Malfunctioning ignition lock

geosar_imp

Running like a top
Thread starter
Recently I have been experiencing difficulty in turning the ignition lock on and also pulling the key from the lock. I have injected graphite material designed to lubricate the lock without improvement.

Has anyone experienced this and does any one have a suggestion regarding a repair.

Thank you

George
Arizona
 
That would have been my question as well. HAve you tried another key to see if it's the same?
 
Thread starter
Thank you for the help. I do not believe I bent the key but cannot rule it out. If I ever find my spare key I will try it out. WD40 is my next attempt I squirted lithium grease in the lock with no help.

Thank you again

George
Arizona
 
geosar_imp said:
Thank you for the help. I do not believe I bent the key but cannot rule it out. If I ever find my spare key I will try it out. WD40 is my next attempt I squirted lithium grease in the lock with no help.

Thank you again

George
Arizona
For electrical-related components, if you have to inject anything, consider silicone spray lubricant.
 
Thread starter
The issue here is the mechanical operation of the ignition key and lock. But silicone spray will be in my list of things to try.

Thank you

George
 
For this case, silicone may be a better choice over WD-40. In any case, your call.

- - -

Not sure if it is possible, but also peek down the switch to determine if there is any plastic "switch debris" or other possible foreign matter there. Give it a blow with some air pressure? (wear eye protection)
 
Thread starter
This is a great group.

My key was ever so slightly bent so some gentle prodding with a vice seemed to help. Tried the WD40 and it works perfectly for now.

Thank you for the help.

George
 
Wd 40 works in the short term great but Django is absolutely correct .. it will get tacky.

Another crazy thing that works will is scraping / shaving down pencil tip onto key and ignition lock and then running key in and out . Works like a charm if you don’t have anything else handy


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geosar_imp said:
This is a great group.

My key was ever so slightly bent so some gentle prodding with a vice seemed to help. Tried the WD40 and it works perfectly for now.

Thank you for the help.

George

Good deal George, glad it's working for you now.

Yep, very friendly and helpful folks hang out here.
 
Thread starter
I actually have a tube of powdered graphite meant for locks. That will be next.

Thank you again to everyone.

We are not afraid of a stinking polar vortex

George
Arizona
 
I always thought graphite was what you used on locks.

Glad you’ve fixed it geosar.
 
I wouldn't put graphite down an electrical switch/lock. Graphite is great for load-bearing locks like deadbolts and similar.

Silicone spray does not build-up and is safe on electrical and associated plastic parts.

- - -

Anyway, good to hear it was just a slightly bent key.
 
Cormanus_imp said:
I always thought graphite was what you used on locks.

Glad you’ve fixed it geosar.
That is what my dad taught me, but I have be using Remoil for decades.
My AZ ranch sees weather down into the teens and I have no lock issues, including trailer locks dating back to 1973 and 1977.
GoldOxide_imp said:
For this case, silicone may be a better choice over WD-40. In any case, your call.

- - -

Not sure if it is possible, but also peek down the switch to determine if there is any plastic "switch debris" or other possible foreign matter there. Give it a blow with some air pressure? (wear eye protection)
Better lubrication, but it sure likes to migrate.
 
SportsterDoc_imp said:
Cormanus_imp said:
I always thought graphite was what you used on locks.

Glad you’ve fixed it geosar.
That is what my dad taught me, but I have be using Remoil for decades.
My AZ ranch sees weather down into the teens and I have no lock issues, including trailer locks dating back to 1973 and 1977.
GoldOxide_imp said:
For this case, silicone may be a better choice over WD-40. In any case, your call.

- - -

Not sure if it is possible, but also peek down the switch to determine if there is any plastic "switch debris" or other possible foreign matter there. Give it a blow with some air pressure? (wear eye protection)
Better lubrication, but it sure likes to migrate.
I think that is by design. Similar behaviour as WD-40, but different composition, both are engineered to evaporate and leave a surface binding residuum. WD-40 leaves a petroleum-based artifact, while the other silicone. Silicone does not conduct electricity.

Unfortunately, graphite conducts electricity.
 
GoldOxide_imp said:
SportsterDoc_imp said:
Cormanus_imp said:
I always thought graphite was what you used on locks.

Glad you’ve fixed it geosar.
That is what my dad taught me, but I have be using Remoil for decades.
My AZ ranch sees weather down into the teens and I have no lock issues, including trailer locks dating back to 1973 and 1977.
GoldOxide_imp said:
For this case, silicone may be a better choice over WD-40. In any case, your call.

- - -

Not sure if it is possible, but also peek down the switch to determine if there is any plastic "switch debris" or other possible foreign matter there. Give it a blow with some air pressure? (wear eye protection)
Better lubrication, but it sure likes to migrate.
I think that is by design. Similar behaviour as WD-40, but different composition, both are engineered to evaporate and leave a surface binding residuum. WD-40 leaves a petroleum-based artifact, while the other silicone. Silicone does not conduct electricity.

Unfortunately, graphite conducts electricity.
True.
Used to apply it (consistency of grease) to exterior bridge room insulators at Sylmar Converter Station. The 800,000 volt DC line attracted Interstate 15 pollutants more than a 230,000 volt AC transmission line.
 
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