Rear brake drag

[NightRider_imp]

When I turn my rear wheel by hand I have to grip the tire and turn with some effort and there is a slight sound of both pads in contact with the disk. How do I know the drag is ok or what too much drag is outside of knowing there is something wrong should it be very hard to turn the wheel?

Or, can a few of you try it with your bikes and let me know if it spins very easy or if there is some slight drag?

Thanks.

 

[kmoney_imp]

Pretty much all disk brakes will have drag, as there is nothing but a deliberate (very small) warp in the rotor to actually push the piston/pad back to the released position. Your front will have drag as well if you manage to check it with the front wheel off the ground.

I don't have an actual torque spec for drag, but it should be minimal -- like a little flick spin should make it spin for about a foot. If you push it and it stops immediately, that's too tight. The back wheel will be tighter, as you're moving the chain, front sprocket, and essentially half the gearbox as well.

 

[NightRider_imp]

Thanks for the quick reply. I can flick it and it will move about a foot. I'll keep checking it from time to time. Since I have your attention, may I ask another related question. Do your rear pads have wear indicators, like a slot in the center of them that is visible should the pads still be ok?

Thanks again. - Art

 

[kmoney_imp]

I've honestly never looked at my rear pads, but there are a couple people on here who have done several pad changes.

I've never seen a motorcycle pad with a "squeeler" so it's probably going to be either a slot or just visual inspection (the shop manual should state minimum pad thickeness).

 

[NightRider_imp]

Thanks again.- Art

 

[Pterodactyl_imp]

Thanks for the quick reply. I can flick it and it will move about a foot. I'll keep checking it from time to time. Since I have your attention, may I ask another related question. Do your rear pads have wear indicators, like a slot in the center of them that is visible should the pads still be ok?

Thanks again. - Art

Art, wear indicators are brand dependant. The pads my bike came fitted with had wear indicators, the two sets I've fitted since don't. I change the pads when thickness is approaching 2mm.

Cheers

I've honestly never looked at my rear pads, but there are a couple people on here who have done several pad changes.

I've never seen a motorcycle pad with a "squeeler" so it's probably going to be either a slot or just visual inspection (the shop manual should state minimum pad thickeness).

I read Kmoney's thread and thought to myself, "Why do I change the pads when thickness approaches 2 mm?" I dunno, just do. So I checked my '13 model workshop manual and could not find a reference to minimum pad thickness. Just, "Replace the brake pads if either pad is worn to the wear indicator". I guees that 2mm seems to me to be about time for a change.

Cheers

 

[the Ferret]

Edited*** with updated info and pictures

On the CB it's really easy to see how much rear pad you have left

in this pic the gold color is the backing plate and the gray color with red arrow pointing to it, is the brake pad. (note how pad is lightly against brake rotor..this is normal). When new the brake pad is approx. 3/16" thick. When the brake pad gets within 1/16" or a little less of the backing plate it's time to replace (1/16" would be approx 1.5mm)



Here is a new CB1100 rear brake pad for my 14 dlx

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/CB%20brake%20pads%20003_zpsiv9cum75.jpg.html]

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/CB%20brake%20pads%20004_zpsmwqby9kq.jpg.html]

Pad measures slightly less than 3/16" thick when new

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/CB%20brake%20pads%20007_zpsrzmizb7k.jpg.html]


Just replaced all the pads on my ST 1300 and I took them down a little far lol. Don't take yours down this far. Much further and I could have damaged my rotors. Knew they were due but kept putting it off. When I did get around to it, it was almost too late. I got lucky.

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/January%202016%20068_zps6ahnw0ng.jpg.html]

 

[Elipten_imp]

Yikes that was close!


2014 CB1100 DLX
2013 CB1100 Std
1990 BMW K75 RT

 

[Toddman_imp]

A lot of that drag is the chain and sprockets. Take the chain off and see how it spins.

 

[the Ferret]

BTW here is a set of front pads for my 14 dlx



Notice the slots in the pads. This is your normal wear indicator. When it gets to the bottom of the slot, it's time to replace

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/CB%20brake%20pads%20front%20002_zpscnwqepce.jpg.html]

These measure slightly less than 3/16" thick when new, and the slot clearly shows that when it gets down to 1/16" it's time to replace

[url=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/theferret111/media/CB%20brake%20pads%20front%20003_zpsmaozmesy.jpg.html]

*Note I really thought the front and rear pads were thicker than this. It was a revelation to me to actually measure this new set of pads. These pads must really be tough hauling down a 570 pound motorcycle and 200 pound rider for 20,000 miles before needing replacement.

 

[White Dog_imp]

Referring to the first pic in post #7, and being that I was told "You are riding the rear brake pedal" I keep a close watch on the rear disc and caliper mounting arm and continuously measure the gap between. .050" is a good measurement on my cycle. If I see less, I know I am unnecessarily adding heat to the rear disc. The end result will be a cupping of the rotor toward the caliper arm. Someone mentioned that Honda is really "proud" of those rear disc rotors to the tune of $300+.

 

[NightRider_imp]

Our boot is always pressing down on the rear brake pedal I noticed. Honda has built in some play to allow for that.