Drain Plug New Oil Seal

[The Spaceman_imp]

Ok, I'll be the one to pit it out there this time....why wait another 4-5 pages for someone to do it.

A friend of mine put 150000 miles on his wing with no washer at all and never had a problem.

YMMV

And I'll put this out here on Page 3 for the other side of the issue:

I've had 2 30+ year motorcycle mechanics (1 a Honda, 1 a Suzuki specialist) tell me to ALWAYS use a new washer. I have to believe they know what they're talking about.

Using a new crush washer is recommended because it allows you to seal the drain bolt with the low torque specification called for in the manual, and without stretching the bolt. Stripping the threads on a drain plug hole sucks.

The part number is 94109-1400. They're about $1 each and you can buy them here:

Amazon.com: Honda 94109-14000 Oil Drain Plug Gasket Pack of 50 : Automotive

When it's that easy and that cheap, and the manual and experts advise it, why wouldn't you do it?

 

[Short Timer_imp]

I think one of the benefits of a crush washer in addition to compressing slightly to provide a seal, is that it prevents any over tightening from stressing and stripping the threads of the drain hole. Once it "loses" it's ability to compress down it makes it more likely that a little extra torque now and then will eventually lead to stripped threads and an expensive fix.

That education was provided to me many moons ago courtesy of a service department that was replacing the oil pan on my car after my regular oil change shop, after a number of oil changes and a reused-overly crushed-crush washer, stripped the drain hole threads. And it never leaked - the threads just simply gave out as the drain plug was removed on the last oil change.

With all the debate about oils and filters, why risk the whole process over a .30 piece of aluminum?

Why? Because by your own story you related there is no risk of a leak! And no one really thinks about the possibility of ruining the threads.

Why? Because by your own story you related there is no risk of a leak! And no one really thinks about the possibility of ruining the threads.
You might not know you're going to have a problem (no leak) until you remove the drain bolt one time and find stripped threads. And it ain't gonna go back in once that happens. As someone has already pointed out, you can choose not to use a crush washer at all and never have a leak. But you just might have a thread problem over time if you or your mechanic ever put a little too much oomph into tightening the drain plug.

Do what makes ya happy. It's your money.

 

[redbirds_imp]

Using a new crush washer on the new Triumph triples is very important. The metal around the drain plug is very thin on these engines and a new washer allows you to apply the right amount of torque without cracking the oil pan. The Tiger 1050 forum has many threads about cracked oil pans caused by applying to much force on the drain plug when using the old washer. Fortunately the CB has more metal in the area around the drain plug but I feel better using a new washer each time.

 

[SanPete_imp]

Did anybody open the link to amazon in the spaceman's post? If you read the reviews those guys are having the same argument. Same crowd I suppose.

 

[The Spaceman_imp]

Ok, I'll confess: after 4 years and about 60k miles, changing the oil about every 5k, I stripped the drain on my DL1000. I tightened up as usual, the bolt head hit the pan, and it kept turning. Suzuki carefully engineered the cases so that a Helicoil could not be used. Thankfully the mechanic at Riva found a way to thread the hole so a weird bolt he found would seal. I used a second drain from then on till I sold it.

If it hadn't been for that genius mechanic I'd have been looking at $2k for parts and labor.

 

[meowguy_imp]

This thread is just like any thread about motor oil. What the heck is so difficult about following the manufacturers directions? Change the washer every oil change. Stop making excuses for not doing it.

 

[ClassicVW_imp]

Not making excuses, just saying that at one time or another I've reused those washers on just about every car and motorcycle I've owned since 1970.

Manufacturers tell us lots of things that are intended to either cover their butts or increase their profits.

 

[OldF7Guy_imp]

Not making excuses, just saying that at one time or another I've reused those washers on just about every car and motorcycle I've owned since 1970.

Manufacturers tell us lots of things that are intended to either cover their butts or increase their profits.

+1 million

 

[flynrider]

I have reused the washer many, many times on my bikes before replacing it - probably at least six reuses, and the engine has never leaked a drop.

My CB750 still has its original washer at 43K miles. I inspect it at every oil change and it always looks good. If it ever looks deformed or leaks, I'll replace it. Until then, why bother?

Note : One thing I'm very cautious about is not over torquing the drain plug, which likely keeps the washer from deforming. I helped a friend replace his pan once after he got a little carried away while tightening the plug. Not fun.

 

[Firstfour_imp]

I have reused the washer many, many times on my bikes before replacing it - probably at least six reuses, and the engine has never leaked a drop.

My CB750 still has its original washer at 43K miles. I inspect it at every oil change and it always looks good. If it ever looks deformed or leaks, I'll replace it. Until then, why bother?

Note : One thing I'm very cautious about is not over torquing the drain plug, which likely keeps the washer from deforming. I helped a friend replace his pan once after he got a little carried away while tightening the plug. Not fun.

Because it is a 50 cent piece. Negligible in relation to the entirety. Why not just replace the darn thing, rather than hope for no trouble? Seems penny wise... I'll cough it up.

And to each their own, of course.

 

[ClassicVW_imp]

Sometimes you forget to get one when you get the oil and filter, and only realize it when you are back home and already started to oil change. Not every parts counter guy includes whether it's free or not it if you don't ask for it.

 

[DAC]

If you're ever going to undertorque something, it should be the drain plug. In factory finish, the '14 DLX crush washer had almost no discernable indentation and the drain bolt spun off fairly easily. Re-used the washer, moderately hand tightened the bolt and replaced the washer next time. Check the oil level frequently. I've got a supply of a half dozen or so of those washers so it doesn't hurt to change 'em whenever the the feeling is it's needed.