not to break nipple to PCSV
Unplugging the electrical connection will not be the same thing as removing the hoses (Popgun is perfectly correct)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
YELLOW SKINNY HOSES DISCONNECTION...might be more difficult to achieve , since there is less access to inner throttles ??? have a look..
Max is recommending that I disconnect the two EVAP ( skinny vacuum hoses/yellow & blue, linking each th. body, Honda calls'em MAP vacuum hoses) system hoses (hoses identified with yellow marks in previous post), and I assume that this is the same thing as the PCSV?(..generally, all seems to go to intake manifold) . This seems like a pretty simple test that I can do. If my bike is running fine (1,050 RPM, warm idle) and I pull off these hoses what should I expect = YOU SHOULD SEE RPM CHANGE...watch for a while what is happening with RPM...may go up, down...
Let us know, please... before next step as per Max/SportsterDoc/Popgun
pb
"AS" forget about this...it should be written ..."as" far as to PCSV....
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1* test condition:: on center stand, engine hot/normal operating temp and NORMAL RPM (1050)..if for any reason is not within specs, wait until it stabilizes within..
2* disconnect THICK/YELLOW vacuum hose end **that goes from PCSV to Th. body/intake manifold = this will create vacuum leak or as if PCSV were stuck in open position (normally closed) and register RPM change....it may very, so watch it for a while..
** careful, not to break nipple to PCSV
Unplugging the electrical connection will not be the same thing as removing the hoses (Popgun is perfectly correct)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
YELLOW SKINNY HOSES DISCONNECTION...might be more difficult to achieve , since there is less access to inner throttles ??? have a look..
Max is recommending that I disconnect the two EVAP ( skinny vacuum hoses/yellow & blue, linking each th. body, Honda calls'em MAP vacuum hoses) system hoses (hoses identified with yellow marks in previous post), and I assume that this is the same thing as the PCSV?(..generally, all seems to go to intake manifold) . This seems like a pretty simple test that I can do. If my bike is running fine (1,050 RPM, warm idle) and I pull off these hoses what should I expect = YOU SHOULD SEE RPM CHANGE...watch for a while what is happening with RPM...may go up, down...
Let us know, please... before next step as per Max/SportsterDoc/Popgun
pb
Update: I thoroughly re-cleaned the TPS connector last night and took the bike for a ride around town. 5 miles into the ride the low idle condition (700 RPM, slow return to 1,050 RPM, but no stalling) returned. So I thought really hard about what could have changed to bring on this condition, since the bike ran perfectly last Sunday, Monday evening, and Tuesday evening, and I think I have hit on something, and that is the gasoline. I refilled the tank Tuesday evening, putting 3.94 gallons in it. Wednesday evening, after driving almost 60 miles on the freeway, the low idle condition returned as soon as I exited the freeway (it may have returned earlier if it wasn’t for the freeway driving, where the problem does not occur). I most always buy my gas from name brand stations, but occasionally, like last Wednesday, I filled up at a 7-11 station, where there wasn’t even a name on the brand of gas. I always purchase the premium grade. Here in California we have what is called “summer blend” and “winter blend” gas, and the difference being the Reid Vapor Pressure. So on Saturday I am going to drain my tank and refill it with gas from a Chevron station, where I normally buy it in my neighborhood, and see what happens. Do any of you guys have any thoughts on this? I can’t think of any other variable that changed from Sunday, when the bike ran perfect, to today, with the low idle condition. Can you please post your comments? Thanks again for all your help guys!
peterbaron_imp said:Dave,
"AS" forget about this...it should be written ..."as" far as to PCSV....
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1* test condition:: on center stand, engine hot/normal operating temp and NORMAL RPM (1050)..if for any reason is not within specs, wait until it stabilizes within..
2* disconnect THICK/YELLOW vacuum hose end **that goes from PCSV to Th. body/intake manifold = this will create vacuum leak or as if PCSV were stuck in open position (normally closed) and register RPM change....it may very, so watch it for a while..
** careful, not to break nipple to PCSV
Unplugging the electrical connection will not be the same thing as removing the hoses (Popgun is perfectly correct)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
YELLOW SKINNY HOSES DISCONNECTION...might be more difficult to achieve , since there is less access to inner throttles ??? have a look..
Max is recommending that I disconnect the two EVAP ( skinny vacuum hoses/yellow & blue, linking each th. body, Honda calls'em MAP vacuum hoses) system hoses (hoses identified with yellow marks in previous post), and I assume that this is the same thing as the PCSV?(..generally, all seems to go to intake manifold) . This seems like a pretty simple test that I can do. If my bike is running fine (1,050 RPM, warm idle) and I pull off these hoses what should I expect = YOU SHOULD SEE RPM CHANGE...watch for a while what is happening with RPM...may go up, down...
Let us know, please... before next step as per Max/SportsterDoc/Popgun
pb
Dave, while I can't answer the question, I can report on my last 5-6 weeks with my bike after I had cleaned the TPS connection.Dave_imp said:Update: I thoroughly re-cleaned the TPS connector last night and took the bike for a ride around town. 5 miles into the ride the low idle condition (700 RPM, slow return to 1,050 RPM, but no stalling) returned. So I thought really hard about what could have changed to bring on this condition, since the bike ran perfectly last Sunday, Monday evening, and Tuesday evening, and I think I have hit on something, and that is the gasoline. I refilled the tank Tuesday evening, putting 3.94 gallons in it. Wednesday evening, after driving almost 60 miles on the freeway, the low idle condition returned as soon as I exited the freeway (it may have returned earlier if it wasn’t for the freeway driving, where the problem does not occur). I most always buy my gas from name brand stations, but occasionally, like last Wednesday, I filled up at a 7-11 station, where there wasn’t even a name on the brand of gas. I always purchase the premium grade. Here in California we have what is called “summer blend” and “winter blend” gas, and the difference being the Reid Vapor Pressure. So on Saturday I am going to drain my tank and refill it with gas from a Chevron station, where I normally buy it in my neighborhood, and see what happens. Do any of you guys have any thoughts on this? I can’t think of any other variable that changed from Sunday, when the bike ran perfect, to today, with the low idle condition. Can you please post your comments? Thanks again for all your help guys!
peterbaron_imp said:Dave,
"AS" forget about this...it should be written ..."as" far as to PCSV....
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
1* test condition:: on center stand, engine hot/normal operating temp and NORMAL RPM (1050)..if for any reason is not within specs, wait until it stabilizes within..
2* disconnect THICK/YELLOW vacuum hose end **that goes from PCSV to Th. body/intake manifold = this will create vacuum leak or as if PCSV were stuck in open position (normally closed) and register RPM change....it may very, so watch it for a while..
** careful, not to break nipple to PCSV
Unplugging the electrical connection will not be the same thing as removing the hoses (Popgun is perfectly correct)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
YELLOW SKINNY HOSES DISCONNECTION...might be more difficult to achieve , since there is less access to inner throttles ??? have a look..
Max is recommending that I disconnect the two EVAP ( skinny vacuum hoses/yellow & blue, linking each th. body, Honda calls'em MAP vacuum hoses) system hoses (hoses identified with yellow marks in previous post), and I assume that this is the same thing as the PCSV?(..generally, all seems to go to intake manifold) . This seems like a pretty simple test that I can do. If my bike is running fine (1,050 RPM, warm idle) and I pull off these hoses what should I expect = YOU SHOULD SEE RPM CHANGE...watch for a while what is happening with RPM...may go up, down...
Let us know, please... before next step as per Max/SportsterDoc/Popgun
pb
Before doing the TPS cleaning, I had taken the bike into a dealership and they were trying to help with a few ideas before I committed to letting them have a go at finding the problem...which I never gave them the chance to do. The service tech said try the highest grade gas at Chevron for a few fills to see if that would help. He said that it wouldn't be the first time that idle issues that he sees from time to time were alleviated by better quality gas. Till that point I had filled wherever was convenient and cheap. So I switched to higher grade gas at Chevron at the same time the TPS was cleaned, and as I've mentioned before, the problem didn't return for 8 half-hour to two hour rides with exception of two dips to 900rpm, then back to 1000 with fully warm engine.
At times I'm sorry I didn't stick with the bike just for wanting to find out what it could be, but I got tired of the mental "high/lows" as well as the idle's.
What I find perplexing is that some members here report that their idle issue simply "went away" after some time...and never came back. If there is a defective TPS, ECU, IACV or whatever alphabet part, why would someone's issue "go away" unless it were something simple like loose / bad TPS connection, loose hoses, or.... "inferior" gasoline? So strange...but others more knowledgeable will chime in.
Continuous "get well" wishes for your CB.
What I find perplexing is that some members here report that their idle issue simply "went away" after some time...and never came back. If there is a defective TPS, ECU, IACV or whatever alphabet part, why would someone's issue "go away" unless it were something simple like loose / bad TPS connection, loose hoses, or.... "inferior" gasoline? So strange...but others more knowledgeable will chime in.
Continuous "get well" wishes for your CB.
[/QUOTE]
Hi Paul. Thank you for your feedback, and well wishes. I am not giving up! Thanks to all the support from several different forum members, between all of us we will get to the bottom of this.
Continuous "get well" wishes for your CB.
[/QUOTE]
Hi Paul. Thank you for your feedback, and well wishes. I am not giving up! Thanks to all the support from several different forum members, between all of us we will get to the bottom of this.
max
Road warrior
Thread starter
some pictures to clarify
Just to show how easy these outer skinny hoses are to get to i included three pictures.
Only pull off one outer hose on each side as shown in the pictures marked yellow, do not pull off any more, the blue skinny hoses are for the map sensor and need to stay in place.
I have difficulty in expressing which hoses to pull off at which time ,let's just say that you should have two skinny very outer vacuum hoses disconnected at the time of the test as per the picture, not four.
The hoses were a little stuck at first so i put them back halfway to make it easy to pull them off.
Just to show how easy these outer skinny hoses are to get to i included three pictures.
Only pull off one outer hose on each side as shown in the pictures marked yellow, do not pull off any more, the blue skinny hoses are for the map sensor and need to stay in place.
I have difficulty in expressing which hoses to pull off at which time ,let's just say that you should have two skinny very outer vacuum hoses disconnected at the time of the test as per the picture, not four.
The hoses were a little stuck at first so i put them back halfway to make it easy to pull them off.
Houtman_imp
Road warrior
I ALWAYS buy top tier gas ( 90 % of the time Shell) and the 93 grade.
Many riders are probably buying cheaper gas ( name/ no name )but so far all my 3 CB 1100 's run perfect all the time , the extra money I pay is worth it.
It might have nothing to do with the idle problems but could be related to some of the issues.
Many riders are probably buying cheaper gas ( name/ no name )but so far all my 3 CB 1100 's run perfect all the time , the extra money I pay is worth it.
It might have nothing to do with the idle problems but could be related to some of the issues.
Can't speak for the quality of gasoline in the USA, but I always put standard petrol in the CB because that's what Honda says it's designed to use. No problems to speak of with running, although I did notice the other day that, when the bike was really hot after a long run and I came to a stop, the RPM dipped to about 900 and then climbed back up to normal. When I think about it, this has happened before, but only very occasionally and it is not enough of an issue to worry me. Should it be?
Bikes sold in America are built to meet different emission standards. I asked Honda to remap my ECM with a map used in Europe (because someone from Europe had posted that his ECM was remapped by Honda and it cured the problem) and Honda responded that they could not do this because of the U.S. emissions standards. At one time the Japanese bike manufacturers sold bikes that were 48 state emissions compliant, and bikes that were 2 states (Ca and NY) compliant (cars also). My 1998 VFR800 is like this, but I don't believe this is the case with the CB1100. Ca and NY had (may still have) stricter emissions standards than the rest of the country. We also use a "Summer Blend" of fuel, and a "Winter Blend" of fuel. I am going to drain the "no name" fuel I purchased at the 7-11 station and refill if with Chevron fuel to see what happens.
peterbaron
Road warrior
+1 or better as already stated im my posts.....Houtman_imp said:
pb
Dave, are the US emission standards stricter that the European one the CB1100 complies with?
And, yes, the CB1100 is a 50-state bike.
And, yes, the CB1100 is a 50-state bike.
Update: Drained the fuel out of the CB yesterday and rode it immediately to the Chevron gas station about 1 mile from my house, where I filled it up with premium (luckily I didn’t end up pushing it). I proceeded to ride the bike around town to test my theory that the gasoline is responsible for the reoccurring low idle issue. As the engine warmed up over the first ½ mile the normal cold idle speed reduced to 1,050 RPM at the first and second stops. At the third stop, the RPM dropped to 700, but worked its way back to 1,050 RPM, similarly to how it acts when the low idle condition exists. At the fourth stop it dropped to 700 RPM, but this time it worked back up to 1,050 RPM quicker than it normally does. At the fifth and sixth stops the RPM dropped each time, but each time it returned to 1,050 RPM very quickly (much quicker than I have ever seen it). From there on the RPM never dropped to 700 again, and I continued my ride for 12 miles, making one stop to turn the engine off for about 15 minutes and then restart it. I can’t say that a similar scenario where the low idle condition ever “cured” itself while riding like this has ever happened before or not, I just don’t remember exactly. I plan to ride the bike this morning to run some errands and I will report back on the results.
Since I purchased this bike about 75% of my fill-ups have been at the same Chevron station, which is located about 1 mile from my house. I have just over 17,000 miles on the bike now, and I have never used anything but premium grade fuel whenever I have filled the tank. I always look for name brand stations when I fill up, but occasionally, either out of necessity or convenience, I will fill up at a non-name brand station. I have never paid any attention to when the low idle condition occurred with respect to fill-ups, but based on the results described above I will now use only Chevron fuel at all fill-ups, unless forced to do otherwise.
Chevron uses an additive called Techron, which is a detergent based on PEA, polyeter amine. I won’t go on describing what I learned about Chevron fuel in this post, but for those of you interested please look it up. Is it possible that the ECM in my bike has learned how to operate on Chevron fuel with the Techron additive, and that using different fuels cause the low idle condition? I can’t answer this, but I am sure some of you guys out there can offer your insight (Max, Doc, popgun, peterbaron). Gentlemen - please post your comments!
Since I purchased this bike about 75% of my fill-ups have been at the same Chevron station, which is located about 1 mile from my house. I have just over 17,000 miles on the bike now, and I have never used anything but premium grade fuel whenever I have filled the tank. I always look for name brand stations when I fill up, but occasionally, either out of necessity or convenience, I will fill up at a non-name brand station. I have never paid any attention to when the low idle condition occurred with respect to fill-ups, but based on the results described above I will now use only Chevron fuel at all fill-ups, unless forced to do otherwise.
Chevron uses an additive called Techron, which is a detergent based on PEA, polyeter amine. I won’t go on describing what I learned about Chevron fuel in this post, but for those of you interested please look it up. Is it possible that the ECM in my bike has learned how to operate on Chevron fuel with the Techron additive, and that using different fuels cause the low idle condition? I can’t answer this, but I am sure some of you guys out there can offer your insight (Max, Doc, popgun, peterbaron). Gentlemen - please post your comments!
