Fork Gaiters and Heated Grips

tdbru

Running like a top
Thread starter
besides getting the rear brake arm bent out correctly, I finished up 3 other farkle projects.

1. fork gaiters
2. oxford hotgrips pro touring install
3. scott oiler install

I'll add photos and text in that order
-tdbru


fork gaiters:
following advice from Ferret on the old forum I ordered a set of Kawasaki W650 fork gaiters.  got them installed per the old forum discussion and looking through the service manual for specs.


oxford hotgrips pro touring install.

took the old grips off. 
a.  took off bar end weights
b.  wiggled a long but thin flat blade screwdriver down the length of the grip
c.  took my can of spray cable lube with the straw attachment on the end and gave a light spray alongside the screwdriver under the factory grip.  did that twice, 180 degrees from each other.  pulled the grips right off.
d. wiped down the bar(left) and throttle tube(right) with brake cleaner to get all the cable lube off.
e.  worked both heated grips into place.  only glued (sparingly) the one that went on the throttle tube.  the other was quite tight as is once slid on.
f.  routed the wire looms between the tank and the top of the engine (took the tank off) back to the battery compartment area.

g.  looked on the wiring diagram and thought I'd found an ignition spare plug.  thought it was the unused plug on the back side of the battery compartment behind the tool tray.
h.  took out the tool tray.
i.  hooked up the positive 12V lead from the grips to the red/green wire in the 4 terminal plug.  hooked up the black negative 12V lead from the grips to the green wire in the 4 terminal plug.

tested it out.  grips worked, but that set of wires was NOT on the ignition.  it was always on.  bummer.  So I'll have to always remember to turn the grips off when I shut off the bike.

j.  reinstalled the tank.
 

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tdbru said:
besides getting the rear brake arm bent out correctly, I finished up 3 other farkle projects.

1. fork gaiters
2. oxford hotgrips pro touring install
3. scott oiler install

I'll add photos and text in that order
-tdbru


fork gaiters:
following advice from Ferret on the old forum I ordered a set of Kawasaki W650 fork gaiters.  got them installed per the old forum discussion and looking through the service manual for specs.


oxford hotgrips pro touring install.

took the old grips off. 
a.  took off bar end weights
b.  wiggled a long but thin flat blade screwdriver down the length of the grip
c.  took my can of spray cable lube with the straw attachment on the end and gave a light spray alongside the screwdriver under the factory grip.  did that twice, 180 degrees from each other.  pulled the grips right off.
d. wiped down the bar(left) and throttle tube(right) with brake cleaner to get all the cable lube off.
e.  worked both heated grips into place.  only glued (sparingly) the one that went on the throttle tube.  the other was quite tight as is once slid on.
f.  routed the wire looms between the tank and the top of the engine (took the tank off) back to the battery compartment area.

g.  looked on the wiring diagram and thought I'd found an ignition spare plug.  thought it was the unused plug on the back side of the battery compartment behind the tool tray.
h.  took out the tool tray.
i.  hooked up the positive 12V lead from the grips to the red/green wire in the 4 terminal plug.  hooked up the black negative 12V lead from the grips to the green wire in the 4 terminal plug.

tested it out.  grips worked, but that set of wires was NOT on the ignition.  it was always on.  bummer.  So I'll have to always remember to turn the grips off when I shut off the bike.

j.  reinstalled the tank.



I would much rather be helping you fix your motorcycle than sorting out data migration from the old site!  :)  thanks for the updates and the pictures. It is why we are here. Great work.
 
Nice write up, tdbru.
 
For some reason I can’t see any pictures in any of your posts. Are you taking the down shortly after posting? if not, how are you posting them?
 
I absolutely love the heated grips. Big time game changer for cooler weather riding
 
Whoops said:
For some reason I can’t see any pictures in any of your posts. Are you taking the down shortly after posting? if not, how are you posting them?

good morning. have you tried clearing your cache, restarting your device, and trying again?
 
rdprdp01 said:
Whoops said:
For some reason I can’t see any pictures in any of your posts. Are you taking the down shortly after posting? if not, how are you posting them?

good morning. have you tried clearing your cache, restarting your device, and trying again?

Yes. Thank you. It's only tdbru's images. I can view all others. Just curious if he is posting them to the forum directly or using an image hosting service. I will check source from my PC when I get back to it.
rdprdp01 said:
Whoops said:
For some reason I can’t see any pictures in any of your posts. Are you taking the down shortly after posting? if not, how are you posting them?

good morning. have you tried clearing your cache, restarting your device, and trying again?

Yes. Thank you. It's only tdbru's images. I can view all others. Just curious if he is posting them to the forum directly or using an image hosting service. I will check source from my PC when I get back to it.
 
Thread starter
posting them directly.  Not sure why you can't see them.  they're jpeg images.  This is likely a silly question, but you have logged in, right?  Otherwise I have no idea why you can't see the images.  Perhaps follow rdprdp01's advice and free up some machine memory (clear the cache and perhaps empty the trash, clean out the temp folder) on your machine??  And if I've made a goof, please point it out so I can post pictures correctly next time.
-tdbru
 
I can see the pictures.
 
Interesting that it doesn’t switch. Looking at the diagram the rear option connector has 2 12v lines. One is R/G and the other is Bl/Br. Their source is the battery to ignition switch to the fuse block and supplies all the fuses, then out to their terminations.

The headlight shell option connector uses ground G colored wire and Bl/Br for for power. Only has 2 wires. The option connectors are on separate fuses, fuse F and G. Unless you are in the DLC connector (which has no R/G wire) the ignition OFF should remove power from the grips.

The 2010-2013 bikes are wired differently.
 
Thread starter
Lord Popgun,
that's what I thought too.  I figured that plug would be on the ignition switch.  but with the key in the off position, the grips are still hot (pun intended).  So I'll just have to make sure I turn them off after using them. 
-tdbru
 
tdbru said:
posting them directly.  Not sure why you can't see them.  they're jpeg images.  This is likely a silly question, but you have logged in, right?  Otherwise I have no idea why you can't see the images.  Perhaps follow rdprdp01's advice and free up some machine memory (clear the cache and perhaps empty the trash, clean out the temp folder) on your machine??  And if I've made a goof, please point it out so I can post pictures correctly next time.
-tdbru

I don’t think you are doing anything wrong and it wasn’t my intention to convey that. I was trying to figure out why my setup seems to be selectively omitting images, specifically in your posts. I’m very well versed in managing a computer, network and edge environment, and I’m in the range of ~85 Gb of free memory at the moment. I was only trying to determine the image host to see if my ad block rules on my DNS server are misfiring, so to speak.
 
Lord Popgun said:
Interesting that it doesn’t switch.  Looking at the diagram the rear option connector has 2 12v lines.  One is R/G and the other is Bl/Br.  Their source is the battery to ignition switch to the fuse block and supplies all the fuses, then out to their terminations.
The headlight shell option connector uses ground G colored wire and Bl/Br for for power.  Only has 2 wires.  The option connectors are on separate fuses, fuse F and G.  Unless you are in the DLC connector (which has no R/G wire) the ignition OFF should remove power from the grips.
The 2010-2013 bikes are wired differently.
I have '14-OEM heated grips.
When the ignition is off, the h/grips are disabled.
If this were my bike, I would find the line that disables the grips when the ignition is off
 
Is it possible the previous owner (If bought used) did some wiring mods to keep the port energized all the time? Might want to do some wire tracing…
 
Thread starter
Lord Popgun,
That's a thought I hadn't considered.  I'll look.  when I traced the wires in the wiring diagram, that red/green power was ignition switched, or so it appeared to me.  the green was ground.  Perhaps the previous owner did do some switcheroos on the wires.  I'll check.  Thanks for the heads up.
-tdbru
 
I don't have heated grips, but it seems to me a really good idea to have them ignition switched.
 
Thread starter
Heated grips were nice at 6AM this morning. one gets spoiled rather quickly....
-tdbru
 
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