This is how I do by using synthetic DOT4 brake fluid for clutch and brake hydraulic circuits. I use suction machine as well.
Also, have ready some water to clean and rinse in case if one spills brake fluid >> corrosive and eats paint.
Before flushing, I always suck out the old fluid including sediment/black stuff, then filled up reservoirs and suck out again, now it's clean and ready for flushing. Engine and ignition OFF.
Providing there are no leaks and fluids were at the proper working levels*, I start sucking/bleeders crack open, the LF caliper then the RF while topping up the brake reservoir at least a few time, to ensure particular circuit received sufficient and fresh fluid flush.
Then, I continue flushing while pumping brake lever, LF>>RF caliper.
Final step and performance test: pump up brake lever a few times until "solid" then crack open and close bleeders, repeat 2-3 times. Test brake lever, cannot be spungee/soft when flushing is completed. Fluids are not compressible but perfect to transfer motion.
Very important with brakes: adjust reservoir fluid level to its pre-flushing stage* cos fluid level will very in accordance to pads wear, thinner pads = lower fluid level, new pads = level is at its max.
Similar procedure with the rear brake.
Clutch similar procedure, except "solid" stage and leave fluid level at its allowable max.
When completed, mandatory road test to check brake and clutch performance.
Before flushing - black colour
After flushing- light brown colour
These pics were taken when I did my white standard.
Soon will do my DLX.
