Stock Suspension Adjustment

[riggies_imp]

Is there a way to adjust the stock suspension for a heavier rider? It looks adjustable, but Since I have no idea what I am doing with it I was going to defer to you guys. 220 pounds geared up I am, I’m not going to spend any money on new fork oil or springs. So, is there any preload or sag I should adjust on the stock suspension? Thanks!

 

[Lord Popgun]

You can adjust the rear. You just need a shock adjuster wrench (also referred to as a spanner). They are cheap.

 

[the Ferret]

You can adjust the front a bit as well by using a large flat blade screwdriver and screw the caps down until there is only 1 ring showing on each. Make sure you line up the screw heads the same.

Both adjustments are outlined in your owners manual

 

[riggies_imp]

what direction on the rear do I need to go to set it up for a heavier rider?

 

[the Ferret]

Look at the adjustment, you want to squash the spring more. I think it would be the shallowest dip.

You will lose suspension travel with these adjustments but it will support your weight better.

 

[LongRanger_imp]

riggies, I'm the same weight as you and haven't bothered to adjust the suspension. I agree with earlier replies -- check your owner's manual for guidance.

 

[riggies_imp]

Cool. It’s probably fine then. I’ll mess with it one notch and see if I notice anything. Heck, I’ve had it this long without changing it. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Bheezy27403_imp]

You may want to adjust the front too. The first time I The CB out for aggressive mountain riding I had to pull over and stiffen up the front to prevent the excessive dive. It's an easy adjustment and you may want to do it to match the pre-loaded rear.

 

[dave]

You will lose suspension travel with these adjustments but it will support your weight better.
[/QUOTE]
Ferret, are you suggesting that the springs will completely compress (coil lock) ?

 

[the Ferret]

no not all of the suspension travel will be lost just some

 

[jtopiso_imp]

no not all of the suspension travel will be lost just some

Not really.

You have a total suspension travel from FR to FB:
FR=Full rebouund
FB=Full bump

With a particular preload+weght on the bike, it may be something like this:
[FB----0------------FR]
where "0" is the equilibrium position.

If you increase preload, you'd get something like
[FB------------0----FR]

Ideally, you should aim to adjust your preload to the load on the bike, so you are always around:
[FB--------0--------FR]


Full bump happens at the damper (there is a bump stop), it's not due to the spring coils locking, so the travel remains the same. You only change where is your zero.

[FB----0------------FR]
[FB------------0----FR]
[FB--------0--------FR]


So, how do you know if you are in the sweet spot? The idea is that you have to go as soft as possible, so you don't get out of rebound travel, but as hard as necesary, so you dont hit on the bumpstop during normal bumps.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Nice text-based representation jtopiso.

 

[the Ferret]

jtopiso a couple years ago I did a thread with pictures which showed travel on each on the lines. Put a wire tire around the fork tube and with 5 lines showing held the front brake and bounced the front end. Then measured how far the wire tie went up the fork tube. Did it with all 5 lines. With each line on the suspension screwed in, the fork would travel less than the previous line.

I can't find the thread now but I will keep looking.

 

[jtopiso_imp]

jtopiso a couple years ago I did a thread with pictures which showed travel on each on the lines. Put a wire tire around the fork tube and with 5 lines showing held the front brake and bounced the front end. Then measured how far the wire tie went up the fork tube. Did it with all 5 lines. With each line on the suspension screwed in, the fork would travel less than the previous line.

I can't find the thread now but I will keep looking.

Yes, the travel would be less each time.
You are putting into the spring always the same load (weight+your "bounce moment"), but the spring preload is taking some of the weight: the more preload, the less the force available to displace the suspension.

So yes: more preload implies less travel for the same load. But total travel, from bump to reboound, will be the same.

 

[Ben70_imp]

jtopiso and Ferret, are you talking about the same thing? Ferret is referencing fork travel, I believe, and jtopiso rear shock travel. Ferret is talking damping and jtopiso travel as affected by preload. Or so it seems to me.

Ben

 

[zirconxi_imp]

Can I know what is the proper size hook wrench to get to adjust the rear suspension for 2013 model? Mine didn't come with the tools.

 

[jtopiso_imp]

jtopiso and Ferret, are you talking about the same thing? Ferret is referencing fork travel, I believe, and jtopiso rear shock travel. Ferret is talking damping and jtopiso travel as affected by preload. Or so it seems to me.

Ben

Rear "strut" (damper+spring) works the same as front fork (spring within an oil damper).

Damping can't be adjusted on the CB if kept OEM. On the front or the rear, you are only adjusting spring preload, with will determine where is the standing "zero" of your suspension.

 

[Cormanus]

Can I know what is the proper size hook wrench to get to adjust the rear suspension for 2013 model? Mine didn't come with the tools.

Honda doesn’t give a size. See https://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/hon/52f28c16f870021404ec5a54/tool. It’s part #7.

 

[Lord Popgun]

I bought an aftermarket one the dealer had for about $5US. A lot cheaper than the Honda one. Just go to any bike place and they should have them. They are mostly a standard size. Get them to show you one.

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Here is one starting point ...

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesal...cycle+rear+shock+spanner&switch_new_app=y