Rust on lower fork bracket

Lord Popgun_imp said:
Ferret,

I've been watching Wheeler Dealers car show on TV and am learning to speak Brit from that :)
Learning English from Mike Brewer is like learning child minding from Michael Jackson. :dodgy:
 
Cormanus_imp said:
Pterodactyl_imp said:
Ole_imp said:
Well, I'll be go to heck. I just read this thread, walked out into the garage, don't want to be a Debbie Downer but, my CB is showing some rust also.
I will email these pics to my dealer tomorrow. It is just the left side as you sit on the bike. The right side shows zero rust.

93a5d4ac023646d65a5efb5963a19d7c.jpg


f8ed536f9fcfe0323d33656d49adde95.jpg


I have rode in the rain some. But my bike has been in a 72 degree basement since Dec 1st. I will report back what dealer has to say,,,,,
For rust you need moisture. This can take the form of visible moisture, rain, dew, fog, tapwater (cleaning), or not visible, high humidity for example. My point re the cover was that they do tend to be humid inside. A humid atmosphere even in a 70deg closed shed or garage will give conditions conducive to rust. So Ole, do you have a hygrometer in your garage? If so what is typical winter humidity? If it's snowing it will most likely be cold but humid outdoors and even if your basement is heated it may still be humid.

The humidity in my garage (doesn't need to be heated in Sydney) varies from 20% to over 90% depending on the ambient. After cleaning I generally spray forks, oleos, linkages etc with a rubber friendly silicone spray. (As an aside, Cormanus, I don't use the high pressure cleaner directly on seals or areas where the electrics may be affected.)

My bike has been wet for periods of over a week (on a ride back from Adelaide last year it literally pissed down for five days straight and the ride to and fro the MotoGP this year was only slightly better). However my bike doesn't show the rust that I've seen in this thread. When I said, in a previous post, that there was some slight corrosion at the underside ends of the oil cooler pipes it has made me think that this is an area that I haven't been careful with.

Once again this rust thread has got me puzzled. I have had some trust in Honda as far as build quality goes so I would hate to think that I have just been lucky.

Cheers
Pterodactyl, what silicone spray do you use?

Pterodactyl_imp said:
Ole_imp said:
Well, I'll be go to heck. I just read this thread, walked out into the garage, don't want to be a Debbie Downer but, my CB is showing some rust also.
I will email these pics to my dealer tomorrow. It is just the left side as you sit on the bike. The right side shows zero rust.

93a5d4ac023646d65a5efb5963a19d7c.jpg


f8ed536f9fcfe0323d33656d49adde95.jpg


I have rode in the rain some. But my bike has been in a 72 degree basement since Dec 1st. I will report back what dealer has to say,,,,,
For rust you need moisture. This can take the form of visible moisture, rain, dew, fog, tapwater (cleaning), or not visible, high humidity for example. My point re the cover was that they do tend to be humid inside. A humid atmosphere even in a 70deg closed shed or garage will give conditions conducive to rust. So Ole, do you have a hygrometer in your garage? If so what is typical winter humidity? If it's snowing it will most likely be cold but humid outdoors and even if your basement is heated it may still be humid.

The humidity in my garage (doesn't need to be heated in Sydney) varies from 20% to over 90% depending on the ambient. After cleaning I generally spray forks, oleos, linkages etc with a rubber friendly silicone spray. (As an aside, Cormanus, I don't use the high pressure cleaner directly on seals or areas where the electrics may be affected.)

My bike has been wet for periods of over a week (on a ride back from Adelaide last year it literally pissed down for five days straight and the ride to and fro the MotoGP this year was only slightly better). However my bike doesn't show the rust that I've seen in this thread. When I said, in a previous post, that there was some slight corrosion at the underside ends of the oil cooler pipes it has made me think that this is an area that I haven't been careful with.

Once again this rust thread has got me puzzled. I have had some trust in Honda as far as build quality goes so I would hate to think that I have just been lucky.

Cheers
Thanks.

Humidity has to be a factor here. In the wet season it can be incredibly humid—in excess of 90%. I'm clearly going to have to rethink how I protect the bike when it's parked.
Cormanus ,

Don't use WD40 or any spray that is not suitable for use on rubber. For instance, I use INOX to prevent corrosion on kayak and fishing gear. Great stuff but can't use on rubber. I have been using a good grade silicone spray but even that is not suitable for prolonged use on rubber. Don't ask me what prolonged means, in this case it's one of those weasel words :)

However, all is not lost. On the cb1100forum.com :excited: there is a thread concerning aviation grade lubricants and water displacers. If no one jumps in I will get off my blot and use the search engine. These products should be available in Oz, after all, we can fly aeroplanes to (joke guys, please don't flame me). I am going to follow this up but, from memory, I think the distributor was QLD based so give me a hand* if you like.

Cheers.

*WARNING: there may be traces of corny jokes in this post.
 
303 Aerospace protectant. As kids say, its da bomb.
 
Lord Popgun_imp said:
I work on Navy aircraft (DOD civilian). Ok, I work on radar, but the mech in our office says that oleo struts work almost exactly like the forks on a motorcycle.
There is very little difference. The three oleo struts on my plane work just like upside down motorcycle forks (i.e. slider is on top). There's a provision for adding pressurized air for additional cushioning effect, which is present on some motorcycle forks (but bikes tend to use vastly lower air pressure).

By the way, after a year out here in the desert, where rain is rare and humidity is below 20% most of the time, not a spot of rust on my CB11. It sits an unheated / uncooled garage uncovered when it's not on the road (which is 3-4 days a week).
 
Tortuga_imp said:
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Ferret,

I've been watching Wheeler Dealers car show on TV and am learning to speak Brit from that :)
Learning English from Mike Brewer is like learning child minding from Michael Jackson. :dodgy:
Learning English from Mike Brewer is like learning child minding from Michael Jackson. :dodgy:
He He :P
 
Also at:
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ACF-50 kills the corrosion process with just one application and will last for 24 months. Microswitches, cannon plugs, and relays will remain corrosion free. Plus, ACF-50 will easily free seized nuts, screws and bolts. ACF-50 is qualified under Mil-C-81309E, and manufactured under ISO 9000 Certified Processes. ACF-50 holds written OEM approvals from: Gulfstream, Bombardier, ATR Regional Transport, Douglas/Boeing Helicopter, Bell/Textron, Robinson, Enstrom, Sikorsky, MD Helicopters, Schweitzer, Hiller, British Aerospace, Concorde Battery, Raytheon, Piper, Cessna, Pilatus, Beech, Van's, Extra, Air Tractor, Lake, Rolls-Royce, Britten-Norman, Learjet, McDonnell Douglas, and Canadair. Try ACF-50. You will truly be amazed at the results!
____________________________________________________________________

Wow, with all this Yankee ingenuity nothing, but nothing, can go wrong ;). The Rust Fairy is doomed.

Cormanus , check this out:
Google Drive: Sign-in

Cheers all.
 
OK, so I sent the pics to my dealer. Then called him a couple hours later. He agreed with me, it is not right. He called his Honda rep and the rep told him Honda will make it right with me. But the dealer needs to "put his eyes on the bike" before anything happens.

So I will drive it over there and let him do just that. I'll keep you all informed on what happens. :cool:
 
Pterodactyl and popgun, thank you very much indeed.

Waddaya know? There's a stockist a mere half an hour away. Sadly he might have to wait until next week as I've a heap to do today including getting some of that rust off the bike and getting myself back to Brisbane. Let's see.

Thanks again, guys.
Wouldn't it bloody rotate you! They don't have it and at least one dude there thinks they can't get it any more.

Grrrr. I'll concentrate on cleaning the bike today and get back to the longer term fix in due course.

BTW, one dude in a bike shop yesterday said Turtle Wax is as good as anything on chrome to stop the rust getting in.

Ole: good luck with your discussion with the dealer.
 
Cormanus,

The ACF-50 would be for the metal parts. The 303 is for the plastic stuff. I had 303 on the brain.
 
Thanks Popgun. I'll go a-hunting next week when I'm back home again. Seems like it's readily available in Australia.
 
Cormanus_imp said:
Thanks Popgun. I'll go a-hunting next week when I'm back home again. Seems like it's readily available in Australia.
It is. I have ordered both the 303 and the ACF50 from Oz distributors.

Cheers.
 
Tyke57nz_imp said:
Maybe have a look at this product as a possible alternative http://www.lanoguard.co.nz/testimonial5.html
G'day Tyke57nz,

Would give it a go, even if only to show the ANZAC spirit still lives on. I am not sure if Lanoguard is just starting, or in the process of leaving, Oz. Phones disconnected (in Syd) and local websites not responding. Lanoguard is not listed as a product at major retailers like Bunnings, BCF, AutoBarn or SuperCheap etc. The NZ online order site is not responding but the product is available from eBay but shipment is from the UK. Will have another look soon.

Thanks for the tip though as if it lives up to its claims it looks an ideal Rust Fairy slayer. :thanks:

Cheers
 
Pterodactyl_imp said:
Tyke57nz_imp said:
Maybe have a look at this product as a possible alternative http://www.lanoguard.co.nz/testimonial5.html
G'day Tyke57nz,

Would give it a go, even if only to show the ANZAC spirit still lives on. I am not sure if Lanoguard is just starting, or in the process of leaving, Oz. Phones disconnected (in Syd) and local websites not responding. Lanoguard is not listed as a product at major retailers like Bunnings, BCF, AutoBarn or SuperCheap etc. The NZ online order site is not responding but the product is available from eBay but shipment is from the UK. Will have another look soon.

Thanks for the tip though as if it lives up to its claims it looks an ideal Rust Fairy slayer. :thanks:

Cheers
G'day Tyke57nz,

Would give it a go, even if only to show the ANZAC spirit still lives on. I am not sure if Lanoguard is just starting, or in the process of leaving, Oz. Phones disconnected (in Syd) and local websites not responding. Lanoguard is not listed as a product at major retailers like Bunnings, BCF, AutoBarn or SuperCheap etc. The NZ online order site is not responding but the product is available from eBay but shipment is from the UK. Will have another look soon.

Thanks for the tip though as if it lives up to its claims it looks an ideal Rust Fairy slayer. :thanks:

Cheers G`day Pterodactyl, CRC make a product quite similar available in Aussie - http://www.crcindustries.com.au/lanoshield-corrosion-inhibitor. On the link I sent you have to type in Lanoshield and it takes you to the product - 3150 appears to be the CRC Part Number. We can buy it here at a variety of stores but Super Cheap Auto is my nearest.Rang the Lanoguard Cellphone and have left a message for contact details. I have used the product on my Land Rovers for a number of years and it appears to be the ducks nuts so far.
 
Tyke57nz_imp said:
Pterodactyl_imp said:
Tyke57nz_imp said:
Maybe have a look at this product as a possible alternative http://www.lanoguard.co.nz/testimonial5.html
G'day Tyke57nz,

Would give it a go, even if only to show the ANZAC spirit still lives on. I am not sure if Lanoguard is just starting, or in the process of leaving, Oz. Phones disconnected (in Syd) and local websites not responding. Lanoguard is not listed as a product at major retailers like Bunnings, BCF, AutoBarn or SuperCheap etc. The NZ online order site is not responding but the product is available from eBay but shipment is from the UK. Will have another look soon.

Thanks for the tip though as if it lives up to its claims it looks an ideal Rust Fairy slayer. :thanks:

Cheers
G'day Tyke57nz,

Would give it a go, even if only to show the ANZAC spirit still lives on. I am not sure if Lanoguard is just starting, or in the process of leaving, Oz. Phones disconnected (in Syd) and local websites not responding. Lanoguard is not listed as a product at major retailers like Bunnings, BCF, AutoBarn or SuperCheap etc. The NZ online order site is not responding but the product is available from eBay but shipment is from the UK. Will have another look soon.

Thanks for the tip though as if it lives up to its claims it looks an ideal Rust Fairy slayer. :thanks:

Cheers G`day Pterodactyl, CRC make a product quite similar available in Aussie - http://www.crcindustries.com.au/lanoshield-corrosion-inhibitor. On the link I sent you have to type in Lanoshield and it takes you to the product - 3150 appears to be the CRC Part Number. We can buy it here at a variety of stores but Super Cheap Auto is my nearest.Rang the Lanoguard Cellphone and have left a message for contact details. I have used the product on my Land Rovers for a number of years and it appears to be the ducks nuts so far.
Thanks mate, will follow up.

Cheers
 
Dakota_imp said:

Chrome plating is not very thick and will not live up to rock impingement forever. You could consider rubberized undercoating.
Hi Dakota

My bike which has never been in the rain anf the underside of my guards looked similar to your photos. If not slightly worse. The rest of the bike is fine so far.

This bike is a 2011 model, meticulously cleaned, never ridden in the rain and always garaged.

We dont have salted roads here in Australia so that is not an issue.

I have just cleaned and repaired the guards using some products that I have used very successfully on boat trailers with steel parts used in salt water.

I used a rust converter that I bought from a Marine supplier called Fertran. After cleaning of dirt and loose rust you simply paint it on. It is water clean up.
The rusted parts turn black and form a protective coating after reacting with the iron oxide(rust) after a few hours. It was amazing to see how many parts of the guard actually turned black. That chrome is not thick at all and virtually transparent in patches.

After the Fertan has done its job overnight you can over paint the surface. I have used a Rust protection paint from PPG called Rust Guard. It is an epoxy paint.

I will look for a more durable coating to apply over that in the areas that are likely to get stone chips.

If you catch the rust early and seal off the air and moisture this should be a long term fix. One of my boat trailers had some no galvanised parts and this treatment survived a few years of dipping in the ocean.

Whilst Honda should properly apply automotive quality plating to the guards, that will take some lobbying. In the meantime if I lived in your salt road environment a coat of Cold Galvanising paint with a protective top coat would be my first job from new.

Chrome guards have always been a problem on Jap bikes. These new CBs look to have even thinner chrome than my CBs from the 70's. One of which (1977 CB750K7) I only sold 6 months ago with the original guards still shiny and intact.
 
Read the whole post and looked at all pics ! 2013 & 2014 bikes should not have no rust at all even if you get caught in the rain a few times. These bikes are brand new and should look that way. Yes pledge works good but the chrome fenders and triple trees should not rust on any bike or car less than one year old !! Honda is known for great bikes and factory honda should replace every single rusted part. What will that fender look like in 5 years. ? JMO
Michael


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ridem32_imp said:
Read the whole post and looked at all pics ! 2013 & 2014 bikes should not have no rust at all even if you get caught in the rain a few times. These bikes are brand new and should look that way. Yes pledge works good but the chrome fenders and triple trees should not rust on any bike or car less than one year old !! Honda is known for great bikes and factory honda should replace every single rusted part. What will that fender look like in 5 years. ? JMO
Michael


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Today's proud owners of shiny chrome dripping retros are tomorrow's rat-bike builders it seems.

A CB1100' yesterday.
 
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