My anti lock non anti lock brake

Lord Popgun_imp said:
Guth,

Are you saying you can get the bike to stop, from say 35 or 45 mph without using the front brake? Cause I can't. Heck it won't stop it going 10 or 20, although I am going to test it some.
Me too
 
Thread starter
mine will stop from 10 but not much more than that..30 plus? not a prayer.

Rode my buddys 08 1200 Sporster today..his rear brake is much much better than mine, but my fronts are much much better than his.
 
ferrett,

I tried it once today and agree. 10mph, yeah. 30, not so much.

I'm going to experiment more when I can. I had an '87 1100 Sportster, but I can't remember how good the rear brake was on it.
 
I jammed on the back brake only at 30, 50 and 60, doesn't stop me just locks up. I could drag the rear down to 0 if I wanted to flat spot it. It's been like that with all my bikes. You should be able to do the same, I think thats what started this thread. Doesn't seem right if you can't?
Front brakes are good enough for stoppies, like any bike.
 
I had an 03 Sportster and if the rear brake is worse on the CB11 that that then you have issues. The brakes on my Sportster were marginal to put it mildly.
 
I also noticed weak rear braking on my CB and didn't think much of it since I get by with the front brakes and engine braking. However, I found some hopefully useful information at http://www.hawkperformance.com/faq.php on the need for brake pad break-in or bedding for effective brake performance.

"Correct brake pad break-in (bedding) is important to assure quality braking performance over the life of the pad. This procedure allows the rubbing surface of the brake pad to be brought to temperatures, creating a transfer-film layer of friction material to be applied to the rotor surface. This allows the brake pad material to rub against itself rather than the bare rotor. This increases the stopping performance of the brake pad and can reduce pad and rotor wear."

and related procedure (for a car with the assumption that it also applies to a 2 wheeler)..

"After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car without coming to a complete stop. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times.
Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch.
If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal."

I will give this a try first and see how it goes.
 
Lord Popgun_imp said:
Guth,

Are you saying you can get the bike to stop, from say 35 or 45 mph without using the front brake? Cause I can't. Heck it won't stop it going 10 or 20, although I am going to test it some.
Yes, that's correct. However, due to the laws of physics, it's going to take much longer than using the front brakes. I typically use a little bit of my rear brake in conjunction with my fronts. Sometimes I'll use just the rear brake to scrub off a little speed here and there. But until this topic came up, I don't think I had ever tried stopping with the rear brake only.
 
Thread starter
Shoot, I wish. I can press mine hard and not slow down for 2 blocks. might work on that some today.
 
Tried pad break-in technique (accelerate to 40 and apply rear brakes down to 10 and repeat a few times) and either it's getting better or I'm getting used to it. I will bring it up with the dealer during 1st service.
 
Thread starter
Im heading over to my brothers house tomorrow to go up on his lift. We will pull my pads, sand them and see if that helps any.

I let him ride it the other day, and he came back saying " yea, there ain't much there" lol.
 
ferret, if your brother rides mine he is gonna say the same thing!
 
Thread starter
Well yesterday my brother and I pulled my pads, took a mill bastard file to them, then some heavy duty sand paper in a figure 8 pattern, blew them off and reinstalled. While the pads were out, I also scotch padded both sides of the disc again. Then I took a ride and did the 45 to 15 mph rear brake only thing about 5 times. Result : It's a little better, but certainly not what I'd expect.

I may stop at the dealership and let one of their techs take it for a ride and see what he thinks.
 
ferret,

I'd be interested in what they think. I'm going to have mine looked at when they replace the rear tire.
 
I was thinking how well the brakes perform on this bike. All my recent Honda's have linked brake systems ( non abs ) and don't like any of them. Braking on linked systems hard in a turn will stand you straight up, horrible feeling. You could never low side with them.

My rear brake is very good, it locks right up if i want it to allowing me to low side in case of danger. The rear brake on this bike is much better than my ST, CBR or XX all with linked brakes. My rear has a very strong bite but its new, we'll have to see when we get some miles on her.
 
Something has to be wrong. Not that it helps you stop but you should be able lock the rear wheel up at will. I have to be easy under hard braking so not to lock it up.
First, I'd be suspect of air or moisture in the line some how.
Then I would check out the hose, soft spot or bulgding, posible new but defective?
All us non-abs riders need stainless lines. One member has them IIRC.
Keep us posted :huh:
 
The ferret_imp said:
Well yesterday my brother and I pulled my pads, took a mill bastard file to them, then some heavy duty sand paper in a figure 8 pattern, blew them off and reinstalled. While the pads were out, I also scotch padded both sides of the disc again. Then I took a ride and did the 45 to 15 mph rear brake only thing about 5 times. Result : It's a little better, but certainly not what I'd expect.

I may stop at the dealership and let one of their techs take it for a ride and see what he thinks.
Mickey,

I am certain that you have air in your rear brake system. I deal with this a lot. On my aerobatic aircraft (they use independent hydraulic disc brakes just like our bikes) that spend a lot of time inverted or at negative G's some brake brake fluid is often lost out of the vent line and that introduces air into the system which causes the brake to get very spongy, loosing 75 to 90% of it's effectiveness. The fluid is not compressible and it provides a direct link to your calipers. Any air in your system is very compressible so instead of squeezing your brake pads against the discs you are compressing that air. Glazed pads will degrade braking effectiveness but not by a ton. Air in your system does. Get out your shop manual, bleed your rear brake system, fill it with fresh fluid, and then send me a thank you note. Cheers bro.

Chip
 
Thread starter
Took my ST out for a 325 mile spin today ( rear brakes on it are awesome)....for a hotdog lol. Drove from one side of Ohio durn near to the other to meet a riding buddy for lunch at a Sonic. tried the new pretzel bun hot dog with cheese and bacon, tater tots and sweet tea. Dog was just ok, couldn't taste the bacon. Tater tots and sweet tea were great. Any excuse for a ride!

I think you all might be right. It's under warranty so I will let them bleed it.
 
I must say you found a very good reason to introduce your aerobatic aircraft into the discussion! Is there any reason to suspect The Ferret is riding his motorcycle in an inverted position? Good thing it is fuel-injected, in that case, as gravity carbs tend to cut out under negative G's (as we all know from that opening scene in Battle of Britain).:cool:
The ferret_imp said:
Well yesterday my brother and I pulled my pads, took a mill bastard file to them, then some heavy duty sand paper in a figure 8 pattern, blew them off and reinstalled. While the pads were out, I also scotch padded both sides of the disc again. Then I took a ride and did the 45 to 15 mph rear brake only thing about 5 times. Result : It's a little better, but certainly not what I'd expect.

I may stop at the dealership and let one of their techs take it for a ride and see what he thinks.
That's your whole problem. Should have used a pedigreed file. They are hard to find, though.
I just use any of the muther......s in my tool box.
 
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