Missed Oil Change Step?

[jtopiso_imp]

Maybe 10-15 ounces? The oil cooler itself is easy to remove and drain, even if it does make a bit of a mess. It's the lines that I shouldn't have touched.

A cleaner way to remove more oil is -with the filter removed- to crank the engine 1 or 2 seconds (tops) with the killer switch cutting ignition: the oil pump will force out most of the oil, and it won't do any harm (the same as with any nomal start).

I did this on my old suzuki GS500 and my honda CBF500 withour problems. I haven't done an oil change myself on the CB yet.

 

[Cormanus]

I met a man yesterday who told me his oil change technique is to drain the oil and then fill his engine with 5 liters of diesel. He then cranks the engine a couple of times without allowing it to fire and then drains the engine again. He claims it purges a great deal more oil from the sump and the filter than is normally the case.

 

[peterbaron]

Whatever was said RE: Missed Oil Change Step? ...OK
I am not going to fight for a 1/3 glass of engine oil.....
Bottom line for me:; drain and fill hot. OEM. Any automotive engine with normal maintenance/driving condition. Period

pb

 

[Houtman_imp]

Whatever was said RE: Missed Oil Change Step? ...OK
I am not going to fight for a 1/3 glass of engine oil.....
Bottom line for me:; drain and fill hot. OEM. Any automotive engine with normal maintenance/driving condition. Period

pb

Same for me , keep it simple !

 

[LongRanger_imp]

I met a man yesterday who told me his oil change technique is to drain the oil and then fill his engine with 5 liters of diesel. He then cranks the engine a couple of times without allowing it to fire and then drains the engine again. He claims it purges a great deal more oil from the sump and the filter than is normally the case.

Interesting. Diesel is an effective solvent, not unlike kerosene. I would expect it to destroy the oil film on the crank bearings and piston rings.

 

[redbirds_imp]

I met a man yesterday who told me his oil change technique is to drain the oil and then fill his engine with 5 liters of diesel. He then cranks the engine a couple of times without allowing it to fire and then drains the engine again. He claims it purges a great deal more oil from the sump and the filter than is normally the case.

Never heard of that "technique" before. I agree with LongRanger; a foolish thing to do I think.

 

[tuareg]

Diesel would dissolve(or rather suspend) most of the sticky deposits, that's for sure. But then, after draining the dirty diesel, there'll be more than a few ounces of diesel remaining in the sump and non-drainable areas, which will serve to dilute the fresh engine oil :dodgy: . Which is something we don't want. So methinks diesel treatment would(or could) do more harm than good.
An alternative would be what we used to do with marine engines in the past: After hot draining the oil, fill with SAE 10 or 30 and run for a few minutes, then drain and fill with fresh oil. But those were ancient diesels.
With today's modern engines and synthetic oils, I honestly don't think a little sludge at the bottom of the sump will not do any real harm. I'm sure Honda guys have thought about that So I'm not splitting any hairs on the remaining oil in the sump. Drain warm, fill up, ride, check level:biker:

 

[2017EX_imp]

My intent in starting this thread was just meant to be a helpful reminder that step one for oil changes, after warming the old oil, as described in the shop manual, is to remove the oil filler cap before removing the drain bolt, and or filter. I think many of us have found over the years, that removing the filler cap before the drain bolt, works a bit more efficiently. That said, I also agree that I am not going to worry about what little might still still be in the sump. I have never had a problem with any machine by following procedures spelled out in the Shop Manual, but have had problems from time to time when I experimented or deviated from the Manual.

 

[SportsterDoc]

Diesel would dissolve(or rather suspend) most of the sticky deposits, that's for sure. But then, after draining the dirty diesel, there'll be more than a few ounces of diesel remaining in the sump and non-drainable areas, which will serve to dilute the fresh engine oil :dodgy: . Which is something we don't want. So methinks diesel treatment would(or could) do more harm than good.
An alternative would be what we used to do with marine engines in the past: After hot draining the oil, fill with SAE 10 or 30 and run for a few minutes, then drain and fill with fresh oil. But those were ancient diesels.
With today's modern engines and synthetic oils, I honestly don't think a little sludge at the bottom of the sump will not do any real harm. I'm sure Honda guys have thought about that So I'm not splitting any hairs on the remaining oil in the sump. Drain warm, fill up, ride, check level:biker:

Very important point, Tuareg.

The reason most of us suggest letting it drain to the last drop is not pertinent to the amount of oil left (1 quart)...it is for the purpose of draining as much bottom sediment as practical.

 

[tuareg]

My intent in starting this thread was just meant to be a helpful reminder that step one for oil changes, after warming the old oil, as described in the shop manual, is to remove the oil filler cap before removing the drain bolt, and or filter. I think many of us have found over the years, that removing the filler cap before the drain bolt, works a bit more efficiently. That said, I also agree that I am not going to worry about what little might still still be in the sump. I have never had a problem with any machine by following procedures spelled out in the Shop Manual, but have had problems from time to time when I experimented or deviated from the Manual.

I totally agree, 2017EX. removing the oil filler cap helps. I was trying to point out the potential risk of the diesel "treatment".

 

[SportsterDoc]

My intent in starting this thread was just meant to be a helpful reminder that step one for oil changes, after warming the old oil, as described in the shop manual, is to remove the oil filler cap before removing the drain bolt, and or filter. I think many of us have found over the years, that removing the filler cap before the drain bolt, works a bit more efficiently. That said, I also agree that I am not going to worry about what little might still still be in the sump. I have never had a problem with any machine by following procedures spelled out in the Shop Manual, but have had problems from time to time when I experimented or deviated from the Manual.

Your intent is appreciated and your point about better drainage on most bikes is valid.

However, I get less of a surge and hot dirty oil in places unwelcome, if I remove the drain plug, get the flow going, then open the filler cap.

YMMV

 

[2017EX_imp]

My intent in starting this thread was just meant to be a helpful reminder that step one for oil changes, after warming the old oil, as described in the shop manual, is to remove the oil filler cap before removing the drain bolt, and or filter. I think many of us have found over the years, that removing the filler cap before the drain bolt, works a bit more efficiently. That said, I also agree that I am not going to worry about what little might still still be in the sump. I have never had a problem with any machine by following procedures spelled out in the Shop Manual, but have had problems from time to time when I experimented or deviated from the Manual.

Your intent is appreciated and your point about better drainage on most bikes is valid.

However, I get less of a surge and hot dirty oil in places unwelcome, if I remove the drain plug, get the flow going, then open the filler cap.

YMMV

Your intent is appreciated and your point about better drainage on most bikes is valid.

However, I get less of a surge and hot dirty oil in places unwelcome, if I remove the drain plug, get the flow going, then open the filler cap.

YMMV Interesting, I had not thought of that small twist on the procedure outlined in the Shop Manual, but it makes sense while still staying within the spirit of the process. I will try it next oil change.

My intent in starting this thread was just meant to be a helpful reminder that step one for oil changes, after warming the old oil, as described in the shop manual, is to remove the oil filler cap before removing the drain bolt, and or filter. I think many of us have found over the years, that removing the filler cap before the drain bolt, works a bit more efficiently. That said, I also agree that I am not going to worry about what little might still still be in the sump. I have never had a problem with any machine by following procedures spelled out in the Shop Manual, but have had problems from time to time when I experimented or deviated from the Manual.

I totally agree, 2017EX. removing the oil filler cap helps. I was trying to point out the potential risk of the diesel "treatment".

I totally agree, 2017EX. removing the oil filler cap helps. I was trying to point out the potential risk of the diesel "treatment". No worries taureg, and I think there are more potential negatives than positives to the diesel flush as well. The Forum is doing exactly what it is supposed to do, exchange ideas and see which ones are good and which ones are probably not. I am glad Cormanus brought it up to discuss. I am also glad SportsterDoc brought up his small twist on the procedure too.