MY dyno

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I was a medic and EMT in the army.

That cross is off of my humvee ambulance. Although my primary transport was an armored personnel carrier.


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New ramps, and tires / wheels arrived.

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It’s looking fantastic, Dubs. Well done.
 
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Speaking of data- the software is extremely adjustable about what you want to see- how and where you want to see it.

Dial, bar, digital, resize, drag around, relabel, change limits, etc.

Can set variables- example I have the actual af to display with green / yellow / red zones.

So I just spent a bit this evening deciding how I want it. Subject to change… but this should be a good start-

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Bike is loaded and ready to go- just need a fan to blow on it.

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So ... I know nothing about Dynojets. How does it data? Obviously some information comes from the rotation of the rear wheel, but do you plug it into the ECU as well to get data from there? If not, how?
 
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It spins a heavy roller of a known weight so it can calculate the power from that force / time.

Normally most shops stick a ‘sniffer’ in the tailpipe to measure air fuel ratio, and another sensor clamp over a spark plug wire to get the RPM.

For anyone with a power commander installed- you can plug the dyno into it and get your RPM direct from the bikes ecu/can bus… which is much better than the clamps which are always fussy.

And if you have the Dynojet auto tune box like I do- you can also ‘see/use’ it’s wide band o2 data for your air fuel curve instead of the tailpipe sniffer.

Should be more accurate for both readings this way- it’s the same exact data the bike is running.

And if you look at the screenshot, I’ve chosen to look at the injector duty cycle for each cylinder to see how close I am to maxing them out since I am making 25% more power than stock so far. I’ve never bothered to look up their flow rate- so someone (max / popgun?) might already have an idea of what they can support.

Im viewing, and tuning, cyl 1-2 separate from 3-4.

Also keeping an eye on engine temp so I can try to be consistent.

You can pick all sorts of stuff to show- throttle position, what gear, manifold absolute pressure.

Once I get done playing with some stuff- different plugs, different air filters, air box stuff- I’ll follow Mark’s lead and tune each gear independently as well.


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Max might know, but I do not know the injector flow rate.
 
Thanks for that description Dubs. Appreciated.
 
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Fan ordered. Will be here Friday.


Many dyno shops just use something like this-

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They are cheap, small, and easy to move around.

Problem is they don't move much air, cheap ones can be 600 cfm or less like this one-

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...for-Water-Damage-Restoration-AM2265/301703580


The 'better' ones are usually in the 2,xxx CFM range- and their output is directed into a small area. That's fine for modern liquid cooled bikes with a water pump, radiator and it's own fans I suppose...but I'd rather be safe than sorry.


With our bike having a wider area of air cooled cylinders, oil heat exchanger, and airflow required through the head to cool the plugs & combustion chamber- I want something that covers more area- and more CFM.


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I was looking at the 'smaller' options at Industrial HVLS Ceiling Fans | Evaporative Coolers | Wall-mount and Floor Fans - Big Ass Fans as I want something built well, with a decent sized motor that moves more amount of air in a wider area than an air mover.


But I also looked around to see what else is out there. There are a ton of fan options under various search terms- shop fan, box fan, barrel fan, industrial fan.

Many of them claim decent CFM but if you read the reviews people say they are disappointing. Not surprising when you look at the specs and see many have 1/3 hp, if not less.

The 'good' stuff is expensive- and I'd rather spend my cash on tangible items when just wanting to 'move air' so I looked on Ebay, looked on Craig's list, looked on Facebook marketplace.

Then I remembered to check Amazon 'warehouse'. I have had great luck buying 'used like new' on many things there and often it is just a damaged outer box torn and taped over.

So I found this-

https://www.pattersonfan.com/26-hv-fan.html

1hp, 7650 CFM 26 inch blades

On Zoro it is $1624.09 for the fan +$87 for the mounting yoke + $150 shipping + tax so the total would be just under $2,000

https://www.zoro.com/patterson-high...lating-115220vac-7650-cfm-h26a-cs/i/G6073566/


My cost from Amazon warehouse shipped was $261.80 total.

No brainer. I could buy bigger / more powerful- but not for anywhere near this price. If I ever want to get rid of it- I'm sure I can sell it for at / near what I paid for it.
 
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Fan for dyno arrived.

Rim is bent from shipping.

They refunded the cost- said I can keep the fan or throw it out. Beer for scale.
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Good decision about this big a 26" fan = all visited dyno-shop have it!
The smaller one is a premium option of a hair dryer...
:thumbsup:
 
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Yea- I’ll take free for a little time and a dead blow hammer.

Look at the date stamps on these photos-

Literally 2 minutes apart.

Sure there was more than one bend… but that one one of the worst.

It’s not a car wheel- it’s a fan. This is all cosmetic anyway- not functional.

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wow apparently car drivers weren't happy about that rule judging from the bullet holes.
 
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