Maybe it’s because I worked in advertising for many years, but any car or motorcycle that I have listed for sale has sold within days of my listing be it Craig’s or EBay. I surf Craig’s for bikes regularly and cringe at half the ads I see.
I think much of it depends on good photos. When I sold my BMW to buy the CB there was a same year R1200R that had been listed for much less than my asking price for 45 days. Mine sold in one day, and the buyer said the photos sold the bike. Here’s what has worked for me:
Select a good, neutral place to stage your photos. I like to use a park. It shows that I took more effort to take good pictures than just snapping them in my dark garage, without being dramatic (beach, mountains, etc) or like I selected pictures from one of my rides. I’m being clinical to show potential buyers the details of my bike.
I usually shoot in the evening so bright sun doesn’t wash out details, and stand so that I’m not reflected in the pictures.
Make sure the bike is as clean as you can get it. Don’t wash it then take pictures of it wet or sitting on a wet surface. This would suggest that it’s normally abused and dirty, but I washed it to take these photos.
I don’t take beauty shots, I take shots that show as much detail to the buyer and to show the condition of areas of my bike that might be trouble spots. Take full shots of the bike from a low angle.
Full shot of each side, one each. I don’t need to see the same four pictures of the right side. Full front, full rear. Put a piece of neutral color tape over your license number if you wish. Covering the plate with your hand or a rag suggests you were in a rush to get some quick snaps.
Shot of the instrument panel with gauges lit and functioning. Shot of the seat off showing cleanliness of the underseat area and wiring.
Shots of any areas that could be subject to abuse or wear, like the seat, header pipes, muffler, and shot of the tank from above.
I don’t take pics of every farkle on the bike. I realize that if my bike has several modifications, it won’t appeal to as large an audience. You may not like all of my decisions about what would make the perfect version of this model. I’ll let you decide once you’re in the driveway and are already falling in love with it.
The description is also key. Keep it neutral. Don’t tell me a story about how, after several years, you have made the difficult decision to sell your baby. Or how you’ve taken so many memorable trips on it.
Describe the condition accurately but without flourishing. If it’s in perfect condition say so but don’t elaborate.
List aftermarket additions briefly without saying how they make it a better machine for you personally. I don’t care that you added risers because you could’nt reach the bars or that the seat was hard for you so you replaced it.
Brand of tire and approximate mileage unless they are worn or old. Don’t wave me off at this point about potential costs I’ll need to put in before I even see it. Tell me when I get there and am falling in love with it.
Point out rare oem additions this bike may have like a center stand, tool kit, etc.
Here’s a little hook I like to use. If you have two of something like a factory exhaust and an aftermarket , two seats, etc, I’ll say “buyer gets both if sold at asking price.” Added parts become bargaining chips you can use during negotiation.
Remember, the first impression is key. Someone standing in your driveway to look at your bike made the effort to come to you to see it. It will have a veneer of perfection for a few minutes while you start talking. Anything glaring will shake that veneer quickly like oil leaks, dirt and grease, etc.
If the bike runs well, I have the buyer put a hand on the engine to show it’s cold, and that I haven’t pre-warmed a cantankerous machine before he got there. Let the buyer hit the button and hear a cold start.
Good luck, and hope this helps. If you like, I can send a link to my recent BMW ad I described.
