Low end sputter, hesitation

JustPassinThru_imp said:
Chapomis_imp said:
Hmmmm, The day I picked up my bike I didn't notice any sputtering. The next time I rode, it definitely sputtered at low rpms and like NHCB, I was a little perturbed. I needed fuel so I added half a bottle of additive and topped of the tank. I rode it for a few miles after fill up and don't remember if it sputtered. I am assuming not as I didn't notice it. I'm off-isle now so can't go check, but will try tomorrow. Crappy gas in the NE ?
Mine occasionally runs rough when moving around at walking speed...about 1200 rpm in 1st. Sometimes starts loping or missing and then clears up.

Occasionally it has stalled when starting from a stop. Not luggin it, just flips off like it was killed.

This isn't enough of a problem yet to research. Mostly it runs fine; electrical gremlins...you can't kill them; you can only contain them and keep them to a minimum. Like rats and mice.
Mine occasionally runs rough when moving around at walking speed...about 1200 rpm in 1st. Sometimes starts loping or missing and then clears up.

Occasionally it has stalled when starting from a stop. Not luggin it, just flips off like it was killed.

This isn't enough of a problem yet to research. Mostly it runs fine; electrical gremlins...you can't kill them; you can only contain them and keep them to a minimum. Like rats and mice.
Short ride this afternoon, didn't notice any sputtering.
 
I am very familiar with this condition, from about 1200 rpm through to 3k. it seems as though the throttles are not synced properly. I pulled my bike apart, and the only adjustment I see is the one linking the right cylinder throttle shaft with the left. its not like the traditional four butterfly sync system. I did however notice four screws on the bottom, one for each throttle body. they appear as some sort of mixture screw for the idle air control valve. which makes sense, there is only one i.a.c. to supply all four barrels.
i think i figured it out. i read on here and a few other places that cylinders #1 and #2 have slightly retarded intake cam timing to give the exhaust note that classic sound. all i did was increase the idle screws for cylinders 1 and 2 about 3/8ths of a turn out. this instantly smoothed the idle and now there is no hesitation or stumble AT ALL. again, the screws are located at the bottom of the throttle bodies. no disassembly is required to get to them. pay attention to how much you turn each one, that way you can rectify if needed. only the cylinders with retarded intake timing seem to be affected by the stumble (cyl 1 and 2)
 
NHCB_imp said:
I know of one a little over an hour away but don't know him well enough to ask to ride his bike. I don't think there's any others in the S.NH area. If there is and your reading this do you mind meeting up? I will say that with the stock exh it is significantly less noticeable because you can't hear it, only feel. So I wonder if others with stock each simply just don't notice it. When I notice something like this I really focus on it and it drives me crazy. So that might be part of it is I just focus on it too much.
Hi NHCB. I tried to read this thread correctly but I don't think I saw anywhere that you tried doing the Throttle trick? Give it a go and report?

Cheers
 
lemontree_imp said:
NHCB_imp said:
I know of one a little over an hour away but don't know him well enough to ask to ride his bike. I don't think there's any others in the S.NH area. If there is and your reading this do you mind meeting up? I will say that with the stock exh it is significantly less noticeable because you can't hear it, only feel. So I wonder if others with stock each simply just don't notice it. When I notice something like this I really focus on it and it drives me crazy. So that might be part of it is I just focus on it too much.
Hi NHCB. I tried to read this thread correctly but I don't think I saw anywhere that you tried doing the Throttle trick? Give it a go and report?

Cheers
Hi NHCB. I tried to read this thread correctly but I don't think I saw anywhere that you tried doing the Throttle trick? Give it a go and report?

Cheers
He did try the throttle trick more than once and it didn't work. I would think ethanol slightly buggered injectors or electrics that got some moisture in them.
 
Thread starter
hondatillthedayidie_imp said:
I am very familiar with this condition, from about 1200 rpm through to 3k. it seems as though the throttles are not synced properly. I pulled my bike apart, and the only adjustment I see is the one linking the right cylinder throttle shaft with the left. its not like the traditional four butterfly sync system. I did however notice four screws on the bottom, one for each throttle body. they appear as some sort of mixture screw for the idle air control valve. which makes sense, there is only one i.a.c. to supply all four barrels.
i think i figured it out. i read on here and a few other places that cylinders #1 and #2 have slightly retarded intake cam timing to give the exhaust note that classic sound. all i did was increase the idle screws for cylinders 1 and 2 about 3/8ths of a turn out. this instantly smoothed the idle and now there is no hesitation or stumble AT ALL. again, the screws are located at the bottom of the throttle bodies. no disassembly is required to get to them. pay attention to how much you turn each one, that way you can rectify if needed. only the cylinders with retarded intake timing seem to be affected by the stumble (cyl 1 and 2)
Thanks for the info, I will check this out. I wouldnt have thought there would be a mixture screw on fuel injection, but I hope it works for mine too. It might be a little while untill I get to it but ill let you know how it goes.
 
Thread starter
So is it 1 and 2 cylinders as in from left to right? Or as in firing order? If its firing order, which ones are they?
 
If you are sitting on the bike, Cylinder 1 is on the left, then 2, 3, and finally, 4 on the right.
This from the service manual.

edit to add: firing order 1 2 4 3
 
Thread starter
Lord Popgun_imp said:
If you are sitting on the bike, Cylinder 1 is on the left, then 2, 3, and finally, 4 on the right.
This from the service manual.

edit to add: firing order 1 2 4 3
Thanks popgun!
 
Pity it doesn't fire 4,3,2,1. God knows what would happen next!
 
NHCB, one thing that REALLY smooths out the throttle at low openings is controversial: pull your right-hand side cover, disconnect the O2 sensor cable, and plug in a $20 resistor like you can find in a eBay search for "CB1100 O2 eliminator." I say "controversial" because many people think O2 sensors are about power. They're not -- they're about emissions. They only affect the bike at low RPM and small throttle openings, exactly where you're describing the problem. They're designed to keep the bike very lean at those openings for emissions purposes. They're not atmospheric pressure sensors or ambient temperature sensors -- most modern bikes have those, and they've nothing to do with the O2 exhaust sensor. I'm just saying, for the level of frustration you're describing, this is a relatively cheap and easy possible fix. Just unplug (under the side cover -- there's no need to physically remove the sensor from the exhaust, which would be a PITA), plug in the resistor, put the side plate back on, and see if it works. If not, no big whoop, just plug the sensor back in. It's worked for me on snatchy fuel injected bikes.
 
Thread starter
I tried adjusting the screws on the 1 and 2 throttle bodies.... And as I expected, no better. Siggy, I will try your suggestion. THe bike does run ok on when it is warming up, for the first 5-10 minutes. From what I read online the 02 eliminator basically keeps it in that mode. Only potential down fall is a little bit of fuel milage, which I dont mind that if it solves the problem. I didnt buy this bike for mileage or commuting, I bought it for enjoyment. So we'll see how it goes.
 
Worked for my brother on his 07 Multistrada 1100 which had run horribly at low rpms. Minus the O2 sensor, it cleared right up. Let's face it, they do choke these engines. opening them up does wonders.
 
NHCB_imp said:
I tried adjusting the screws on the 1 and 2 throttle bodies.... And as I expected, no better. Siggy, I will try your suggestion. THe bike does run ok on when it is warming up, for the first 5-10 minutes. From what I read online the 02 eliminator basically keeps it in that mode. Only potential down fall is a little bit of fuel milage, which I dont mind that if it solves the problem. I didnt buy this bike for mileage or commuting, I bought it for enjoyment. So we'll see how it goes.
For what it's worth, my fuel mileage got substantially better after the O2 eliminator, in addition to smoothing throttle response. Don't ask me why! Maybe the herky-jerky over-lean stock fueling ends up with more fuel being shoved in there by ham-fisted me. But regardless of the cause: better fuel mileage for me.
 
Thread starter
lemontree_imp said:
NHCB , have you had a chance to ask a different mechanic for a second opinion?

Many thanks!
I have talked to a few different people, one guy I know at the dealer, a friend that owns a small shop, and just a few days ago found out there is a local guy with a dyno. We've talked about different things but all seem to think its lean fueling. So why did I send the ecu to Guhl twice????? And have it richened twice???? I wish I didn't send it. That's a lot of money that could have been spent elsewhere. I'm going to bring it and have the guy put it on his dyno to see what's going on. He's just waiting for a new part because lightning did some damage to his machine.
 
I just looked into the O2 eliminator. One being offered came with a threaded plug and copper washer. Are those for the exhaust sensor ?
 
Thread starter
Yeah the plug and washer are so you can remove the o2 sensor and plug the hole. But you need to drop the headers to get the sensor out so its a little extra work.
 
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