Low end sputter, hesitation

[NHCB_imp]

Yup, just pop off the side cover, unplug the o2 and put this in its place. But to put the plug in the exhaust will require removeing the headers to get the o2 out, so I'll do that at a later time.

 

[Ack-CB11_imp]

Plug & Play installation ?

Yes, very simple. I was happy with the results, being cheap and easy usually doesn't get you much.

 

[redbirds_imp]

Thanks for the info. Just ordered one.

 

[Siggy Javotnik_imp]

So glad this worked for you! As far as removing the actual O2 sensor, I'll probably never do it. You either have to pull the headers or buy a special wrench (from Koken, $35, see here: http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=1779 )

Plus, it seems like the way to maintain value of a bike is keep it as stock as possible -- with this mod, it takes 5 minutes to pull the O2 eliminator from under the side cover and re-attach the stock O2 cable.

On the other hand, I get that people love the feeling of removing stuff from their bike. Some people like to add farkles, some of us like to strip things we find unnecessary. I get it, and I'm more like the latter. Sometimes, I feel like I've bought a used bike in part to rescue it from it's horrible modifications. Peter Egan wrote about buying a bike, then riding it around the corner to carefully remove the iron cross decals that were all over the thing. That's when a want ad becomes a ransom note. :dodgy:

 

[redbirds_imp]

So glad this worked for you! As far as removing the actual O2 sensor, I'll probably never do it. You either have to pull the headers or buy a special wrench (from Koken, $35, see here: http://cb1100forum.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=1779 )

Plus, it seems like the way to maintain value of a bike is keep it as stock as possible -- with this mod, it takes 5 minutes to pull the O2 eliminator from under the side cover and re-attach the stock O2 cable.

On the other hand, I get that people love the feeling of removing stuff from their bike. Some people like to add farkles, some of us like to strip things we find unnecessary. I get it, and I'm more like the latter. Sometimes, I feel like I've bought a used bike in part to rescue it from it's horrible modifications. Peter Egan wrote about buying a bike, then riding it around the corner to carefully remove the iron cross decals that were all over the thing. That's when a want ad becomes a ransom note. :dodgy:

:rofl: Well said.

 

[Gumby 1100_imp]

In my typical fashion I ordered an O2 Sensor Eliminator plug, AND THEN did some interweb research. Now I'm concerned about installing it.

I found a single reference on the interweb about potential damage to the O2 Lambda Sensor if it is bypassed/disconnected but not removed from the exhaust. Apparently the sensor normally gets preheated in order to produce proper readings before the exhaust gets fully warmed up. The thread author stated that the disconnected (but not removed) sensor would eventually foul and would not work properly if ever reconnected.

Is this a valid concern? Wouldn't a fully warmed up exhaust be hot enough to burn off any residue on the sensor membrane?

Someone, please, put my fears to rest!

 

[Lord Popgun]

If you google o2 sensor operation the theory explanations address just that. One said the reason they went to heated sensors was that the ones heated by the exhaust tooki a while to warm up and would foul up and other not good things (can't remember it all).

 

[Gumby 1100_imp]

If you google o2 sensor operation the theory explanations address just that. One said the reason they went to heated sensors was that the ones heated by the exhaust tooki a while to warm up and would foul up and other not good things (can't remember it all).

So, does that mean the sensors permanently fouled or just initially when warming up, enough to cause poor readings.

Will installing the O2 Sensor Eliminator Plug permanently damage the Sensor if I leave it in the exhaust?

 

[redbirds_imp]

Whether connected or not would seem to me of little difference. I intend to leave it in place. I cannot understand how having it disconnected would cause the sensor to fail.

 

[Gumby 1100_imp]

Whether connected or not would seem to me of little difference. I intend to leave it in place. I cannot understand how having it disconnected would cause the sensor to fail.

Well, I don't either! The little bit of current that it would receive while connected would not seem to be enough to burn off any serious fouling. I would then expect that as the exhaust heats up, it would remove any fouling that might have accumulated while the bike was warming up.

In their video the Power Commander people don't say that the O2 Sensor needs to be removed after installing their Optimizer (Bypass) Plug.

However, I just don't want to risk the Sensor in case I ever have to remove the
bypass plug or if the resistors in the plug fail (they apparently can get quite hot to the touch).

Has anyone used a Bypass Plug for any period of time and then removed it? Did the Sensor still work or did it throw an EFI Code indicating that it had failed?

 

[Lord Popgun]

From Wiki:

Normally, the lifetime of an unheated sensor is about 30,000 to 50,000 miles (50,000 to 80,000 km). Heated sensor lifetime is typically 100,000 miles (160,000 km). Failure of an unheated sensor is usually caused by the buildup of soot on the ceramic element, which lengthens its response time and may cause total loss of ability to sense oxygen. For heated sensors, normal deposits are burned off during operation and failure occurs due to catalyst depletion. The probe then tends to report lean mixture, the ECU enriches the mixture, the exhaust gets rich with carbon monoxide and hydrocarbons, and the fuel economy worsens.

Leaded gasoline contaminates the oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. Most oxygen sensors are rated for some service life in the presence of leaded gasoline but sensor life will be shortened to as little as 15,000 miles depending on the lead concentration. Lead-damaged sensors typically have their tips discolored light rusty.

Another common cause of premature failure of lambda probes is contamination of fuel with silicones (used in some sealings and greases) or silicates (used as corrosion inhibitors in some antifreezes). In this case, the deposits on the sensor are colored between shiny white and grainy light gray.

Leaks of oil into the engine may cover the probe tip with an oily black deposit, with associated loss of response.

An overly rich mixture causes buildup of black powdery deposit on the probe. This may be caused by failure of the probe itself, or by a problem elsewhere in the fuel rationing system.

Applying an external voltage to the zirconia sensors, e.g. by checking them with some types of ohmmeter, may damage them.

Some sensors have an air inlet to the sensor in the lead, so contamination from the lead caused by water or oil leaks can be sucked into the sensor and cause failure.



I'm not taking sides and don't care one way or the other what you do--just posting the info. I'd most likely just leave it in too though (I guess thats taking a side?)

 

[Siggy Javotnik_imp]

O2 sensors will fail at some point. Then you'd have to either fiddle out the old sensor and replace it, or do the smart thing (IMO) and switch to an eliminator / resistor that won't be living it's life in the rather unfriendly environment of superheated dirty air that is your exhaust.

 

[Chapomis_imp]

It all makes sense to me, good work guys ! .....i'm leaving mine in.

 

[Gumby 1100_imp]

I just received an e-mail from Steve Bracher from Redline Superbikes (the U.K. source many are buying these O2 Sensor Eliminator Plugs from).

He states that it is best to remove and store the O2 Lambda Sensor if you are bypassing it to prevent it from getting fouled irreparably.

 

[Chapomis_imp]

??? does the DLX have one or two ? (to late in the evening for me to look) I am going to assume one.

 

[Gumby 1100_imp]

??? does the DLX have one or two ? (to late in the evening for me to look) I am going to assume one.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it.

 

[lash_imp]

??? does the DLX have one or two ? (to late in the evening for me to look) I am going to assume one.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it. Save your money on the socket tool and just cut a slot in an old 17mm wrench. Works perfect.

 

[Toddman_imp]

??? does the DLX have one or two ? (to late in the evening for me to look) I am going to assume one.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it. Save your money on the socket tool and just cut a slot in an old 17mm wrench. Works perfect.

The DLX has TWO P/N: 36531-MGC-N21 (O2 Lambda Sensors) worth approximately $150 U.S.D. each.

I was just looking at the single sensor on my 2014 Canadian model and there is no way to get it out without removing the header and very little chance of removing it without the special cut-away socket tool. I may just hang on to my Bypass Plug until my sensor craps out on its own, and then use it. Save your money on the socket tool and just cut a slot in an old 17mm wrench. Works perfect.
Will an open end wrench work?

 

[lash_imp]

I couldn't find one that was narrow enough around the end to fit in the shroud. The other end of the wrench in the pic is an open end and it doesn't fit. Takes less than 5 min. to cut the slot.

 

[Chapomis_imp]

I received my 02 eliminator yesterday. So this morning before I went to meet ACKCB, I pulled the right-hand side-cover and found a 4 pin connector that matched it elim. Started the bike and rode to meet ACK. The sputtering seemed to still be there. What I didn't notice right away was that the spedo wasn't working and the ABS light was on..... We stopped in Sconset and "Thank Honda" for the right allen wrench in the "Tool Kit" and I pulled the cover to remove the Elim and ACK noticed that there were two 4 pin connectors, so we swapped it out. Same result ! No spedo and didn't go far enough to see if the sputtering had stopped. Removed the elim and all was back to normal. Does anyone have a repair manual for the DLX. Is it possible that there is another 4 pin somewhere ? Or maybe this just dosn't work on a DLX ?