Finally got to actually ride it.

[Jambo_imp]

So, the story goes, traded my 2010 VFR and got the 2014 CB1100 August 1. Test ride consisted of around the block essentially, and on an artery just to put it through the paces/gears. 2 miles ridden. Just put a tag on from another Honda to get the inspection done (while I waited). 14 miles round trip. Then had to wait two weeks for my appointment with the Motor Vehicles to get registered and titled.
Bike came already with the Cozy seat, SW-MOTECH engine guards, R&G Radiator Cover, R&G Fork Sliders (not installed), clear plastic tank protector (can't even tell it is there...never saw that before), and a Puig Windscreen, all from the previous owner. The bike looks new and only 5900 miles when bought.
Since then I went hog wild and ordered a ton of stuff for it based mostly on faith and very quick ride impressions: Delkevic full exhaust and CF 14" can, PCV w/ Autotuner, Galfer SS lines front and rear, EBC HH front pads, GIVI chrome rack and trunk (47NN plus backpad, top box rack, and universal Monokey mount), K&N air filter, and some other bits.
Well, then was drowning in work that consumed my nights and weekends. So there the bike sat unrideable as I removed the stock exhaust.
So, finally was able to get the oil changed (it did not need it) and installed a FLO SS reusable filter (using car oil - see debate in another thread), and installed the GIVI trunk system (see review in another thread). And there the bike sat.
I decided to do the exhaust in stages, wanting to ensure everything was right. I first dry fit the full system (just reused the stock exhaust manifold Cu crush washers...on purpose), and just plug in the O2 sensor port. This was a fit check. Of course there was loud sound eminating from the headers connection to ports (expected), and the check engine light (expected) with no O2 connection to the stock ECU. I noticed a pretty good increase in the response of the motor uncorked, and the fueling was actually not that bad with no compensation. And yes, I also had to create a small aluminum bracket to attach the mid-pipe to the stock mount (as the Delkevic has a design flaw there). It basically is about 2: log 1" bar stock with two holes drilled 1" apart. Maybe 10-15 miles.
Lightly browned headers.
Then the bike sat.
LD weekend came and went with my nose buried in the laptop, and well as the following weekend, missing the nicest weather of the year here in MD. The bike crying out for attention with each pass by.
Finally this past weekend got up at 4:00a Saturday and worked to 8:00p, and again on Sunday too.
I was able to disassemble the exhaust completely, Cu crush this time, refit everything. I was able to extract the O2 sensor from the stock headers with some effort. What a PITA. Honda saw fit to surround it with a fairly thick heat shield that prevents a tool from getting in there to remove it. I started out with a Dremel and stone bits, but after going through three bits, I finally decided to get an old 17mm wrench and shave off width to get it in there, a couple squirts of penetration oil and wacks with a hammer and it popped free. The Delkevic comes with a welded port to accept the stock O2, which I installed. Note that the Dynojet add on to the PCV Autotuner comes with its own wide-band O2 that DOES NOT fit the stock thread, but they are nice enough to give you a bung that fits it for you to weld on yourself (yeah, right, more on that later).
I did NOT use RTV, in case I want/need to remove things for the wide-band later. The exhaust look terrific. The sound is enhanced, but not overbearing. It sounds great when you get on it.
I also drained the brake fluid from both front and rear, and installed Galfer SS lines both. I like to use these because they give you much better feel at both levers. I also cleaned up the calipers after removing them and the front wheel with brake cleaner and toothbrush, and installed EBC HH sintered pads for better stopping power and feel. I cleaned up the clips, lubed everything with hi-temp moly-graphite grease, polished the pad caliper pins (surprisingly crusty), and filled and bled with Valvolene DOT 4 full synthetic fluid. While I had the wheel off, I reinstalled with the R&G fork sliders given to me by the previous owner. Nice, but not sure I would bother if it wasn't free.
Cleaned chain and waxed with Maxima chain wax. I have a method I use for this I have to make a thread on that I think makes this unwanted chore pretty straight forward, quick, and not messy.
Installed PCV using stock O2, downloaded map (CB1100 with Yoshimura and stock air filter). Total PITA to remove the tank. Hard to reach and hard on fingertips to pinch the fuel line connector bit (on the 2014 mine has a green clip, not a white one). Took me 20 frustrating minutes to figure that one out. The guy on the Dynojet vid glosses over that and running the harness. It is a pain to fish the harness from the battery compartment to under the tank requiring some screwdrivers and leverage to create just enough room to fish them through. Otherwise installing the PCV is a cinch and just requires that inline 10-connector harness inserted and the PCV grounded to the battery negative terminal. While in there, I put in a Battery Tender cable and fished it to aft of the side cover. Tied everything off with zips.
So now after 20 hours, it is getting late, and starting to look like I might not get to ride it again. Finished up and all tools away, shower, and suited about 5:00p. Rolled out bike and guess what? It would not start! Damn! So just so happens due to time limitations, I left off the side covers and after nearly draining the battery, said to myself, what did you do wrong? It was then that I realized I failed to reconnect the injector connector. Snap, and the engine fires.
So after seven weeks of delays and wrenching, I am finally on my way.
So now, this is actually my FIRST RIDE. So I took to the back roads and had them mostly to myself. Only a scant few passes needed to own the road. Well, when overtaking, I always wave after so people don't get PO'ed.
Got the bike through the gears, redlined in safe spots, cornered hard and put the new, improved motor/exhaust through the paces.
Just saw a thread about how the CB tamed others down and found themselves going 5 under. Uhmm. I know this bike is not meant to be an open class SB, and that is not why I bought it. BUT, this bike is supremely capable, and an absolute hoot! The roar from the exhaust from 3K rpm up is intoxicating. The fueling using the PCV with that map and stock O2 is actually VERY GOOD. I think I only noted one fart on one rolloff. It did not take long for the pads to bed, and the feel was superb. The bike pulls greatly from 3K up in every gear. While it did not feel like it was threatening to wheelie, it definitely feels like at least mid-90's hp on my butt dyno. It is definitely enough to have mostly unlimited fun.
The only drawback I see, after these upgrades, is the suspension is somewhat lacking. Nothing $400 can't solve out back, but to do Gold Valves and springs in the front, what with drilling and total disassembly is a total pain! I am not as worried about the cost, which is likely going to run $3-400 in the front, it just the work required.
This bike is a keeper! I have a Superhawk, about the same hp and slightly lighter, I am selling now. This bike can give me all the fun I need. If I want to cruise, it will do they easily. If you want to get on it, it is surprisingly a capable ride. Some notable vibes in the bars, but nothing that numbed me.
I did get the autotuner, and I have yet to install the K&N. I am wondering if it needs it, and if it will ruin the otherwise very good fueling. I really don't see any significant deficiencies with the full Delkevic (left baffled), and the PCV with the Yosh map and stock O2. It has me wondering whether it is going to be worth it to put in the K&N and Autotuner. Now that the PCV is in, it does not look like too much effort to put it in, and I already own it and the K&N, but will have to see.
One other thing. I abandoned the USB port harness because the Otter RAM does not really fit the bars, and the phone would block gauge visibility. There is not much room unless I get some kind of tower. I will have to investigate that.
Overall, I am very happy with this bike. It might look old school, but it has a very modern feel injected and all the power you need for the street. Once underway, the pork dissipates in typical Honda fashion. I am glad I got this bike!
Anyway, hope you liked my first ride report. It was a long time in coming. On abandoned back roads, I was in heaven to really be able to finally ride the bike.

 

[peterbaron]

Yeah...but kind of lengthy...mostly about mods, etc
Are you going to beat MM bike #93
:beerchug:

 

[Jambo_imp]

Yeah...but kind of lengthy...mostly about mods, etc
Are you going to beat MM bike #93
:beerchug:

Don't get the reference.
Yeah, long post mostly about mods, but that was what kept me from riding plus too much work to be able to do them.
Hope it entertained you for the 3 minute read...

 

[peterbaron]

:rofl:, yes you did

 

[pekingduck]

Jambo, nice work. One thing I noticed was the O2 sensor - you have to be very careful not to touch anything but the nut and the wire, or oils in your fingers could contaminate it. Also, only an Anti-Seize paste (or a specific O2 sensor lubricant should be used on the threads.

 

[Houtman_imp]

A nice report but I think that you went trough a lot of "pain " to get what you wanted , hopefully you will be happy with all the result for a long ride/time.

 

[Lord Popgun]

Paragraphs. They’re a thing.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

Always wanted to try a VTR

 

[Cormanus]

Good to hear you finally got on the bike, Jambo. After all that effort, it's just as well you really liked it.

 

[Jambo_imp]

Jambo, nice work. One thing I noticed was the O2 sensor - you have to be very careful not to touch anything but the nut and the wire, or oils in your fingers could contaminate it. Also, only an Anti-Seize paste (or a specific O2 sensor lubricant should be used on the threads.

Peking,
Should have thought of that. I did wipe the soot off the O2 sensor and probably with my fingers too. I know it is always best to wipe off halogen bulbs or tubes for amps so the oil doesn't create hot spots that can damage them. Did not consider that. I did not use anti-seize either. You got me wondering if I should pull the mid-pipe and clean it and put it back with anti-seize. It would not take long to do. Can you clean the sensor with IPA? The anti-seize also probably makes sense. The sensor is on top with the backshell facing up, and SS will rust too. I did not use teflon tape either and wonder if I should to keep moisture out of the threads. I bet those sensors are $100.
Again I am wondering if the Autotune and K&N is really needed. Putting on the K&N is likely going to lean it further where you would need the tuner then. I will put the K&N in and see how it is, and you could tweak some setting richer to compensate, but there are so many that would be total hit or miss and likely to mess up the map. The K&N can be taken back out. I have a friend who is a professional welder. My welding sucks and I would likely ruin the nice mid-pipe. I am also wondering if the right way to do that is to drill a hole next to the existing sensor enlargening as I go until the wideband sensor bung fits in there, and then take it to my friend to do a proper job, and just cap off the stock O2 with the supplied plug.
I studied the tuner directions and do not think it would take any time to install that part. The real time will come from the computer learning, downloading, uploading, and repeating that iteratively.

A nice report but I think that you went trough a lot of "pain " to get what you wanted , hopefully you will be happy with all the result for a long ride/time.

True, but not unusual. I also expected it. Even on my quick ride, and coupled with this Forum I took too reading and studying some (big help) about peoples experience with the exhaust mods and the gains achieved. The CB1100 makes a nice platform for mods. Sure it is not bad stock. But, for the unheard of price for the full Delkevic and the surprising quality, it is really hard to beat. That CF pipe is hardly retro, but on the black/chrome scheme, it really looks good. The Delkevic system is an incredible value. The gains achieved are unusually high. Most slip ons or even full systems don't generally result in much more than 3-4% hp gains, with manufacturers gains to be taken skeptically. To get what feels like 15% is unusual, and the quality of the kit is very high. Not unusual to pay $3-400 for just a can.
It really wasn't that much pain. What was painful was taking the exhaust off before it was even registered, and then getting consumed in work while the best weather zipped by.

Always wanted to try a VTR

I love the V-twins as much as the inline fours, having had a Hawk GT, RC51, SV1000S, and TLR1000, and even a VTR250. A whole bunch of vertical twins too. I love the baritone sound. The VTR is underrated. The is a lot of value there and fun/cost ratio. I think the look is timeless too with great lines you don't tire of looking at. For a 17 yo bike, only the old style single large trapezoid headlight lens looks dated. The suspension is not the best, and I don't love the rearsets, but it is a terrific all around street sport.

A nice report but I think that you went trough a lot of "pain " to get what you wanted , hopefully you will be happy with all the result for a long ride/time.

One more reply to your reply. I pretty much knew what I was getting. If you consider I got the bike that really looked cherry, had already $700 in usable mods, and for only $5700, that left money in the budget for improvements. The previous owner clearly took impeccable care of it.

This will probably spin people up, and perhaps mistakenly lead people to believe I might have been thinking I was getting something I wasn't. I knew what this bike was and who it targeted. I had a GS1000e that had a ton of mods it reminds me of, only the CB is just worlds way better and modern/retro. But in this day and considering what Honda can do with a 1000cc inline four, getting 75-80 hp out of it is kind of pathetic (let the gasps begin), "tuned for torque" and all. Clearly Honda did not set out to cannibalize their CBR with this. It was meant to honor the heralded 750, and to appeal to nostalgic geezers (more gasps). BTW, I am one of them and part of the target. But for not that much money, adding another 10-15 hp and another boost to the torque turns this machine into a real sleeper.
Cue up all the responses that I bought the wrong bike....
I don't think so. I sold the VFR because it was simply too much. I am of the opinion that 160-180 hp is too much for the street in that weight class. But 100 hp and around 70 lb-ft is like Goldilocks.

 

[Cormanus]

Jambo, by all means try, but you'll not get much argument here that the CB1100 set out largely to appeal to geezers. The seat-of-the-pants dyno is all very interesting, but do you intend to take it to one of the floor-mounted, calibrated variety and see what HP improvement you really achieved? A couple of members—PowerDubs and beardyweirdy have got close to 100 hp, but they've had to work very hard for it.

 

[Jambo_imp]

Jambo, by all means try, but you'll not get much argument here that the CB1100 set out largely to appeal to geezers. The seat-of-the-pants dyno is all very interesting, but do you intend to take it to one of the floor-mounted, calibrated variety and see what HP improvement you really achieved? A couple of members—PowerDubs and beardyweirdy have got close to 100 hp, but they've had to work very hard for it.

That is a very good question that I have thought very much about. Jambo got lots of opinions (you are concluding), and this is one of them. In recent history, disregard what the aftermarket exhaust manufacturers says about merely purchasing their product, and it requiring no dyno tuning as the stock ECU will take care of it. They don't want every purchase of their expensive product to come with an analysis by the buyer of the factor of the cost of a fuel module, or they have less sales.
By the nature of the bike manufacturers being an easy target of the EPA (without the muscle like the auto industry has), the bike already comes fueled very lean from the factory. While that is good for emissions, it is not good for longevity of the motor. A lean motor is a hot motor. Getting an aftermarket slip-on or full exhaust (especially if adding the K&N), must include dyno runs, and a PC type device to compensate for the A/F ratios or the rider risks poor running, less performance gain, and long term affects to the longevity of the motor. That was my justifiable past thinking. Case in point was my Superhawk. That bike was carbureted, and took many pulls of the tank, airbox, and carbs to get the settings right for the full exhaust and K&N I bought. Pull tank/box/carb, make adjustments to the needles and mains, reassemble, and run on dyno. Only to discover due to the overlapping affects of the needles and jets, that you squeezed the balloon too much one way or another. Rinse and repeat.
NOW, and especially with a popular bike, Dynojet mostly has maps that will closely mimic your choice of add-ons. I still think the farther you stray from stock, from just a slip-on, to full system, to adding a K&N, you must at least have the PCV to compensate A/F. And in the past, it made sense to dyno that and make map adjustments to the PC according to the crucial information acquired from the run.
NOW the PCs are pretty good and have lots of maps. I was skeptical that the CB1100+Yosh (and stock air) map would get it close. I was wrong. And NOW, you have the Autotuner, giving the capable purchaser the ability to "teach" the mapper to map correctly using the wideband sensor. That learning occurs over all rpms, gears, and throttle positions. That crucial information was only previously available by putting the bike on the dyno and running it up through the gears getting A/F ratios along the way, and changing them as needed. NOW the Autotuner does this w/o the dyno.
The actual need to use the dyno run as the informer to the tuner and fuel manager (computer) has been largely reduced. This relegates the dyno run to information for the interested reader, IMO.
I really don't care what the actual number is, or that I wring the absolute most out of this motor it is capable of producing.
My goals are:
1) make sure the bike is running optimally, with no stumbles, hiccups, or non-linear characteristics
2) gain satisfactory performance.

Judging by my short, but very comprehensive first ride, I have achieved both. It really doesn't matter to me what the actual number is, though it makes an interesting graph for my CB1100 folder and provides the ability to discuss it quantitatively. My butt dyno tells me the bike makes plenty of hp and really doesn't NEED more.

I am still am skeptical that my PCV (alone) map will be good by itself if I further lean the bikes A/F with the K&N. I will try it. If my goal #1 suffers, I can take it out, OR weld on the wideband and tune the PCV through real-world learning. I am also not a stranger to making airbox mods and can cut holes in it. Stuff LIKE THAT though, really does benefit from dyno runs. I got surprising results turning my HawkGT air box into a sieve a little at a time (did not improve followed by duct tape over holes and more dyno runs). Alternatively, I could install the Autotuner and see what it does with the stock O2. I can always revert back to a previously better map (#1) if needed.

Outside of exhaust, PCV, Autotuner, and air filter and box mods, what other substantial work required achieving the hp ton? Did they do cams and compression ratios? I have no desire to do any of that. The bike does not need that IMO. If it was just exhaust, filter, box and fuel management, that is not a huge effort.

With the Autotuner, the actual need and requirement to put the bike on the dyno has lessened greatly. I should be able to tell if the bike runs smoothly.

 

[Jambo_imp]

Follow on to first ride (post-mods) impression. Last Wednesday with a forecast having the thermometer glancing 80, I played hooky from work after morning meetings and took off. After many rides of scouring the landscape for fun and interesting roads, I have developed a "circuit" that takes me through mostly back roads by farms and outlying suburbia meandering north, with alternate roads back. Lots of switchbacks, long sweepers with decreasing/increasing radii, tight turns, and narrow and some not-so-well paved back roads. I spent a couple hours on the bike doing this circuit that is about 90 miles. Since it was mid-week afternoon, I had the roads mostly to myself to play. I tried to work on my smoothness of controls, while still somewhat pushing the bike. I definitely confirmed two things I observed in the first ride:
1) The fueling and setup with the Delkevic and PCV really is pretty good as it is.
2) The suspension is fairly lacking.

Still wondering if the bike will benefit or lose through the addition of the K&N, and that will "force" me to need to employ the Autotuner. Pulling the mid-pipe and welding on the WB O2 sensor is a pain. Then it is the whole investment of ride/tune until satisfied. I said last time the CB was in no danger of lofting the front wheel. Wrong! Getting hard on the gas, bike upright in first gear, I actually felt it start to lift the wheel. It might have been 5-6K rpms. That was surprising, and it was not like I was attempting that. There is plenty of thrust to this motor. I still guess I am in the mid-nineties hp wise. In any gear from 3K up, a roll on of the throttle is met with instant thrust. Honda tuning this motor "for torque", coupled with uncorking results in a very snappy and fun response. No dead spots are noticeable.

After the ride, and with the weather so nice, I decided to resist the urge to get back on the laptop to address the overbearing work, and just sat outside on the deck with the CB1100 manual in hand. I need to order the Helm for sure. When I was doing the work and side panels off, I was looking aft of the box wondering how the K&N goes in. Looking at the wrong side dummy! Just inserting that looks easy as it should be. I think I will install that, leaving the full Delkevic with stock O2 in place, mapped with the CB1100 +Yosh "standard" map in place and do a ride like that, and report back. I kind of like making smaller changes at a time, as opposed to the wholesale stock exhaust + PCV swap I actually did. Then evaluate the next steps. If it seems to lean things, I will have to arrange to pull the mid-pipe and take the bung for a weld.
Question: Has anyone done this with the Delkevic yet? My thoughts are to leave the factory welded bung as is to retain the ability to plug the stock O2, and install the Delkevic provided brass plug into it, and drilling a new hole near it to accommodate the WB O2 provided with the Dynojet Autotuner module. I figure pilot holes followed by stepping up bits until getting the desired diameter for the bung is needed. Then I could do some back and forth as desired. That whole thing is anticipated to be a real pain.

As to the suspension. Some of the roads on my "circuit" have a lot of poorly done patching and rough surfaces. I am 180 lbs suited, and I have the rear shocks fully out with PL, and the front on line three. I was thinking of putting the front full out (soft) and seeing what change there is. The stock suspension under spirited riding on those surfaces pounds you. I am not sure if it is because there is not enough travel (and why I want to try full soft), or it is generally lacking in fast enough rebound. I am wondering if simple viscosity changes make any difference and what people have tried. I need to endeavor to search the threads here to see what there is to learn from what others have tried. I am not looking forward to disassembling the forks. For a long-term keeper though, I feel it definitely needs some improvement. I am also wondering if significant improvements are made with just addressing only the rear as that is low-hanging fruit effort wise. The Ohlins are way expensive. Of course I would love the fully adjustable, but $1500 is pretty steep. The Ikons are more reasonable, and I read the rear suspension thread. Not sure if the issue is mostly front, rear, or both.

 

[Bheezy27403_imp]

Both. I put Ikon's on the back that helped immensely and added a couple turns of preload on the front which helped a little. The front is still soft but better.

 

[PowerDubs_imp]

I’m at 100whp and 72wtq on the dyno with stock ECU, so neutered ign timing and redline. Could have used a little more fuel.

I then put the Guhls ecu in and crashed the bike on the first ride afterward - only a few miles from my house.

Bikes fixed- I just haven’t been back out on it yet. Need to re-register and insure.

Should make better numbers now.

Also have Ikon rear shocks and ‘17 DBV forks. Both are excellent.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[peterbaron]

Well Josh, congrats and nice to hear about your return.
Stay safe and we anticipate further reports.
Good luck

 

[Jambo_imp]

I’m at 100whp and 72wtq on the dyno with stock ECU, so neutered ign timing and redline. Could have used a little more fuel.

I then put the Guhls ecu in and crashed the bike on the first ride afterward - only a few miles from my house.

Bikes fixed- I just haven’t been back out on it yet. Need to re-register and insure.

Should make better numbers now.

Also have Ikon rear shocks and ‘17 DBV forks. Both are excellent.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Which Ikons did you get? I wrote them complaining that their website provides little information on the differences between 7610 and 7614. Also where is the spring rate chart? They responded telling me a few more specs and that they are revamping their web presence. It appears for the extra 50%, you get more PL instability and gas charging. They said the springs are chosen at checkout. I am giving thought to the 7614's. The DBV is the Delux?
Can you summarize what were the total mods done?

Both. I put Ikon's on the back that helped immensely and added a couple turns of preload on the front which helped a little. The front is still soft but better.

Did you change springs or fork oil?
UPDATE: Put in the K&N Air Filter in the Air Box today. No mods to the box. I did wash out the snout and dry it. The K&N comes pre-oiled. I was not sure as it does not feel greasy, so I called them to confirm that was the case (it was) before I sprayed more K&N filter oil (I already had) on it.
I was wondering if the installation of the K&N AF was going to lean it out to the point where I would notice fueling issues after installation. It did not. BTW the stock air filter looks to have about the same surface area as the K&N and was pretty clean. If there is any additional flow at all, I think it is not much, therefore if you want the K&N, then I say you are buying it just for the re-usability. Went for an hour ride on back roads and had them mostly to myself. The performance was the same and am happy to say that the filter addition does not seem to make a material difference in the quality of the fueling. I did not notice any hesitation or backfiring on down-shifting (of which I did a lot). I did not notice any performance improvement, or if there was any, it was subtle enough that it was unnoticeable to me. Everything from cruising at almost idle in 6th, to the redline seemed pretty much spot on to me (still).

To recap (in terms of engine performance, I did the following:
1) Full Delkevic with 14" CF canister with the baffle intact (not removed)
2) Stock O2 sensor scavenged from stock exhaust system
3) PCV with downloaded map of CB1100 + full Yoshimura pipe and stock air filter
4) K&N Air Filter

I had to make that 1" bracket to move the Delkevic "stock" mounting location back to the frame mounting location to ensure the exhaust is tight (which makes their mount about 1" forward of the stock mount. I did not use the RTV and do not hear any exhaust leakage. The provided pipe rings/gaskets in combination with the beefy exhaust clamps firmly snugged seem to make a good seal, making the use of the provided RTV not needed.

I bought the companion Dynojet Autotuner with the PCV, but have not yet installed it. I will likely leave that mod to the Spring, especially since I have to hack and weld my mid-pipe in order to the use the Wideband O2 sensor the AT came with, but I don't think it is necessary. At least with #1-4 mods performed above. The fueling is good everywhere as it stands, and I may leave well enough alone or just put it in to play with it with my copious amounts of spare time, since it is paid for already. Knowing what I know now, I would not have purchased the AT for MY application, and I think the money would have been better spent on the Ikons. It would be nice if Progressive made a unit that fits the CB1100, as it would have been likely more affordable.

The Delkevic full system is surprisingly affordably priced for what you get. The stainless steel looks high quality, and is a good kit down to the details like quality clamps and hardware. They have already turned a nice mellow golden brown hue with only 200 miles. The exhaust note is also quite pleasing, especially getting on it, and it sounds very bassy and throaty. Almost like a twin in terms of low frequency (with an obvious inline four sound). The CF can looks great with the black frame and black color scheme of the bike on mine. I don't think I will take the baffle out, as it doesn't need to be removed, need any louder sound, or more hp and freer flow.

At this point, I am also unlikely to do the Guhls ECU (not saying there is anything wrong with that if you did so), as IMHO I don't think the bike needs it. The improvement in hp and torque with #1-4 alone has provided a larger than typical increase in performance over stock than you normally get from an exhaust replacement. The Guhls may ditch the premature rev limiter, but I don't think that matters much. I ride fairly aggressively, but I find myself shifting in advance of the limiter anyway, just bouncing off it because I could, not because I needed to. The bike pulls very strongly without hesitation in any of the first 5 gears, in almost any rpm as it is. I am pretty happy with the results so far, and if there was any performance improvement through the use of the AT, then that would just be icing on the cake to me. The current hp the bike makes is already enough to overwhelm the traction of the less than stellar tires (mine are new) with their less than optimum sizing (compare to supersports). The bike already feels like it wants to loft the front wheel as it is.

I will probably not dyno it as it does not feel like it needs to be to resolve any fueling issue, and I don't think knowing how much hp it makes is that relevant (to me), even though I have a friend who has a DJ dyno and does not charge much (lives 2 hr roundtrip though).

I also don't think I am going to bother doing any air box modifications, as I don't think it needs that either.

I am happy with the performance I now have with the CB.

 

[Cormanus]

Good work, Jambo.

 

[Jambo_imp]

One more thing I forgot. After initially doing the (final) exhaust installation, I refueled. After my second ride, and over the course of about 150 hard ridden miles, with nearly WOT in every gear/everywhere, I got some more fuel and took note of my Trip B meter (I reserve T-A for oil change interval) and receipt, and calculated mileage. It came in at a very respectable 38 mpg considering the modifications. I think I would need to do this a few more times to average out the error in fill volume to get a more accurate reading. That yields a usable range from my 2014 smallish 4 gallon tank. This is not to say it is stellar. My '17 Honda Civic gets that.

By comparison, my Superhawk with full exhaust, K&N and Stage 3 jet kit devolved to only 25! Think about the fact that on that bike I could legally use the High Occupancy Vehicle reserve commuter lanes, and the fact that the Prius next to me could run off the gas the SH farts out the pipe. Also, you have to fuel up way too often and see a perpetual blinking/conservative gas gauge, which is a PITA or constantly worry you will run out.

If I was short shifting and riding conservatively, I am sure it would have been more like 50 mpg. Since it is pretty good, I see no need to manually adjust OD F/A ratios for mileage purposes.