Thought I was done with the CB - trying again (forks)

[ohiorider_imp]

Still liking what for me is a major suspension improvement. Just need some opinions on:
- Least expensive way to lower foot pegs approx 3/4" and move them forward same amount.
- Handlebars that would fit my 5'7" (and 32" sleeve length) better. Don't want monkey bars.
- stock bars too much of a reach unless I'm running 75mph +.
- not sure what I need. I know Honda offers (in Asia) a diff bar for the CB.
- Saddle, Stocker has me feeling like I'm sliding into the tank, and no thigh support. Thinking Corbin.

Thanks,

Bob

 

[Houtman_imp]

You probably will like the standard Corbin , I at 6 ft prefer the higher version.

 

[ohiorider_imp]

You probably will like the standard Corbin , I at 6 ft prefer the higher version.

I'm thinking the standard Gunfighter. I've ridden with that saddle on both a W650 and a 2003 Triumph T100, and it worked for me then.

Bob

 

[SCCBrider_imp]

Hey Bob, as for the handlebars, I am 5'8". I just took mine and tilted them back about an inch, or so.
Ken

11

Still liking what for me is a major suspension improvement. Just need some opinions on:
- Least expensive way to lower foot pegs approx 3/4" and move them forward same amount.
- Handlebars that would fit my 5'7" (and 32" sleeve length) better. Don't want monkey bars.
- stock bars too much of a reach unless I'm running 75mph +.
- not sure what I need. I know Honda offers (in Asia) a diff bar for the CB.
- Saddle, Stocker has me feeling like I'm sliding into the tank, and no thigh support. Thinking Corbin.

Thanks,

Bob

 

[LongRanger_imp]

Flanders has a great selection of bars. Google and look.

 

[Aussieflyer]

Great to see that your suspension is coming along nicely. I think you'll feel better with the 0.80 or 0.85 kg/mm springs. Did you end up using those pre-drilled damping rods or drill out the original Honda units?

WRT ergos there's a couple of low cost options you could play around with to see if they work for you:
1. handle bar risers from ebay (item # 151690872221), and
2. multi step adjustable foot pegs from ebay (item # 152243475905).

 

[ohiorider_imp]

Thanks for all the helpful info, everyone.

Bob

Great to see that your suspension is coming along nicely. I think you'll feel better with the 0.80 or 0.85 kg/mm springs. Did you end up using those pre-drilled damping rods or drill out the original Honda units?

WRT ergos there's a couple of low cost options you could play around with to see if they work for you:
1. handle bar risers from ebay (item # 151690872221), and
2. multi step adjustable foot pegs from ebay (item # 152243475905).

Aussieflyer, I used the pre-drilled damper rods from Traxxion Dynamics, who also supplied the RaceTech Valves as part of their kit. They supplied fork springs (1.0 kg/mm,) which I exchanged with them for .90 springs.

Since I'd had good experience in the past working with Race Tech, I began working with their technician via phone. He asked about the number of bleed holes in the RT emulators, and recommended adding two more holes per valve (done), and reducing the blue (medium weight) valve spring preload to two turns (done), all of which made the bike's front end more compliant. He also suggested that if it still felt too stiff, I could drop to either .85 or .80 fork springs, and could change to the lightest weight (silver) emulator springs. So that's next.

BTW - like the looks (and price) on the adjustable foot pegs.

 

[spacetiger_imp]

Bob,

For free, you can also drop the oil fill level in the forks. There is plenty of oil for the damping function. The oil level [also] sets the size of the air chamber so by default it sets the "air spring". If you go lower (2" lower is safe) you can soften up the overall spring rate.

Jerry

 

[nhawk7504_imp]

The big issue is usually damping and I've had the same problem on many a stock machine. My TU250 was among the best and it was a CHEAP bike. It did dive under hard braking but those forks and shocks sure soaked up the hard stuff at slow to moderate speeds. Hard suspension doesn't run wide at higher speeds on bumpy corners and there is a reason why MotoGP riders get their suspension redialed for many tracks. - I liked my 02 FZ1 which had fully adjustable front and rear suspension. I'd mess with all the settings, all the way one way and then all the way to the other and then slightly back on the end I liked.

 

[SportsterDoc]

The big issue is usually damping and I've had the same problem on many a stock machine. My TU250 was among the best and it was a CHEAP bike. It did dive under hard braking but those forks and shocks sure soaked up the hard stuff at slow to moderate speeds. Hard suspension doesn't run wide at higher speeds on bumpy corners and there is a reason why MotoGP riders get their suspension redialed for many tracks. - I liked my 02 FZ1 which had fully adjustable front and rear suspension. I'd mess with all the settings, all the way one way and then all the way to the other and then slightly back on the end I liked.

As did my 2002 Sportster 1200 Sport.
Eventually I ended up with all settings in the middle.
Perhaps because I am the same rider weight as is generally used for testing, such as stopping distances.
The FZ01 was an impressive machine, with 3500 more RPM, most power 8K-12K, high compression.

Specs of Honda CB1100 Deluxe and Yamaha FZ1

The FZ09 is also amazing for its engine size.

 

[kennyw]

Slowly but surely working toward a better (for me) ride on our secondary roads.

Now running with:
- .90 fork springs vs the 1.00 weight springs I originally used.
- drilled the Race Tech valve so that each now has four bleeds vs two. Recommended by Race Tech.
- Using Race Tech Blue valving springs, preload now 2 turns vs 3 turns
- running Honda 10W fork oil, 150mm below top of fork tube when compressed
- Ikon rear shocks

Is it perfect? No, but for me an order of magnitude better. (not really sure what 'an order of magnitude' really is
........ it just rides lots better.

Future options
- change from .90 to .80 fork springs (softer)
- install lighter Race Tech valve preload springs for quicker hydraulic release.

But the good news is, I'm beginning to put some miles on the bike now. Mostly shorter day rides of 70-100 miles, but prior to the changes, the bike sat most of the time. The CB sits in the garage between my 1991 R100GS with over 155,000 miles and the Moto Guzzi 1200 Sport with over 67,000 miles. Catching up with these old twins will be hard, but may, just maybe, I'm getting acclimated to the Honda 4 cylinder. I didn't ride them growing up, so the Honda nostalgia isn't part of my genetic makeup.

Bob

An order of magnitude is comparing 1 to 10, 10 to 100, 100 to 1000, etc.

 

[ohiorider_imp]

She just turned 5000 miles. I realize that isn't much in the total scheme of things, but considering that I wasn't even riding the bike, adding over 1000 miles in the past month says something positive is happening.

I have a bit more work to do to the front forks before it'll work for me, but RaceTech seems to be steering me in the right direction for not a lot of $$.

I will say ..... Honda has made this 1140cc engine make power totally differently than the IL4s that have to be wrung up to 12,000rpm to appreciate them. I'm stunned at the speed this little bike makes when she's taken up to 5k rpm in 2, 3, and 4th. One very high, flat torque band.

This bike, once I get the suspension sorted, could be a keeper ..... the bike that is just always ready for a ride!

Bob

 

[DBM_imp]

I am 260 ready to ride, and have the spring preload set in the middle of the range front and rear. So far all is good.

 

[ohiorider_imp]

I am 260 ready to ride, and have the spring preload set in the middle of the range front and rear. So far all is good.

You make a good point. I imagine that Honda made the bike to handle moderate to good road surfaces, while carrying a rider that weighs 40-60 pounds or more than I do. Or to handle two up-riding. I weigh in at 160, and don't put a dent in the suspension. But with help from RaceTech, I'm getting the bike where it'll work for me.

Bob

 

[ohiorider_imp]

Next step ..... I have a set of .80 fork springs on the way, as well as the lighter 'tiny little springs' that control when the RaceTech valves open. Additionally, going back to the OEM (Honda) damper rods, but with a few more holes drilled in them, per the Race Tech setup documentation. I'll let you guys and gals know if this gets the CB to the point where it is really a compliant ride for me.

Part of the issue is certainly the fact that I'll be 76 in January, and have a few more aches and pains than I did 10-20 years ago.

So my goal is to get the CB1100 to be a 'rubber cow' like many of the BMW airheads I've ridden over the years. I think the Germans call them 'Gummikuhs.'

Bob

 

[el duque_imp]

Quote:An order of magnitude is comparing 1 to 10, 10 to 100, 100 to 1000, etc.
thanks for that. I learned something new today!!:banana:

 

[DBM_imp]

My new leftover 2014 standard rides like a dream. What problems are you guys trying to solve?

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Comfort- jarring hits on pot holes, expansion cracks, etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ohiorider_imp]

That pretty well sums it up.

Bob

 

[DBM_imp]

Has anyone tried lighter weight fork oil to free up the compression damping?