Rear Wheel Bearings

[jdvalero_imp]

Hello Lads!!!
Looking for non OEM stuff (since its 90$ for OEM) but cannot find any reference on them if I google them.

How many of you have changed your rear wheel bearings and at how many miles?

Do you have a link to online supplier?


Thanka mucho!

JD

 

[Lord Popgun]

What year bike do you have? Partsfish shows the '14 bearings for less then $20 bucks each. Or am I missing something?

 

[jdvalero_imp]

What year bike do you have? Partsfish shows the '14 bearings for less then $20 bucks each. Or am I missing something?

Are you refering to just one bearing or all 3 plus 2 dust cap seals?
Can you send me a link please?
2014 standard
Thanka mucho!

Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk
On part fish you need parts 20 21 22 23 and 24. A bit cheaper that babbits but still comes close to 80$ with shipping added. All of those parts should be close to 20-25$ if not OEM. I think all bearings come from same manufacturers that is why i wanted to look for non-OEM

Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk

 

[the Ferret]

Im still on original bearingx at 48,000 miles.

 

[jdvalero_imp]

Im still on original bearingx at 48,000 miles.

Awesome!

I think I have one going bad one of the ones on the sprocket side. probably my fault tightening the chain to much. Won't know until I take them apart thus why I was looking for other options other than OEM.

 

[max]

JD there is no gain in replacing them as a set, i replaced one on my cb919, the one on the brake side, it had water in it because it sits on an angle and when it rains it got in.
I just replaced that one, it was very obvious, when you rotate it, it felt gritty as if there was sand inside and had some play and was black and rusty inside, the water had mixed with the grease.

These roller bearings have a bit of axial movement built-in and if the bearing feels smooth it's fine, you are likely to do more harm by replacing a perfectly good bearing with another one but no harm in carefully removing the rubber side cover with a sharp pick ( practice on the old one ) to pack a bit more grease to the races, these bearings move relatively slowly for a bearing and can last 200.000 km no problem.

The bearings have a number on the side like"2604" that represent their sizes and sidecovers.

 

[Randy B]

What year bike do you have? Partsfish shows the '14 bearings for less then $20 bucks each. Or am I missing something?

Are you refering to just one bearing or all 3 plus 2 dust cap seals?
Can you send me a link please?
2014 standard
Thanka mucho!

Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk
On part fish you need parts 20 21 22 23 and 24. A bit cheaper that babbits but still comes close to 80$ with shipping added. All of those parts should be close to 20-25$ if not OEM. I think all bearings come from same manufacturers that is why i wanted to look for non-OEM

Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk

Are you refering to just one bearing or all 3 plus 2 dust cap seals?
Can you send me a link please?
2014 standard
Thanka mucho!

Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk
On part fish you need parts 20 21 22 23 and 24. A bit cheaper that babbits but still comes close to 80$ with shipping added. All of those parts should be close to 20-25$ if not OEM. I think all bearings come from same manufacturers that is why i wanted to look for non-OEM

Sent from my LM-Q710(FGN) using Tapatalk
So there are multiple bearings in there. In the wheel and in the FLANGE SUB-ASSY. I agree that you most likely don't need to replace anything that's not bad, but do a good inspection on each bearing to determine which of them is in need of replacement.

 

[jdvalero_imp]

First all I do not agree with replacing just one bearing and leaving the old ones in..."My" Belief is that all should be replaced at once even if only one failed. Even motorcycle mechanics that I have spoken with agree that if one failed maybe the other one will too shortly after...the parts are relatively cheap to do them all at once and also will give you peace of mind. That's just me.
Secondly, The problem I had did not involve the bearings(Thank God!) but it was a chain alignment issue I had. Discovered when I took both wheels to make sure everything was up to par. My screw up!

But.... Thank y'all! Love ya ! mean it!!!

 

[GoldOxide_imp]

Sounds good JD. We'll take the love, 'cause w'all can always use it.

 

[Houtman_imp]

replacing just one bearing in a wheel is like buying just one shoe because it i wore more than the other shoe.

 

[peterbaron]

replacing just one bearing in a wheel is like buying just one shoe because it i wore more than the other shoe.

Did you realize that L shoe definitely differs from R one..., I always buy a pair instead of two

 

[Houtman_imp]

Do you mean that a L iberal shoe is different than a R epublican shoe ?

 

[peterbaron]

U read my mind...lol...
+ LR will talk to you soon..

 

[Rocky_imp]

all kidding aside, and to each his own of course, but I think it's false economy to not fit two new bearings while you're at it.

 

[pekingduck]

Not sure how your bearing(s) failed - rare occurrence if they did. Japanese manufactured bikes run Japanese-made bearings, generally regarded better than non-OEM lower-quality bearings (China, India, or? ).

Not only are there different material quality, there are different running clearances and tolerances too. Cheap bearings may be fine for wheelbarrows or garden carts. Be sure to pack it with grease since they are skimpy any way they can be, especially if it has seals or shields on both sides - I've seen new ones that were dry inside.

If your bearings are fine, I wouldn't replace them. A new part is an untested part. Also you would likely have a hard time finding the right bearing shield/seals except from the OEM.

 

[jdvalero_imp]

Rocky on post number nine of this thread I did mention that the bearing was not the problem but a misalignment on the rear wheel and chain.

 

[Rocky_imp]

Rocky on post number nine of this thread I did mention that the bearing was not the problem but a misalignment on the rear wheel and chain.

Thanks for the alert