Rev Limit at 5,500 RPM

[wanobiben_imp]

Hey guys! So I recently changed out my speedometer for a digital one. I should have everything hooked up properly as it all reads out okay on the new meter. The weird thing is that since I changed the meter my rev limiter is hitting too soon. It now redlines at about 5,500rpm now no matter what gear it's in. Is there an easy fix to this or am I going to have to take it to a shop to have the ECU reset or something? Thanks in advanced!

 

[mvk24_imp]

If I had to guess I'd say that is what the redline on the new tachometer is programmed to be at. Is there a manual that will show you how to program it to a higher redline on the tach?

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

 

[wanobiben_imp]

If I had to guess I'd say that is what the redline on the new tachometer is programmed to be at. Is there a manual that will show you how to program it to a higher redline on the tach?

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

Unfortunately it was a really cheap digital meter and it came with minimal settings. I cannot figure out what file type is accepted on this forum to post an image either. The meter comes with instructions on how to change the number of signals, tire circumference, fuel gauge (2 line or 3 line), and number of cylinders on the engine.

 

[mvk24_imp]

Download the tapatalk app its free and you csn easily upload photos to the forum through it.

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

 

[wanobiben_imp]

Here are the instructions it came with

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mvk24_imp]

Here are the instructions it came with

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I had to guess I'd say the redline is not programmed properly in the new tach. Make sure you input the correct tire size and such and see if it makes a difference. It might actually be the CBs redline as measured at the motor but the tach is telling you 5500 when its actually 8k or w.e the stock redline is because the tire size is not correct

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

 

[wanobiben_imp]

I have all of the settings as accurate as possible. I’ll probably have to end up buying a new meter. Would you happen to have any suggestions on a small digital meter that shows everything the original does (Speed, tach, fuel, gear, etc.)? The reason I changed it from the stock meter is so it could have a really low profile.

 

[mvk24_imp]

I have all of the settings as accurate as possible. I’ll probably have to end up buying a new meter. Would you happen to have any suggestions on a small digital meter that shows everything the original does (Speed, tach, fuel, gear, etc.)? The reason I changed it from the stock meter is so it could have a really low profile.

I dont have any experience with those i prefer analog meters myself. Im sure revzilla has some reviews on them though

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

 

[j3gq_imp]

Two questions come to my mind,
why did you change the gauge ?
when you say speedometer, you’re referring to the rpm gauge, right ?
or did you replace both “clocks” ?

 

[Gone in 60]

I used to work for a company that made digital instrumentation, but nothing that would be practical for a street motorcycle. I get that it wants to know the number of cylinders so that it can take the ignition pulse signal, and correctly parse it out to determine an accurate RPM.

The tire rollout measurement would allow it to take the wheel speed sensor pulses to determine accurate vehicle speed.

Are you getting an accurate RPM? Doesn’t look like an obvious function for setting the redline based on what the RPM reading is. Can you find a YouTube video for that model of display to see how it is programmed? A generic programmable digital dash that isn’t specific to a particular engine usually takes the ignition signal and displays RPM, but allows the user to determine the redline as it doesn’t know what particular engine it’s getting the signal from.

If you aren’t too hampered by budget, you might take a look at what AIM has for your application.

 

[mvk24_imp]

Hey guys, OP posted in the reddit cb page also so I'm posting the photos he had trouble posting here.

This is the Gauge computer he got from ebay and this is his bike with the low profile gauges installed now. Maybe the image of the computer will help the diagnosis.

I'm with Gone thinking that the gauge doesn't know what bike it's on so it is displaying the wrong RPM on the screen but I think the bike is behaving normally and the gauge is calibrated wrong and telling him he's at 5500rpm when he's really at the 8k redline.

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca
(I'm copy and pasting what I sent to OP on reddit because it may help the same issue for other members in the future)

Hey he sais in this video that when he was selecting how many cylinders the bike has in the programming it showed he was idling at like 5k.

Def seems like its a programming issue so far but im gonna watch a second video on programming the Chinese clusters

video on programming these Chinese clusters.

Looks like your factor and cylinder settings are what really effect the RPMs and idle reading. This video seems to go more in depth on the programming and settings that that photo you sent of the manual it came with.

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

 

[Gone in 60]

Great find mvk! Based on the fixed graphics on the dash, looks like the redline may not be adjustable or programmable.

The issue is likely a misinterpretation of the RPM signal by the dash. Are you getting a reasonably accurate RPM reading?

 

[Gone in 60]

Yeah, that was a common issue for the tech line where I used to work.

Have to say, the graphics on that little dash are pretty nice. I wonder if it's readable in full sunlight.

 

[wanobiben_imp]

Great find mvk! Based on the fixed graphics on the dash, looks like the redline may not be adjustable or programmable.

The issue is likely a misinterpretation of the RPM signal by the dash. Are you getting a reasonably accurate RPM reading?

I'm terrible at using this forum. The display on this meter is really clear and bright. I'm really impressed with the display. When I set it to 2 cylinders it seems to be the most accurate in it's rpm reading. It reads that it's idling around 1,000 rpm and it's rev seems accurate. The problem is that it redlines around 5,500 rpm. I rode the bike for a year before I changed out the meter so it feels like it's actually at 5,500 rpm, it's just acting like that's its new limit now.

I've read somewhere else on this forum that the bike ECU will limit the rpms in say 6th gear at about 5,500 rpm, and that using aftermarket meters could be giving the ECU a false gear reading making the ECU think it's always in 6th gear.

 

[Gone in 60]

The only way you’ll get true RPM is to take a signal from a sensor that’s independent of the ECU. If you’re using the ECU’s output for RPM, it’s telling your dash what it would have been telling the stock tach, which could be a proprietary signal to Honda, or compensated for the factory tach, etc.

That might be the cause of a wonky reading.

Super long shot, but there might be someone out there who makes a Honda interface that takes the ECU data and turns it into a generic signal that your dash will read.

 

[mvk24_imp]

wow. thats weird, but i could see that as well. the ecm feedback through the gauges ive head about on this bike is a huge pain in the ass, i swear. can you pick up the signal from a different source? on one of my other bikes i picked it up from an alternator lead, (ac) and had to set it to like 12 cyl or something ridiculous. But it worked very well, was an SPA technique unit.

If its #12 you may be thinking of the "Factor" or "signal" setting. That setting usually ranges from 1-12.

2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca

 

[Gone in 60]

Alternate pickups can be inductive off of a spark plug wire, negative terminal on an ignition coil, pulse from a fuel injector lead...

 

[wanobiben_imp]

I don’t think the tach reading is an issue. It seems to be reading accurately. That said, I’m only basing this off of how I rode the bike before I changed out the meter. I never had an issue with hitting a rev limit before so I only assume that the tach is accurate and that something is wrong with the ECU or the new meter in causing the engine to hit the rev limit earlier than originally designed.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Just so you know, the bike has a bidirectional serial data line between the ECU and the Combination Meter. (2010-13 bikes do not have this)

The meter sends to the ECU: Rear wheel speed sensor signal

The ECU sends to the meter: High oil temperature indicator signal, Engine speed signal, MIL signal, Fuel pulse signal.

 

[mvk24_imp]

I don’t think the tach reading is an issue. It seems to be reading accurately. That said, I’m only basing this off of how I rode the bike before I changed out the meter. I never had an issue with hitting a rev limit before so I only assume that the tach is accurate and that something is wrong with the ECU or the new meter in causing the engine to hit the rev limit earlier than originally designed.

Etwee. That and pop guns info I'm thinning you have to wire up the original cluster and see if its still happening before you czn really troubleshoot any further


2014 CB1100, 1981 KZ440 LTD, 1993 Yamaha XJ600 Seca, 1994 Yamaha XJ600 Seca