SW-Motech Crash/Engine Bar Problem

[Gumby 1100_imp]

I experienced a slight problem installing the SW-Motech Crash/Engine Bars on my 2014 CB1100A (Canadian).

Sadorus' Blog

They supply two longer engine bolts, but no nut with each and advise that the stock washers and nuts be used. The bolts they supplied were the wrong thread pitch for the stock nut and could not be used without purchasing new matching nuts. Either they wrongly packed the incorrect bolt, or the '14 CB1100 Canadian & DLX use a different thread pitch (unlikely). Instead I used the stock engine mount bolts which were just long enough when I substituted thinner stainless steel washers which I had on hand. I figured that this was safe as the crash bar flanges act as washers to distribute bolt load anyway and there are still a few threads extending from the nut.

There is also no way the bars can be installed using the bolt/assembly order they suggest. You will need to feed ALL Three bolts thru the bars first, then mate the bar up to the bike. Once I figured that out, the other side was a breeze.

Other than that, they look good (as in the link), matching the black frame and darker accents on the engine. Chrome bars wouldn't look as good on this model. Let's hope I don't need to test out their crash worthiness any time soon

 

[Rocky_imp]

Thanks for this because I have a set of SW Motech crash bars coming in the mail and probably would have run into the very same thing.
Thanks again for posting this. Our other Canadian brothers will appreciate this too

I agree about the chrome bars. They would look too "added on" whereas the SW's blend in and look "factory."
I looked at all the options and decided on SW.

Eventually, I would like to fit a rear carrier, but right now there seems to be a question about what fits the '14 and what doesn't.

I shop at Vicious Cycle too and just today received a Fenda Extenda from them that was on back order.
The farkles will soon be starting!!

 

[Gumby 1100_imp]

Thanks for this because I have a set of SW Motech crash bars coming in the mail and probably would have run into the very same thing.
Thanks again for posting this. Our other Canadian brothers will appreciate this too

I agree about the chrome bars. They would look too "added on" whereas the SW's blend in and look "factory."
I looked at all the options and decided on SW.

Eventually, I would like to fit a rear carrier, but right now there seems to be a question about what fits the '14 and what doesn't.

I shop at Vicious Cycle too and just today received a Fenda Extenda from them that was on back order.
The farkles will soon be starting!!

 

[Lord Popgun]

It is not necessary to drill holes in the fender to mount the FendaExtenda. It may be bonded on with an appropriate adhesive, which is what more than one of us has done.

 

[Rocky_imp]

It is not necessary to drill holes in the fender to mount the FendaExtenda. It may be bonded on with an appropriate adhesive, which is what more than one of us has done.

I put a Fenda Extenda on my CB900F with strong adhesive and it's never moved in 10-11 years.
I plan to do the same with this one. I couldn't bear drilling holes in the fender.
The instructions suggest removing the fender to fit it and that's what I'm going to do.

BTW, I forgot to mention in the other post that Twisted Throttle also sent along a 272 page catalogue with the Extenda.
WOW, the "stuff" that is available is amazing - but not a lot for the CB - yet.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Rocky,

The Extenda DID come with little plastic push rivets that I wouldn't trust to hold anything. I, personally, used a marine adhesive. Others used an epoxy.

Gumby, if you search around you can find our threads on this.

And removing the fender is a good idea. It is easy and you can clean it properly and then do a nice job with the adhesive. I would advise scuffing both mating surfaces with sandpaper or whatever you think is good to make for a good bond. At least do the plastic and wipe both surfaces with a good degreaser (acetone will melt the plastic).

 

[Rocky_imp]

Rocky,

The Extenda DID come with little plastic push rivets that I wouldn't trust to hold anything. I, personally, used a marine adhesive. Others used an epoxy.

Gumby, if you search around you can find our threads on this.

And removing the fender is a good idea. It is easy and you can clean it properly and then do a nice job with the adhesive. I would advise scuffing both mating surfaces with sandpaper or whatever you think is good to make for a good bond. At least do the plastic and wipe both surfaces with a good degreaser (acetone will melt the plastic).

My Pyramid Extenda only came with instructions to use a strong adhesive and to degrease and scuff up the mating surfaces first for good adhesion - also suggesting that removing the fender makes the job easier and using clamps overnight or for 24 hours before riding the bike.

I saw the thread(s) here on the forum about fitting the Extenda which is what led me to getting one.

 

[CB4ME_imp]

I didn't have any problems when I installed the SW Motech crash bars a couple weeks ago. Everything worked as advertised. No issues reusing stock nuts.

I'd get on the horn and have them send out the correct botls or new nuts asap. I would really be suprised in there were differences between the 2013 and 2014.

There are differences between the 2013 and 2014 when it comes to the rear carrier. Samurider lists the rear carrier for the 2014.

As far as the Fenda Extenda, on some bikes you need fastners. On the CB1100, use a good epoxy. I did and you'd have to cut the extensions off if you decided to remove them.

 

[Dakota_imp]

I seem to recall that the torque spec was incorrect for one of the bolts; can't remember which one....

 

[Lord Popgun]

Rocky, I also clamped mine overnight. IIRC the instructions were to bond it, but it did come with the little plasic rivets. They are in my parts bin.

To stay on topic, I didn't get crash bars. I installed sliders.

 

[rboe]

Sounds like you have a unique problem there. My SW-Motech install went very well too. Bummer that you ran into problems.

 

[Gumby 1100_imp]

Sounds like you have a unique problem there. My SW-Motech install went very well too. Bummer that you ran into problems.

In retrospect, I don't really consider it a problem. The stock bolts are long enough and appear to be of better quality/grade than the cheaper, plated versions SW-Motech supplied.

All I have to worry about now is how long it will take for the plated U-Bolts to start corroding. :dodgy:
For the money, stainless steel hardware would have been nice.

 

[rboe]

With your winters and the attending salt I would encourage you to install stainless steel bits now instead of waiting for the stock bits to rust.

 

[Gumby 1100_imp]

With your winters and the attending salt I would encourage you to install stainless steel bits now instead of waiting for the stock bits to rust.

...so says the man from Hot, Dry, Arizona

I envy the fact that you can drive year-round!

My bikes never see Winter and rarely ever see rain.

They go into protective hibernation, usually in late November and don't come out until April (or until the winter salt and sand have been washed off the roads). Just before their induced sleep, I change the oil, treat them with rust inhibitor where required and hook up the optimate tender. I'm glad to get back to a retro-air cooled engine so that I no longer have to worry about coolant. The last Canadian Winter just about tested the limits of the anti-freeze in my Vulcan 1700 since my garage is not heated!

 

[rboe]

I used to live in Duluth, and at times I'd rather be back there. Year around is a bit of a stretch. When the lows are 100 (even at midnight) it's like riding in a hair drier. Ride too long, you'll look like a mummy.

And batteries. Heat eats batteries like candy.

 

[Rocky_imp]

With your winters and the attending salt I would encourage you to install stainless steel bits now instead of waiting for the stock bits to rust.

...so says the man from Hot, Dry, Arizona

I envy the fact that you can drive year-round!

My bikes never see Winter and rarely ever see rain.

They go into protective hibernation, usually in late November and don't come out until April (or until the winter salt and sand have been washed off the roads). Just before their induced sleep, I change the oil, treat them with rust inhibitor where required and hook up the optimate tender. I'm glad to get back to a retro-air cooled engine so that I no longer have to worry about coolant. The last Canadian Winter just about tested the limits of the anti-freeze in my Vulcan 1700 since my garage is not heated!

...so says the man from Hot, Dry, Arizona

I envy the fact that you can drive year-round!

My bikes never see Winter and rarely ever see rain.

They go into protective hibernation, usually in late November and don't come out until April (or until the winter salt and sand have been washed off the roads). Just before their induced sleep, I change the oil, treat them with rust inhibitor where required and hook up the optimate tender. I'm glad to get back to a retro-air cooled engine so that I no longer have to worry about coolant. The last Canadian Winter just about tested the limits of the anti-freeze in my Vulcan 1700 since my garage is not heated!
These are the facts of life when you live in Canada. My bikes are stored in my basement where it's warm and dry from around 1 November to about the end of April - depending on weather conditions. My bikes never see a speck of road salt and I only ride in the rain if I get caught out on the road.
This past winter was especially bad and long and spring weather has been terrible so not much riding so far this year. I've had the CB for over a month now and it only has 320 km's on it.