Reviving an old thread, first I have to say this thread is really helpful. When I have been reading about the various case guards to buy for my new EX, others have wondered why the SW Motech guards came with the 2 long bolts and they have dismissed them as unnecessary and they have just reused the stock bolts. It's great that 2017EX asked and got the answer. Beyond that, my case guards were delivered today so they will go on tonight after work. I did loosen the mounting bolts this morning and the left downtube nuts were staggeringly tight. So tight that it took an extended breaker bar to loosen them. I definitely recommend not using a 12 point socket on these if yours are also this tight. Way tighter than the recommended 36 ft/lbs. In contrast, the right downtube mount nuts were probably tightened from the factory to spec. The longer single bolt nuts also felt about in spec which is 44 ft/lbs.
Engine mount bolt torque value
- Thread starter TCinNC_imp
- Start date
Houtman_imp
Road warrior
Loosen the nuts , not the bolts .
2017EX_imp
Been there
Apex1, Glad the post was of help. I have no doubt you will be very pleased with the SW Motech bars. I always use 6 point sockets and wrenches for everything I do on my bikes, unless there is some unforeseen and compelling reason to use 12 points.
Any suggestions on how to remove the bolt and nut which are on the frame tube? When I try loosening the nut it just rotates on the bolt - I'm suspecting that the threads on the nut are shot.
I'm trying to install the sw-motech guards and am not able to take this one bolt and nut off.
I'm trying to install the sw-motech guards and am not able to take this one bolt and nut off.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
As Ben is saying, the proper way to remove the bolt is to hold the bolt head with one wrench or socket and use another on the nut. Hold bolt steady and turn the nut.
Or are you doing that and the nut is just spinning but not coming off?
Or are you doing that and the nut is just spinning but not coming off?
PowerDubs_imp
Road warrior
Agreed- but odd.
I feel something else is going on here.
I'm not in front of my bike- but are you sure your socket sizes are correct and not stripped / worn internally?
I don't remember on the CB (but will be replacing my damaged Motech soon)- but remember not all nuts/bolts are the same size on both ends. Example- I was just working on my car and it took an 18mm on one end and a 17mm on the other.
I feel something else is going on here.
I'm not in front of my bike- but are you sure your socket sizes are correct and not stripped / worn internally?
I don't remember on the CB (but will be replacing my damaged Motech soon)- but remember not all nuts/bolts are the same size on both ends. Example- I was just working on my car and it took an 18mm on one end and a 17mm on the other.
Quite sure, I've got the correct size sockets and spanners. I see the portion of the bolt past the nut rotating.PowerDubs_imp said:
Don't know if I have the space for a nut splitter - this one is behind the exhaust pipes on the rear brake pedal side.
Also, it is a flange nut - would the nut splitter work on it?
Inhouse Bob
Road warrior
I'll send my high school girlfriend right over :angel:Ben70_imp said:
I used the nut splitter. It did split the nut, but the flange wasn't split. Finally ended up gingerly drilling the flange out. Not sure if a dremel would have worked - since this was on the rear brake lever side, the exhaust pipes make access tricky.
Took me more than 4 hours and I was kneeling all the time - legs were numb for quite some time after that. Started feverishly searching for motorcycle lifts after that - but that fever has died down now.
apex1_imp said:
the Ferret
Road warrior
I think it's just oxidation. I'd wire brush it off and put some grease on them.
Lord Popgun
Road warrior
What Ferret said. Clean off the oxidation and that grease certainly wouldn’t hurt.
Houtman_imp
Road warrior
Yes, they use fish oil for a healthier bolt life.
