Rear brakes... what I did wrong and where to go now?

Inhouse Bob

Inhouse Bob

Road warrior
Thread starter
Hi Gang,
I replaced all my brake pads a good while back (more than a year) and at some point I noticed that the rear brakes just didn't feel like they were doing the job as they once did. Of course, I ignored that feeling :angel:
So, I got the safety inspection done yesterday and was shown that one pad on the back was very worn while the other is much less so. And I can feel that the side of the disk where the wear is is more worn. (And that is a sentence for the ages.)
I want to get in there and fix things properly but am feeling a bit intimidated at this point. I expect that one of the pins is binding but I'm not sure. And I need to order parts but am not sure what to order so that I have everything on hand the first time.
I have the service manual (though it got flooded and looks pathetic :s) so that is helpful, but if anyone can give me suggestions of what parts could possibly be needed and a good source for OEM bits, I'd appreciate the help.
I wish I lived near Razor :worship:
:thanks:
Bob
 
Bob , could you just take the rear brake apart and clean all the parts; than you can see if some are worn/rusty and perhaps order new parts if needed. We should all live near Razor ( perhaps down the road we can all live in the same retirement facility.)

PS : did you spill your beer again ?
 
Bob i'm not the best to explain here, although i always get the job done i find if a bit fiddly to do so.
There are two sliding bushings that should have enough ( silicone preferably but anything will work here ) grease under the dust seals to enable the caliper housing to freely slide and find the best position on the rear brake disk ( yellow dot ).

Before you begin check that the caliper feels slightly loose to move with all bolts tight.



They normally wear about the same on both brake pads unless they are prevented to slide sideways and adjust freely.
The rear ( sliding ) bolt ( 12mm socket ) has to be loosened to lift the caliper enough to replace the pads.
Also make sure the slot in the caliper frame which pivots around the axle is located correctly over the square piece on the swingarm which stops the caliper rotating in either direction with the rear brake applied.

The ( 8mm socket ) pin can then be unscrewed and the pads replaced, this is the fiddly bit to get the new pads to seat both resting on their supports against the spring tension before replacing the pin and the bolt.

It is possible to install the pads not resting on their intended supports and yet looking ok, that may have happened in your case, have a look if they have worn correctly.

Likely more advice is coming your way but that's my bit of advice for you.
 
Thread starter
max_imp said:
Bob i'm not the best to explain here, although i always get the job done i find if a bit fiddly to do so.
There are two sliding bushings that should have enough ( silicone preferably but anything will work here ) grease under the dust seals to enable the caliper housing to freely slide and find the best position on the rear brake disk ( yellow dot ).

Before you begin check that the caliper feels slightly loose to move with all bolts tight.



They normally wear about the same on both brake pads unless they are prevented to slide sideways and adjust freely.
The rear ( sliding ) bolt ( 12mm socket ) has to be loosened to lift the caliper enough to replace the pads.
Also make sure the slot in the caliper frame which pivots around the axle is located correctly over the square piece on the swingarm which stops the caliper rotating in either direction with the rear brake applied.

The ( 8mm socket ) pin can then be unscrewed and the pads replaced, this is the fiddly bit to get the new pads to seat both resting on their supports against the spring tension before replacing the pin and the bolt.

It is possible to install the pads not resting on their intended supports and yet looking ok, that may have happened in your case, have a look if they have worn correctly.

Likely more advice is coming your way but that's my bit of advice for you.
Click to expand...
Hi again,
Thanks MAX. I finally dove into this after waiting a good while for parts delivery. You got me 85% there.
I am having much trouble, mostly because I don't have three hands and a prehensile tail.
Three things...
1) I bought a new pin because the old one is a bit worn looking and it only cost $4.95. But the new one (it is Honda brand) doesn't have the little white O ring near the end like the old one does. That ring doesn't look to be removable from the old pin. I looked on line and the old pin stock number has been replaced by a new one so maybe they decided the little O ring isn't required??
2) I also bought a new caliper pin(it was cheap, too) but I can't see any way to remove the old one. The original still seems to move freely so I guess I will leave that alone. Thoughts on that plan?
3) How on Earth do these pads connect to the caliper body? I just can't get anything to "hook" under there. Maybe this is where a third hand would come in handy? I feel like I get one in some sort of proper place but can't get both. When I feel like I have it, the pads both fall loose again, so I don't think I'm getting it. I certainly am not confident in what it is doing so far.
I have the manual but it is very vague as to how this all works. "Put the pads in, bolt it down." Not a big help :dodgy:
Grrrrr. Any help would be awesome.
Thanks!
 
Thread starter
Not to jump in on Max’s help, but on almost anything that pin is just cleaned up well and re-used.
 
Thread starter
Houtman_imp said:
Bob , could you just take the rear brake apart and clean all the parts; than you can see if some are worn/rusty and perhaps order new parts if needed. We should all live near Razor ( perhaps down the road we can all live in the same retirement facility.)

PS : did you spill your beer again ?
Click to expand...
No beer spilled yet, Meneer Houtman, but I am about to open a couple. It's been a frustrating hour :s
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Not to jump in on Max’s help, but on almost anything that pin is just cleaned up well and re-used.
Click to expand...
Cool. That saves me some time and I will just set aside the new pin for a later date :-)
Now, how about those pads?? You are only about five hours down coast. Perhaps if you have nothing better to do, you could ride on up and hold my hand? :thumbsup:
 
If it’s outside of a 250 mile circle I have to get permission from the High Command :) Yeah I work for the military and Covid is a worry. Even civilians fall under .mil rules in some cases.

Brakes aren’t usually hard. I haven’t done the CB brakes yet, but they can’t be much different that any other. That 3rd hand and prehensile tail might be nice, especially when putting the rear wheel back on.
 
Thread starter
I didn't have to take the wheel off, so I got that going for me which is nice.
I was joking about the ride up, though I'll be happy to meet you halfway for a lunch sometime.
My daughter has one more chemo treatment so we are being super careful because her white blood cell counts are way low. Scary times times two. But all will be better one day. :thumbsup:
 
Bob, that pub with the white grommet thing on the end needs a special grease as I recall.

The pads are tricky to get in. I can't check as I'm away from home, but they kinda have to hang off something at the front and it can be tricky to get them to stay there as you lower the housing. Hence the need for the prehensile tail. I guess.
 
Bob here are some pictures to explain how to get the new pads in;

This part of the pad rests on the support ledge from the caliper carrier ( no 9 in Popgun's link is a stainless clip that lets the pads slide easy as they wear over time ) ;


The rear 12mm.bolt needs to be removed to access the pads and the caliper lifted forward some,
the forward hex bolt stays in place;


Rest the new pad closest to the piston onto the support ledge, push it upward against the spring ( no7 in the fiche picture in Popgun's link )
and put the pin through it to hold it in place.
then put the other pad in place on it's support ledge and push it upward against the spring;


Push the pin through it and start it a few turns to keep it in it's place;



Should look like this;


see next post for next steps but sofar this took 5 minutes.
Check that the bushing for the 12mm. bolt can move freely to allow for sideways movement as the pads wear down.
Tilt the caliper down in place for the 12mm. bolt to go back in it's place;


When all is back into place make sure the groove in the alu part that holds the caliper ( caliper carrier ) is securely around the flat piece that is on the singarm;


When finished the caliper should look like this from the side;


So the hard part is to get the pads to sit on their support ledge before tilting them upward against the spring that prevents them from rattling and keep them there i.e. put the pin in one pad at the time, just go over the post several times so you get the idea.

See how you go there and don't forget to test the brales for correct operation before going for a test drive, the pads need to be close to the disk!
 
Nice pics and explanation Max!
 
Bob , I willingly hold your hand but our wife's might get the wrong idea !
Secondly : it might be time to buy a new bike when the rear brakes are worn out.
 
Thread starter
Thanks so much Max. It's that mysterious "ledge" that I am having trouble accessing, but I think you have given me what I need. Plus, I've looked up some new curse words on the interwebs, just in case I need them.

Cormanus, I've got the grease!

Houtman, your lovely wife is a nurse... she's seen it all. And I agree about the new bike theory of brake repair :banana::banana:

Now, off to slay this dragon!!

Edit/Update: It took less than 45 seconds to get everything installed and aligned using MAX's photo tutorial. It's all about doing things in the proper order. Brilliant, MAX; thanks!
And thanks to everyone else that contributed. I feel like a frickin' household hero! Now, off to clean the dryer's lint trap. Woot!
 
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