Hunting rpm

Glad I'm under warranty too, popgun. To my understanding, the IACV motor is a part of the throttle body, hence why they are replacing the whole part.

Not sure if that is correct, but either way, as long as it permanently fixes the bike, I'm happy.
 
It does mount in the throttle body, but is available as a separate part. OTOH, by replacing the whole thing, you also get a new TPS.
 
popgun, got it. I went back and re-read my email exchange with the dealership, and I believe they are replacing only the IACV motor. Not sure how that changes the effectiveness of the repair.

I will ask for the testing paperwork showing the IACV motor as the failed part. If they cannot produce this, I am not taking another chance with keeping the bike. If they can, and do show how the part failed, contributed to the fault condition, and was rectified without any other changes, then I will feel OK with keeping the bike.

I keep going back and forth and how I feel about keeping the bike after this experience. It will depend on how the dealership can take me through the repair process. If it seems sound, I believe I'll keep the bike.
 
The ferret_imp said:
I just looked yesterday, my DLX is about 1200-1300 on warm up and 1000 when warm.

My 14 standard is the same. One day I was riding and the idle did drop low.. and stayed low but the bike did not die... so far no real issues. I am under extended warranty that I paid to much for..I will bring it in if I have any issues the guy at the dealership that sold it to me moved to another dealership as that one had closed.... same guy who got me on the high price warranty .. I may see if I can squeeze him for something down the road.


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IACV motor replaced and the issue went away without an ECU reset. While this is hopefully the fix that sticks, I will list the bike and see what I can get for it.

Motogeezer, still selling that XSR? :)
 
Geezer was selling his XSR? I know he was selling his CB.
 
johnf514_imp said:
IACV motor replaced and the issue went away without an ECU reset. While this is hopefully the fix that sticks, I will list the bike and see what I can get for it.

Motogeezer, still selling that XSR? :)
Only thing I can tell you about this is that any modern bike is going to exhibit technology-driven issues such as this one from time to time.

The bike is honestly not that exhilarating on the whole, it is heavy and slow and I can see if one was not that enamored of it, after this experience, cut it loose.

But these tech gremlins lurk in every brand, and more so in some than others.

So, if you actually do really like the bike, contemplate it for a time. Any equivalent retro-style replacement is much likely less-sorted than the CB1100, be it BMW, Triumph, or whomever.

Speaking of the Yamaha, terrible fueling on the triples. Terrible. Can it be endured? Perhaps. Maybe that's why the XSR is for sale, though, it if is.

I can say one thing, I never buy a motorcycle based on looks or the promise of some return to the past. Those design teams know how our nostalgic minds work and act accordingly. But the accountants cut pennies everywhere. The Yamaha triple is just such a bike, it promises so much: light, powerful, agile, and a bargain. But a cheap ECU and programming, mediocre chassis and suspension, and numerous other warts seriously betray it.

The CB1100 is no such bike, it's built cleanly and purely from a very pristine sheet of paper, in Honda's most advanced manufacturing facility. There are enough of them now to demonstrate excellent longevity and durability, and other than a few faulty batteries, there have been no real issues with the bike.

If this RPM issue has affected a few, there is a solution and it sounds like it's been effected.
 
Ferret, yessir, I don't have the CL link in front of me, but I chatted with him about it a few weeks ago. It is on sale in the Orlando market.

Ulvetanna, thank you for the comprehensive reply. I've read about the fueling on the triples and the XSR appears to have resolved some/most of that problem. I believe the CB is a fantastic bike, and that the Honda brand and CB line are a cut above anything I have previously owned.

However, I cannot reconcile the experience that I've had and how in nine months of ownership, I've gone from looking forward to riding to dreading the next problem I'll have. While I'm not a fan of radical change, beating your head against the wall repeatedly does not make for a satisfying experience. I can tell you that the high idle issue has figuratively felt like that.

It is unfortunate. If this was my daily driver, I would have been significantly affected. As it stands now, I have had to repeatedly find my way to & from the nearest dealership (19 miles from my house), wait multiple weeks for repairs, deal with a apathetic service shop, and ride with uncertainty wondering when the next failure would arise.

Both Kawi's I owned (the 636, for seven years) never did this. The Triumph my friend owns and put +3K miles on riding the PCH this summer never did. His S1000R never did.

There is always a visceral reaction to defend what we love, but when what we love fails us, my logic dictates to do something different.
 
Yea it's tough when something lets you done, and disheartening if it does it more than once. I can certainly understand your apprehension about owning this particular bike in the future. Good luck with whatever route you take in the future.

Fow what it's worth I have ridden the XSR and my son has an 2016 FJ-09, and the fueling is far and away better than first year model FZ's which were nearly unrideable.
 
The ferret_imp said:
Yea it's tough when something lets you done, and disheartening if it does it more than once. I can certainly understand your apprehension about owning this particular bike in the future. Good luck with whatever route you take in the future.

Fow what it's worth I have ridden the XSR and my son has an 2016 FJ-09, and the fueling is far and away better than first year model FZ's which were nearly unrideable.
All the same I would not recommend replacing your CB1100 with an XSR.

I'm not defending the bike because I love it, just pointing out that technology can fail in any bike. The CB1100 is not known for these kinds of failures. But I've gotten fed up with a couple of bikes that I actually liked even better than my CB1100: a Hawk GT with a fueling issue I couldn't resolve comes to mind, I finally just traded it in. You just have to move on.
 
My bike has been exhibiting this hunting RPM for several months now. Sometimes too low, and stalling, and sometimes too high (about 1,500). The hunting went away for about two months, but the first time I rode it for an extended time around town with lots of stop & go, waiting for red lights, slow speeds and low RPM between stop lights, the low idle speed and stalling returned. Last weekend after it stalled the second time and I restarted it it suddenly went from idling too slow to idling too fast. Another member who visits this forum alerted us that the high speed idle on his bike was the result of a faulty Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) gauge. Two nights ago, when the high speed idle returned, I reached in with a gloved hand and pulled the wire off the EOT sensor. Magically the RPM returned to exactly 1,000 (it was at 1,500). The check engine light came on also. I turned the engine off, reconnected the EOT wire and restarted the engine and the high idle returned. So just yesterday I ordered an EOT sensor from my dealer. I have two questions: 1. I have proven a faulty EOT sensor will cause the idle speed to go high, but can it work both ways? 2. How can I test the new EOT sensor to ensure it is good before installing it?
 
Dave_imp said:
My bike has been exhibiting this hunting RPM for several months now. Sometimes too low, and stalling, and sometimes too high (about 1,500). The hunting went away for about two months, but the first time I rode it for an extended time around town with lots of stop & go, waiting for red lights, slow speeds and low RPM between stop lights, the low idle speed and stalling returned. Last weekend after it stalled the second time and I restarted it it suddenly went from idling too slow to idling too fast. Another member who visits this forum alerted us that the high speed idle on his bike was the result of a faulty Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) gauge. Two nights ago, when the high speed idle returned, I reached in with a gloved hand and pulled the wire off the EOT sensor. Magically the RPM returned to exactly 1,000 (it was at 1,500). The check engine light came on also. I turned the engine off, reconnected the EOT wire and restarted the engine and the high idle returned. So just yesterday I ordered an EOT sensor from my dealer. I have two questions: 1. I have proven a faulty EOT sensor will cause the idle speed to go high, but can it work both ways? 2. How can I test the new EOT sensor to ensure it is good before installing it?
Do you have service manual? The procedures are listed there.
 
To check the actual EOT sensor itself, turn the ignition off and remove the connector. On the sensor terminals measure the resistance.

From the manual: STANDARD: 2.4-2.9 Kohms (20degrees C/68 degrees F)
 
Hey Dave,
Your EOT might not be faulty. The fault may occur when the oil reaches a certain temp and the ECU changes something, although why turning it off and on again helps, I'm not sure...
I've had this problem for a while and I've been assured that honda have sent a re-map to dealers to instal on bikes with this prob. It's only some years and models.

I haven't had it done yet, but might get it done this next week.
I'll report back how it goes. My bike does it most times I'm dawdling thru town with my girl on the back. I should be able to see if it has any effect fairly quickly...
 
Ulvetanna_imp said:
Dave_imp said:
My bike has been exhibiting this hunting RPM for several months now. Sometimes too low, and stalling, and sometimes too high (about 1,500). The hunting went away for about two months, but the first time I rode it for an extended time around town with lots of stop & go, waiting for red lights, slow speeds and low RPM between stop lights, the low idle speed and stalling returned. Last weekend after it stalled the second time and I restarted it it suddenly went from idling too slow to idling too fast. Another member who visits this forum alerted us that the high speed idle on his bike was the result of a faulty Engine Oil Temperature (EOT) gauge. Two nights ago, when the high speed idle returned, I reached in with a gloved hand and pulled the wire off the EOT sensor. Magically the RPM returned to exactly 1,000 (it was at 1,500). The check engine light came on also. I turned the engine off, reconnected the EOT wire and restarted the engine and the high idle returned. So just yesterday I ordered an EOT sensor from my dealer. I have two questions: 1. I have proven a faulty EOT sensor will cause the idle speed to go high, but can it work both ways? 2. How can I test the new EOT sensor to ensure it is good before installing it?
Do you have service manual? The procedures are listed there.
Do you have service manual? The procedures are listed there. I own a Honda service manual, and the only thing I can find on the EOT sensor is on page 5-77, and all this is for the removal and installation. Can you point me to the page? Thanks.
beardyweirdy@me.com_imp said:
Hey Dave,
Your EOT might not be faulty. The fault may occur when the oil reaches a certain temp and the ECU changes something, although why turning it off and on again helps, I'm not sure...
I've had this problem for a while and I've been assured that honda have sent a re-map to dealers to instal on bikes with this prob. It's only some years and models.

I haven't had it done yet, but might get it done this next week.
I'll report back how it goes. My bike does it most times I'm dawdling thru town with my girl on the back. I should be able to see if it has any effect fairly quickly...
Thank you for your feedback. I have seen posts in this forum where people claim a ECU change is available, and I have seen posts where people have been told by their dealer that a ECU change is not available. What year and model is your bike? Mike is a 2014 deluxe. Please post any news you have on tis subject. Thanks again.
Lord Popgun_imp said:
To check the actual EOT sensor itself, turn the ignition off and remove the connector. On the sensor terminals measure the resistance.

From the manual: STANDARD: 2.4-2.9 Kohms (20degrees C/68 degrees F)
Thank you popgun. Did you find this in the Honda service manual? What page?
beardyweirdy@me.com_imp said:
Hey Dave,
Your EOT might not be faulty. The fault may occur when the oil reaches a certain temp and the ECU changes something, although why turning it off and on again helps, I'm not sure...
I've had this problem for a while and I've been assured that honda have sent a re-map to dealers to instal on bikes with this prob. It's only some years and models.

I haven't had it done yet, but might get it done this next week.
I'll report back how it goes. My bike does it most times I'm dawdling thru town with my girl on the back. I should be able to see if it has any effect fairly quickly...
That's an interesting coincidence. The only time I have experienced the high idle / low idle - stalling is when riding around town, when I spend a lot of time waiting at stop lights. I thought maybe it was because the engine was getting hot, but the same thing has happened on a cool day (low 70's). Also, my wife is usually on the back when this happens.
 
I think you have to look under the fuel system. Manual is in the garage or I'd check. I just saw the procedure a few days ago because I needed to remove/replace the tank to install the s/s clutch line.
 
In the '14 manual--page 5-21, and is in the fuel system like Wolf says.
 
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